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dgbot

Gone, but not forgotten
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Everything posted by dgbot

  1. I would like to know that as well. As for Solder-it I have tried using it with a torch and the part i was working on dissolved on me. I wonder what I was doing wrong, David B
  2. I rarely went to the trouble. I would wet the strip and take a bending iron to it and once it dried I would repeat the process until I got what I needed. The iron I use is one I got from Amati. I hop my sister brought with her since it was stashed in one of my parts drawers. David B
  3. A book that would help you tremendously would be Rigging in the Age of the spritsail topmast by R.C. Anderson. I found it a good reference for the time period you are working in. It can be bought from Amazon in the Kindle edition at a good price. David B
  4. Then I doubt it beveling would be used to get a tight close fit between planking because of the hull shape. But when the planking is .5mm it is not really needed because they will sit tight with no thickness. David B
  5. If the planks from the kit stripped veneer do not bother but anything over that my answer would be yes David B
  6. you are going to need filters an aircompressor a recirculating pmp extra. We had one where I worked and it was in constant use. Depending on the abrasives you added to the mix we cut everything from rubber and belting to 5/8 dieboard maple, 3 inch shock pad and 1/4 steel plate. You will need something to keep the pump cool because it would get hot. Unless you are going into production. David B.
  7. At that size I would go with a plug. Easier on my nerves. Unless you are a glutton for punishment and into sadomaschism and go for building up the frames and plankng it. In reality most boats were built on a plug. And the frames were bent to the plug and planked or planked over with the frames added. David B
  8. By cutting the sail in half you will be able to furl it to scale and it will look better and neater. David B
  9. I would try soaking it in lacquer thinner and then clean with fine steelwool. If this does not do the job repeat with acetone. David B
  10. I do no know if there is a supplier available. ut what you can do is do a build up of th window starting out with stripsof wood that are 1/16 or 1/32 thick. I am not sure of your dimensions. make a copy of the window and glue it to a surface that will fit the contour of the stern and shape the strips to the plan. when you have the shape cut and position it and start over again. until the plan s covered. If you check out some of the other logs they will have some photos to show what I am trying to explain. David B
  11. Are they the wrong shape or size? If you could post a couple of photos it might make things easier for people to give an answer. David B
  12. I have a problem with passwords so I have a list on my laptop and in my phone. Since my phone is my lifeline with the Drs and my sister I never go anywhere without it. It gets embarrasing when you try to log into your hospital account or bank account and cannot remember your password. Some of them are so old i doubt if I can remember my secret questions and answers David B
  13. You are doing a fantastic job. It looks like you are going to really show your skills on later models. What do you have in mind for your next project ? David B
  14. A nice job on your planking. Remember, each hull is easier to do. Each model is a new lesson. Do you plan on using plate or tape for you coppering? David B
  15. I am not sure if this is the spot for this but I think this information would be helpful for those members who like the yachts of old that had character and find lines. http://www.classicboat.co.uk/news/complete-lloyds-register-memory-stick/ David B
  16. My nephew in Council Bluffs is an IT guy and uses either Linux or a mac. He will not use MS unless he has to. He told me that he was rebuilding a clients PC and the clients wanted something called a dual boot. XP and Linux. My nephew told him that XP will not be supported anymore and is a dead OS. His client said that for the work they are using it for it is perfect. And they will not be going on line with it. He told me that MS has been playing fast and lose with their updates and want everyone to adopt w10. But I have been happy with what I have so I will not waste the money. Kudos Julie for being able to do something I fear to try. David B
  17. I can remember one of our club members giving a demonstration using a Japanese water stones that by utilizing the water you develop a slurry using the dust and filings from the blade and from the stone this helps to really put heads on the blade once you finished you would take the stone to a strap and with the green Rouge buffing compound the end result was a chisel that you could shave with. I on the other hand am a firm user of a good oil Stone which has given me good use. I picked up some of the Diamond Stones that was shown earlier I didn't take my blades to a leather strap that's been charged with the green roof the end result is something I can work with As for sharpening exacto knives I've done it with my card models and it doesn't not really work very well. David B
  18. Terry, Since this model will be taking a dip what are you going to use for ballast and a false keel> That model might be a litle topheavy. David B
  19. That is a wonderful model. You really out did yourself. To bad you cannot bring it to WI. I know many who would be drooling over it and the judges would probably fall in love with it. You even might be going back empty handed. David B
  20. Another thing you could do is try Bluejacket their blocks might do the trick as well
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