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Everything posted by gjdale
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Great to see you've solved your problem with etching Clare, the results look excellent. I'll add my vote/request for a tutorial in due course.
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Looking good Sjors. Glad to see you fixed the alignment of the deadeyes - those little details really make a big difference to the overall appearance of the finished model. Well done!
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Sounds to me like you've already decided Rusty. Now you're just trying to get us to help justify the expenditure to the Admiral!!! ;)
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- granado
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Great work and nice recovery Bob. It would quite an interesting exercise at some point down the road (long after we're all gone) to open up our ships and view the collective contents of our holds!
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Well Rusty, With the quality and volume of your work, and given that you are truly a "dark-sider", I would say that there is nothing for it but to take the plunge and buy yourself a lathe for Xmas. And you may as well be hung for a sheep as a lamb, so go with the metal-working lathe. I can thoroughly recommend the Sherline. Looking forward to seeing pics of your new lathe :P
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Hi Mobbsie, To answer your question, I formed eyes in either end of the catharpins and soldered them. The paint then makes this look something like an eye splice. I then lashed the eyes to the futtock staves. And yes, it does get very crowded and messy in there!
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Hi Mobbsie, Great progress mate. Love your mouse. Since you asked, the catharpins do look a little thick to my eye. On mine, I just used brass wire painted with some acrylic burnt umber that gives the look of oiled leather wrapping (leave the paint a little thick). I think I picked up that trick from David Antscherl's TFFM if I recall correctly. You might want to check your Mizzen stay deadeyes too. It looks to me from the photo that the lower one (attached to the main mast) is back to front / upside down. Nice to see you're over the modeller's block anyway!
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That Tryworks looks fantastic John! You should be very proud of that my friend!
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- Charles W Morgan
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Hi David, I don't think your Jeer blocks are upside down. As you only have holes at one end of the blocks, they should be at the end furthest from the falls, which is how I'm seeing yours. The attached picture is from Longridge's book and might help.
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- victory
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Glennard2523, To answer your question, if you are planning to build Victory, then the "bible" is "Anatomy of Nelson's Ships" by C. Nepean Longridge. Despite its title, it is really about building a model of Victory. The authors model was, until recently, on display in the British Science Museum.
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Thanks everyone for the kind words, encouragement and "likes". I forgot to mention that the light coloured thread seen in the pictures is from Chuck. I can't even begin to describe how vastly superior it is to anything I've used before and it looks........ well, like rope I guess Bob - you are so right! After all this time, I couldn't wait to see at least one yard in place. John - here is a link to a thread started by Alexy for his serving machine. It includes pictures and a link to a video demonstration. He will quote you a price and shipping via PM. I think it is a well made machine and works as it supposed to. Alexy is very prompt in responding to queries, and postage to Australia was very fast indeed. Of course, it's more expensive than a home made one, but worth the expense in my opinion. Usual disclaimers. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1594-serving-machine-20-not-just-serves-ropes/?hl=%2Bserving+%2Bmachine
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Thanks Marc - you are too kind! I decided to install the Fore Lower Yard before moving on to the next yard - figured it was probably going to be safer on the model than sculling around the shipyard! I had previously decided that I was not going to serve any of the lines on this model, but I made an exception when it came to the yard slings. I wanted to have a play with my serving machine (Alexy's product) and I'm quite pleased with the result. The sling has an eye in one end, and a thimble seized into a bight. It then wraps around the mast with the "tail" end passing through the eye and then being stopped back to its standing part with three round seizings. Here is the result: The yard was then attached by lashing the thimbles in the sling and the sling collar (on the yard) together. The truss pendants are then fitted to hold the yard against the mast, and the Jeers were then reeved. Here is a few shots showing the yard in place. You can see a mixture of kit-supplied blocks and my own blocks in these photos. The kit blocks were fitted to the masts and tops before I decided to start making my own. Blocks have been seized in the lower end of the Truss Pendant falls, but these have not yet been reeved and belayed. Likewise, the Jeer falls have not yet been belayed. I was about to rig the lifts, when I realised that the previously installed lift blocks on the mast were incorrect. So I took them off, spent an hour or so stropping some new ones, and then while attempting to fit these, managed to drop them into the space-time continuum void between the model and the desk. I decided that was probably a good time to stop for the day!
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Beautifully executed, as always, Rusty. The wood combinations are very nice too.
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Good for you Sjors in deciding to re-do something you weren't happy with. I'm sure you will be well satisfied with the results.
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ancre LE BONHOMME RICHARD by Jeronimo - FINISHED
gjdale replied to Jeronimo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Beautiful Karl. Simply stunning!- 662 replies
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- bonhomme richard
- frigate
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Richard, If the handles are hard to turn, just check that the axes aren't locked (each axis should be able to be locked in place individually). It's an easy mistake to make - don't ask me how I know!
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Nice work on the rail and pumps John.
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