gjdale

Sorry to hear about the setback Robert. I'll bet that's a lesson you won't forget in a hurry though! Good on you for your perseverance to get it right. I'm sure you will be very happy with the final result.

Paul, Just be aware that this kit is smaller of the two versions that Mamoli offer. This one is 1:150 scale. Their other one (which I'm building) is 1:90 scale. If you want to go with a larger version, I would suggest saving your pennies and going for the Jotika / Caldercraft version (1:72 scale). It's arguably the best Victory kit on the market at the moment. There are plenty of build logs here to see this kit, but if you check just one, have a look at Gil Middleton's log - it's probably the "Gold Standard". Or, if you wait a little longer yet (and save even more pennies), Amati are about to release a new version designed by our very own (MSW's that is) Chris Watton. It looks to be a real beauty!

Hi Derek, I've been quietly following your progress for some time but haven't left a comment before. Please allow me to rectify that right now! You're doing a terric job on this build. You have my absolute heartfelt sympathy on your bowsprit mishap. I recently had a similar mishap with my Fore a topgallant mast. And I've knocked the bowsprit so many times I'm surprised it hasn't snapped on at least a haf dozen occasions! Still, as you've just discovered, these mishaps do set us back a little, and most certainly expand the vocabulary of those within earshot at the time, but they are repairable. Keep up the great work.

This a lovely little project J. I've become quite enamoured of this little boat, and so have just acquired the plan set to add to my ever growing "one day" scratch build list. They arrived in the mail today I'll certainly be following along with your build from here. Keep up the great work.

Hi Ben, I somehow missed the start of this build log, but I'll pull up a chair in the front row and follow along from here. Looks like you're off to a great start.

Gee Mark, this is reading better than a "whodunnit"!!! Glad to hear you've solved the mystery though. Great work.

I'm with Colin on this one Mark. Of course, I'm sure you are now going to come up with something totally inspirational, that does not require the use of stealers!

Little by little we creep inexorably closer. Not long now John until string is in the air. Great job my friend.

Nice job on the cleats Bug. I've just been grappling with a similar issue for my Vic - Shroud Cleats to be exact. I've come up with a similar method, though slightly different. I'll post pics in my log tomorrow if successful. If not, I might just have to copy your method.

She dresses up very nicely Augie! As for the lower planking, I'm sure you will do an outstanding job. Between your skills and Chuck's jig/guidance, there can be little doubt as to the outcome.

Wow Danny! Already it's hard to believe that's the same model. Can't wait to see the full set of pics. You're doing a great job (as usual), and all jokes aside, your generosity of spirit towards almost total strangers sets an example to us all. Well done.

Absolutely fantastic work on the stove Gary! I'm salivating already just thinking about the roast pork you're about to serve up!

Now I was ready to fit the yards, or so I thought........... Re-fitting of the Fore Lower Yard went pretty much according to plan. Here's a few shots showing how it looks now. Note the the addition of Brace Pendants, and also the change of the Yard Tackle Pendants to include Long Tackle Blocks in lieu of standard double blocks: It doesn't really show in the pictures, but two 7" (3/32" scale) blocks are attached to the first shroud at the futtock staves on both fore and main mast. These are the tricing line blocks that we discussed some posts back. Still haven't finally decided on how the Yard Tackle Pendants will be displayed, but now I have some options and will have a play with these in the next few days. The lifts are not yet belayed as when I re-read Longridge on belaying, it seems that the Kevel blocks to which these are belayed had been omitted by my kit, the kit instructions suggesting they be belayed directly to the timber heads. Having thought about it overnight, I decided that I would just have to manufacture some Kevel blocks and do it right. The basic design is pretty simple - I took the dimensions from the diagrams in AOTS as Longridge is scanty on dimensions for these. Initially, I just drilled some holes to represent the sheaves: Then I thought, what the heck, why don't I have a bash at making some working sheaves - another opportunity to play with some of my toys I had some 6mm diameter Aluminium bar stock on hand, so I turned this down on the lathe to approx a 3mm diameter and then bored a 1mm hole through it for the sheave pin. Then I sliced off sections about 1.3 mm thick: The Kevel blocks were then adjusted by milling out the full sheave space using a 1.5mm end mill mounted in my Proxxon drill press: And here are the resultant pieces waiting for final finishing and assembly. Now I'm ready to continue with the yard re-installation.

