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Chuck

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Everything posted by Chuck

  1. Either way would work. Mine ended up more parallel. But its more important to just keep them neat. It really all depends on how far apart your main rails ended up and what the angle into the stem ended up like on your model. It will probably be different on everyones model…. all be it slightly. The more you have to tweak the angle on those notched knees to match the angles…the more different the angles of the battens will be. Its a very complex area.
  2. Looking good. Just remember how much you will miss planking when uts all done!
  3. They will make several master molds from the masters I send them. But at some point I will need to send them more masters. I have plenty. But I am only tweaking one set for now. It depends on the shapes and how deeply the undercuts and stuff are for how many good castings they can get at a time. The guys I use also suggest injection molding which they can do but that is a huge cost for initial set up. So it would easily double the cost of the retail price of the sets. Unless I plan on making thousands of sets its not really worth the money for the set up. Its better suited for stuff like cannon where I easily sell thousands.
  4. Not this time. These are too small to hold any detail using boxwood especially the stern carvings. Unless you carve them by hand that is. Chuck
  5. Its a new type of resin printer…you can get them for home use but as with everything else the ones worthwhile are expensive. I think Chris posted the i nfo on which one he got sometime ago. I literally am consciously trying to not learn another new technology…my brain cant absorb any more. CAD proficiency and new tech which is improving every couple of months. Its too much for me. So I will leave that aspect to others and gladly pay them what they deserve. It prints upside down….how cool is that. These are my parts being printed. When I get them I work on them extensively…sharpening and carving more details by hand. It may be hard to tell but just adding a few details with your own hand makes them look less polished and machine made. Then I use them as masters for traditional casting. I really should introduce even more evident hand carving but these are quite small. But I may still do more work on them.
  6. Did some work on the final iteration of the figurehead and trailboards today. The fit is really quite good. If you can imagine the hairbrackets in position…all will fit rather smashingly. Also picture them with a wood finish. With these done I can send the masters for casting in wood colored resin. Note the raw 3d printed example in the photos. Looks very Syfy like before the supports are removed and the figure is cleaned up and tweaked. Its all very interesting the way its done and printed with a high end resin printer. The surface quality is excellent. A big thank you to Chris W. from Vanguard for his help with these. so now its back to frame-making…
  7. We are here if you need us!!! Post more frequent updates of less progress and I am sure it will be easier for us to fore-warn you of future issues. We have all been there so its something the group routinely does for other participants. Just remember to have fun with it.
  8. Ask the question before you proceed.....That is my only suggestion.... Its all here and a wealth of info and experience from participants who are well ahead of you. Take advantage of the fact that this is a group project. Its a wonderful thing. Chuck
  9. Its in there....take a look at that chapter again. Also mentioned in the instructions is another filler piece I recommend you place along the stern post that is faired to the hull shape. Its all in there so take a bit more time to examine the images and instructions. Adding that length of faired strip along the sternpost and glued to the bulkhead former will save you a lot grief later when planking. Should you recognize something that doesnt seem right or is missing I can only strongly urge you to ask those questions in your log before moving forward There are probably a dozen or so group participants that would be able to direct you to the info and post many images like those below. They are readily available. I would suggest trying to correct any twist on that stern before moving further ahead. That will only get harder to rectify as more planking is completed. Have you tried more "L" brackets against the former at the stern to force the stern transom into alignment? Perhaps just one on the Starboard side to force your transom a bit to port....after planking it should stay there. Chuck
  10. A 3D model is indeed a model and worthy of being placed in the gallery. But the same rules apply. It must only be images of the completed 3d model. All others will be discarded. We dont have enough of them to warrant its own category yet but that is a new type of hobby modelling. Just as valid as wood or plastic. If you set up your album as public so anyone can post in it then it is likely other members who dont know what they are doing will be able to select it and add photos. It could happen. Just notify a moderator and we will delete them. In addition, we still have folks just adding photos in the gallery to the wrong category or not within an album. These are routinely discarded as well. You must create an album for each finished model. Then add your images to that. Chuck
  11. Yes for english ships like Triton treenails are on the outside. Straight through but for a model its easier to fake it and put them in from outboard only if you are going to plank inboard and not see them anyway.
  12. Very nice Jerzy and it is so great to have you back building models. Looking forward to following your progress. Chuck
  13. Beautiful Mike…and hard to believe done with laser cut kit parts. I am pretty sure you wont find many other kits with headrails like that. you are in the home stretch now. The top gratings should be a piece of cake by comparison.
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