Chuck

The NRG is excited to launch our latest program focusing on advancing the art of ship modeling through research.  The Ship Model Grant Program was developed to provide ship modelers of all levels easy access to fully developed modeling projects.  We are seeking NRG members who can develop a thoroughly researched set of plans and accompanying monograph for smaller vessels and projects.  The details of the Grant program are provided below.   After work has been completed for all of the materials, the NRG will print the plans and offer them to ship modeling community at large.  The accompanying monograph will be produced in electronic format and supplied as a CD along with the plans.

To kick off the program, the NRG has selected the first project.  This first NRG Monograph will contain the plans for a plank-on-bulkhead model of the Hudson River Sloop “First Effort” built in 1830 (pictured above).  We have selected this project to set a standard for the size and scope of the projects intended for Grant program.  If you are an NRG member who would like to work with the NRG to develop other projects like this, read the details below and submit a proposal.  Should you have any questions about the program please contact Chuck Passaro at cpassaro@verizon.net.  The NRG Grant Program rules and details can also be downloaded from our website.  Visit www.thenrg.org today.

The NRG Ship Model Project Grant Program

Request for Proposals: The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is issuing a request for proposals for consideration of funding projects which advance the art of ship modeling through research.

Eligibility:  The Nautical Research Guild Grant Program is open to NRG members only.

Project Description:   The NRG will award $750 to $2500 for individual projects that provide original research and plans for small ship modeling projects.  In addition, up to 10% of each sale will be awarded for the exclusive rights to publish and sell the completed published work in either print or electronic format.  Grant amounts will be determined by the NRG Board of Directors based on the size and scope of the accepted proposal.  Finished monographs and plans will be offered and branded by the NRG and copyrights will be maintained by the NRG.  All credit will be given to the author.

Each project proposed must be model ship related with research obtained from primary or secondary sources. Projects are to be for scratch built/semi-scratch built models.  Monographs must contain a section on history and research as well as a “how-to” for the model builder.  The monograph must also be accompanied with a set of plans to allow building of the project, produced electronically with the intention of being printed by the NRG for sale.

Project Specifications:

Plank on bulkhead, plank on frame, and solid hull are all acceptable building methods.

Other building methods will be reviewed by the Board for appropriateness.

The recipient must include plans to build the model and a corresponding monograph of 70 to 100 pages depending on the scope of the subject matter, with bibliography of all sources used.

Preference will be given to smaller projects: For example small cutters, launches, brigs, sloops, tugs, cross section models, battle stations, dioramas etc.  The NRG is NOT looking for larger vessels such as frigates, ship of the line, battleships etc.

Projects should take the average builder between 3 to 8 months to complete.

Projects can be directed toward the beginner, intermediate or advanced ship

modelers.

The monograph must be delivered in MS word format and the plans delivered in PDF format.

Grant awards will be administered in installments with the dates and amounts of payment determined by the NRG, and final payment being made upon delivery and review of the project by the NRG Board.

The NRG reserves the right to stop further payments and advancement of the project upon assessing the author’s progress.

Failure to complete the project in a timely manner may result in the cancellation of the project by the Board without further payment.

All proposals must be sent to :  Nautical Research Guild, 237 S Lincoln St, Westmont, IL 60559 or by email to info@thenauticalresearchguild.org

Information Required at the Time of Submission:

Proposal must include applicant Name, Address, Phone and E-Mail address.

Project Abstract:  Applicants must submit an abstract of less than 200 words describing the proposed project, including what level of builder it will be directed towards. Identify how it will enhance the knowledge and skill of the model builder.

Approach: List all equipment and materials required to complete the project.

Milestone Schedule: An activity schedule should be submitted for the duration of your research for project delivery.  Starting with month one and concluding with the project delivery date.  Expect to give the Board frequent updates based on this schedule (i.e. monthly, quarterly etc.)  Grant projects must NOT take the applicant longer than 14 months to complete once accepted.

Cost Summary: Detail all costs to be incurred for the project up to its delivery, including but not limited to equipment purchases, materials, information technology needs and software, travel, and research.  Prepare your budget carefully and make it as detailed as possible. 

Looking very nice.  I just made a batch of 1.5 MM blocks...Special order for a buddy of mine.  Thank god I didnt have to make that many.

Chuck

Go to my site...

http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/miniature-rope.php

Here you will see all of the sizes.

Thanks

See you there.....I just hope Fort Sumpter opens up before the Conference.   

Chuck

Thanks.  I will eventually carry both the gray and the brown in addition to the black.  It seems as though it is a personal preference thing.   Thats fine with me.    Anyone who wishes something that they dont see.  Dont hesitate to contact me.