Thanks John and Ben, and also all of those who "liked" my earlier posts. I mentioned previously that in re-doing the yards, I had decided that the parrals for the Topgallant were too large, so a visit to the local beading shop turned up some nice very small beads, and with the aid of Turbo CAD, I redrafted some patterns for the parral ribs at a more appropriate size, printed them on sticky label paper and stuck them onto some 1/64" boxwood stock: I then drilled the holes for the parral ropes and filed the general "B" shape into them using first a triangular file, and then a round file: The resultant ribs look like this: And beside their big brothers for the Topsail yard: And here they are ready to go:

Mike, This also from Lees (pg62): "Halliards were used for hoisting up the flags. Usually a sheave was fitted on each side of the truck and the Halliards hitched to any convenient point on the bulwarks". He also mentions that this arrangement was common to Fore, Main and Mizzen masts. Cheers, Grant

Hi Mike, Really nice work on the davits my friend! I may (read definitely will) copy your method with these. Re your flag attachment question,I would simply make the halyard in a similar fashion, with a loop in one end and a toggle in the other, making attachment of the flag quick and easy, and being able to secure on itself when the flag is not in use. I think I said in a previous post that my understanding is that the haliards were rove through sheaves in the mast trucks. The only refernce for this I can find in Longridge is on pg 182 (about the middle of the last paragraph). He is describing the making of the Fore topgallant mast and says, "... then fit the truck...and bore in it two small holes for the flag haliard." Hope this helps.

Thanks Bug and Mike, it's nice to know I'm not the only klutz in the class! Mike - that looks like an interesting fix. I considered using a brass pin, but was just too scared to start trying to drill more holes in situ, especially with rope in the way. Clearly, you found a way to do so! So far, the epoxy repair looks to be holding up well - I have a lot more confidence in this joint than I would using CA or other glue types - and the repair itself is hardly noticeable. I managed to get the Fore lower yard reinstalled yesterday, but was dragged off to take the Admiral out for dinner before I could take extra photos and post pics for an update. It seemed a little easier doing this the second time around (rigging, not dinner, that is ). I guess it's the benefit of all that practice! One thing I did discover in re-doing this bit though. Re-reading Longridge's instructions on belaying, I realised that the kit had completely neglected to use/provide Kevel blocks, incorrectly belaying the lower lifts directly to the timber heads instead. Guess I'll be making a few of those today (nine in total required by my count). I have a cunning plan.................... I will try to ensure a full pictorial update tonight before you-know-who comes bashing on the door.

Yep, me too Anja! It's a New Year - time to get back in the shipyard, tell Sjors to move over (after he's made the coffee), and get on with your lovely build. Looking forward to an update soon

Very nice work on the pumps Bug, very nice indeed!

Great work Sherry. I like the way you approached the curved railings - I've filed that one away for future reference (pun intended )

Very nicely done Augie - looking really sharp.

Thanks Lawrence, Patrick and Colin, Got distracted with household duties yesterday, but did manage to finish off the new parrals. All fore and main yards now ready for fitting - hopefully today.

Sean, Patrick is right, you'll need to complete the outer hull planking before you install the guns, otherwise they will get in the way while you're trying to plank. If you insist on using those metal gunport frames, you should be able to locate your gunport frames correctly by dry-fitting the decks temporarily and using a made up canon as a height check. Just remember to make allowance for the thickness of the deck planking and you should be okay. Hope this makes sense.

Great work on the masts there Colin.

Okay Sean, not sure if I understand your question about "frames and planking". Are you referring to gun port frames and inner bulwark planking? If so, you will need to install both of these before installing the guns. If you are going to rig the gun tackle, you will need to provide your own blocks as the kit does not provide for rigging any of the guns. You'll need 2mm blocks for this and some eye bolts and rigging thread to suit. If I've misunderstood your question, can you rephrase it please?