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dgbot

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Everything posted by dgbot

  1. dgbot
    Over the years I have seen many open boats. Launches. Lifeboats, Whaleboats etc. And many of them used holly or beech for the frames. I remember one modeler who used yew that he harvested from near his place. I have been a fan of beech when I can find it because of it's flexibility and for the look after finishing. David B
  2. dgbot
    Holly would probably be the best for the frames. David B
  3. dgbot
    Well done Keith. A nice and simple way of doing what could sometimes be a stinker of a job. Your method is a real keeper. David B
  4. dgbot
    Looking fantastic Mike. And once you start using an airbrush you will never look back. David B
  5. dgbot
    I was always a fan of foam for my models as well. and as for your pintel and gudgeons you can try a little 3 minute epoxy. Just make sure the brass is super clean with no oils. I used to do my brasswork wearing a pair of white coth gloves. It kept my oily fingers from the brass. And check with Bob and kurt on soldering. Bob has a nifty way of making his pintel and gudgeons. As for your deck from what I have read those pilot boats were used hard and abused tremendoulsy. Piloting was a cut throat and competitive business. Those boats went out in weather that sane men would not do. So go ahead and weather it. I would advise experimenting with a wash on the deck. Uising some dorty mineral spirits. But remember to be subtle. Looking good. David. B
  6. dgbot
    Question, I have used muriatic acid before but rarely with good results. Several club members would use white vinegar for the prep and clean up. A little safer to use. David B
  7. dgbot
    That sounds like the Smith's Little Torch. A wonderful torch for both big and small parts. David B
  8. dgbot
    Brian is the model still available and where could I find it? David B
  9. dgbot
    Hervie, one methof iI used to do was layout a square on the plank and drill a hole in the center about 1/16 under the min. dimensions. then I would clean it up using files and sandpaper. Crude yes but at the time I did not have a table saw. I would probably do it that way again. Marvelous work and great photos.
  10. dgbot
    For the frames go with hard mample. for the planking you will find cherry or aplle nice. I mentioned these because they are available and not too pricey. Poplar will work well too. David B
  11. dgbot
    Charlie I want whatever you have been taking. It must be a powerful drink. Keep up the good work. David B
  12. dgbot
    Very decadent Pat. I could take her out and do some fishing. David B
  13. dgbot
    Happy birthday kiddo. And congrats on a neat gift. You will be in for a treat when you start on her> David B
  14. dgbot
    I wish I had a photo of my first underplanking job. It would give you nightmares. That was when I put in filler blocks inbetween the bulkheads to give me an evand surface. I also started to learn spiling and laying out the lines. With each hull your planking will get better. It takes time and practice. David B
  15. dgbot
    A micro torch will work fine. prep the parts and hen use a fixure to hold them together then flux solder and torch. The photos above showed how I made the part. David B
  16. dgbot
    Where do you find the energy? Super expresso? David B
  17. dgbot
    Mike, many years ago I started out with a Paasche H. It is a single action airbrush for a good price. After a bit of practice I used it for all of my painting. Simple and basic and still considered a workhorse. I bought a Badger 360 which I had to relearn many things. But it was worth it. Kurt is correct in saying acrylics are the way to go. I attended many club meetings hwere he gave talks on airbrushing and to me is still to go to man. Once you get used to an airbrush you will not look back. And remember practice,practice,practice and keep it clean. David B
  18. dgbot
    I am no longer in withdraw. Thanks for giving a fix. David B
  19. dgbot
    Interesting clamps you have there. David B
  20. dgbot
    I bought my Sherline lathe many years ago. And at that time DRO was just getting started. Over the years I sometimes wish I had bought the set up. But I learned how to work things with the help of friends. I think DRO is perfect for those who have problems seeing the lines on the wheel. And for making those repetitive cuts where you have to keep track of your turns. David B
  21. dgbot
    An admirable way of utilizing what you have to make a part you need. David B
  22. dgbot
    My eyes my eyes. Are you using a surgeons microscope? David B
  23. dgbot
    Sorry about that I made a mistake. I redid the link and tested it out. David B
  24. dgbot
    You are doing a wonderful job, Your boat has the look of the vessel that has seen hard use. As for the copper try a solution of vinegar and a saline wash and let set for a few days. Check with Doc and he might be able to give you some good ideas as well. Remember make a test sheet first. David B
  25. dgbot
    Were the turnbuckles part of the set you got? David B

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