Chuck

I have only had reason to cut 1/32" thick planks.   I usually use thicker planks on a model and scrape and sand them in place.

Chuck

Thank you gentlemen!!!  

I will be be away next week at the NRG conference so I am afraid I probably wont be as responsive next week.  I really appreciate the support and business.  I am now experimenting with possible ways to make deadeyes as well.  It may fail miserably but what the heck.  I get all kinds of crazy ideas that pop into my head at night.  Drives my wife crazy.

Chuck

Thinner blades will bend and warp and cause deflection as the saw works its way through the sheet.  This creates an inconsistent thickness when you cut your planks.  I only use thin blades like that when cutting sheets that are 1/32" thick or 1/16" thick.  For all thicker sheets I will go up to a .032 blade kerf.  Yes... you do loose some wood with each cut but you will have fewer bad planks and it ends up being a wash.  It is also super important to make sure you have a squared up sheet before you start.  If the edge that is against the fence is a little wavy initially,  it will take several cuts to even it out.

Chuck

I wish I could...I usually buy whatever I can find on EBAY cheaply.   I dont remember the brands off-hand.  If after it is shipped, I dont like th e look of it.....I usually give it to my fishing buddies.

I think Ed Tosti uses a particular brand if I remember correctly.  You may want to reach out to him or do a search of his build log of the 1:60 HMS Naiad 1797

The stuff he uses looks really nice.

Chuck

Looks great....Before you add the lintels...make sure you fill any cracks between the sills and the bulkheads.  Its easier to do that now.  Sand them smooth as if preparing them for paint now.  the lintels will make it harder as your space is limited even with a good sanding stick.  With the lintels...its not as crucial to fill the gaps so precisely as it will be on the underside and not seen.  But that doesnt mean you shouldnt give it a shot.

Chuck

Folks have had great success with fly fishing line and surgical suture line although the later is quite expensive.

First you must determine with certainty if the plans are scaled properly.  It could be that the printed plans are in correct and the parts are fine.

Chuck

Thats great news.  Let me know how I can help with that.

Very nice work and attention detail my friend. 

The issue with most major large MFG's is that they cant find folks to design them,   They take a long time to laser cut all of the extra parts.  Laser time is expensive.   Then based on the price point for the kit there would probably be fewer sales.  Even if all of the parts are laser cut it will be an advanced level kit for a small percentage of the market.  Most POF builders want to use better wood as well.  For folks at that level in the hobby,  most will want to scratch build it all.  It doesnt leave much of a market except for smaller subjects.

But like Don said,  there are a few out there and they make wonderful models.

I dont see too many more coming from other mainstream MFGs though.  If anything,  the smaller boutique MFGs might come out with more like the Lumberyard.  Lets hope so.  

Chuck

That came out just wonderful.   Makes a really nice give,  very nice presentation!!!

What are you building?  And thanks in advance.

Does your kit have a parts list that inventories the amount of rope supplied?

Thats the first place to start.  

Chuck

There are many way to do this...I just described the one that I use.  I find it easier to fair a bit before gluing.  Especially when you have the angles pre-determined somewhat.  Then do the last bit once the are glued into position.  I find it easier to do when I can hold the bulkheads in my hand to tweak them.   But it is of course no the only way.   I dont think anyone should read a "how-to" and feek it is the only way.  Just one written example of how one person did it.  You should always try the method that is most comfortable for you.

Chuck

Very very nice.    I am really enjoying your progress 

There are too many contemporary models that show this feature for it to be incorrect.  In fact,  You would be hard pressedto find any where the the horse goes over the tiller.  I have only seen one..  The way I understand it,  this is the way they did it up to around 1780.   And after that they switched to make the horse go over the tiller.  Prior to that it was done both ways.  

It is odd but I find it hard to believe every contemporary model is incorrect.

Thank you very much...I will certainly add it to the database as well.

Chuck

It is absolutely correct historically.....

Take a look at the contemporary model images I posted.

Looks real good to me ...well done.

Chuck

Yes ...just butt it against the stem.   Also,  since you will be painting the wales,  teh butt seams wont show through.  At least like I usually paint them.  That is your choice actually.  You can plank in individual segments or with one continuous strip.  It just depends on whether or not you want to paint it so the seams show through or not.  For example....see my Winchelsea model...no butt seams show up at all.  In fact,  when its all painted with the final finish you probably wont be able to even see the individual strakes.  Its just a personal preference thing.

Chuck

It looks very good Bob.   The skeleton is the most difficult part.   Once you start putting the skin on those ones she will be a most enjoyable project.

Chuck