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dgbot

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Everything posted by dgbot

  1. dgbot
    For a sealer I experimented with a 50/50 mix of Varathane and mineral spirits. I worked out pretty good. David B
  2. dgbot
    A lot of people did not know that U-Boats were patrolling off the East Coast of the U.S. during WWII and quite a few would surface to look at the New York skyline. http://www.foxnews.com/us/2012/07/27/explorers-find-downed-german-u-boat-off-mass594059.html David B
  3. dgbot
    A great job and inspiration for Card Modeling. I wish I could see it up close but as things are going now no San Diego this time around. The last one was good and a lot of fun. David B
  4. dgbot
    You are doing a great job. I would be a little on the lazy side and use copper tape. Then when each strip is on use a dulled exacto chisel and dent it to make a plate. No rivets, I did the hull of a Thermopolae years ago and hated coppering the hull. Making my own plates from chopper sheet. I decided I would try and find an easier method when I finished. I used contact cement as advised and after about 4 years I pulled out the hull and found plates were falling off. I was told to try CA the next time around. David B
  5. dgbot
    i have been reading about these sealers. How are they used and what is there main purpose? David B
  6. dgbot
    Very nice now you can give a good broadside to any tax collector who comes along side. David B
  7. dgbot
    You did a nice job Amigo. The only spot I noticed was in the second picture. It looks like you did not bevel the edge and the planking is to sharp. This can be repaired with a little sawdust and some glue. Once the edge has been filled a little sanding will give it that smooth flowing form., David B
  8. dgbot
    MetalBlackeningnew.pdf Here is a PDF that should give you all the info you need. David B
  9. dgbot
    Tim Evergreen Plastics has thin sheet that might work http://evergreenscalemodels.com/Sheets.htm Plastruct also has very thin sheets as well. http://plastruct.com/ David B
  10. dgbot
    Nicely done Nils. Another way of doing your life boats many years ago at the Midwest Model Shipwrights. A plug was made and a thin sheet of styrene was melted onto it using a hot airgun. Once the styrene cooled down it was removed and trimmed to shape. You can then add whatever you want. Quick east and a time saver. Bob F. along with Kurt could probably give you a better detail on how it was done. I went through my photos and could not find anything,. David B
  11. dgbot
    Depending on the scale you are the windmills have to really churn. I found in an artist store very thin rice paper that worked ror a greek galleass I built a long time ago. I usually go to a fabric store and look in the areas for fine embroidery. Also fine handkerchiefs aloning an old pillow case. Drafting linen can be used if you can find a supplier. David B
  12. dgbot
    I agee with everyone else Mick wonderful work. Makes me think about getting the plans myself. David B
  13. dgbot
    Another thing you have to think about is the species of wood you are using. Is it flexible or stiff as a board. I have found using the right type of wood helpful when planking and bending. David B
  14. dgbot
    Another thing you should experiment with is wood conitioner. I treats the surface so that it absorb the stain evenly. David B
  15. dgbot
    I have seen some models where sheet styrene was used to simulate the plating. Once applied and painted they came out great. David B
  16. dgbot
    Elijah, if I remember right Bob F. has a collection of test pieces that he has made up over the years. He might be able to help you on deciding what to do. David B
  17. dgbot
    The ship owners do not ant a weapons locker and all the rules that go with it. Plus these are sailors not soldiers. As for Charles Fryatt I do not think he did anything wrong. He defended his command to the best of his ability. This would be an excellent topic for the next episode of Pritzers Military Library. David B
  18. dgbot
    Amazing work. What did you use to hone that edge to get such crisp lines? I found that a keen edge is the key to a crisp cut. David B
  19. dgbot
    I found this article interesting and showing the way people thought at one time. http://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-essex-36745439 David B
  20. dgbot
    I am learning quite a bit from your log Cap't This is like being in class again. David B
  21. dgbot
    Your bulwark looks to be opening up from the hull or is that an effect from the camera? David B
  22. dgbot
    That is a lot of patience. What kind of file are you using? David B
  23. dgbot
    I was asked a question on what I was working on. The main material is usually aluminum, stainless steel being laminated to either shockpad and or cross-grained masticated. While they can be machined they tend to either burn out HSS bits and make a lot of smoke. Carbide bits are used when available but you still have to be careful of your speed and feed. Since most of the stuff we work with is non ferrous you have to learn the hard way and add notes in the mfg instructions for the next guy. The first time I worked with a piece of polyurethane and clogged up the end mill and almost ripped the part out of the vice. David B
  24. dgbot
    Tim what did you use to get the slots in you bulwarks. A chisel? David B
  25. dgbot
    One of the things I learned was if not sure take a light cut then go a little deeper with each cut . This was how I learned to mill the stuff at work. Hogging is a fast way to remove excess material but you have to be aware of what you are removing and the mill or cutting tool you are working with. David B

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