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gjdale

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Everything posted by gjdale

  1. Thanks Mobbsie and Sjors. These were very easy to make, and while you could call it "mass production" of sorts Sjors, it was nearly all "handraulic". The trick is to use only the tiniest amount of glue in the first stage, which makes the final separation easier. Mobbsie, I haven't decided yet whether to paint them black or leave them "au naturale", but I'm leaning towards paint.
  2. Thanks Augie - it's not an original idea though. I'm sure I picked that up from someone else here at MSW!
  3. Ouch David! What bad luck! Looks like you've done a nice recovery though.
  4. Haven't managed a lot of time in the shipyard lately, but the block party continues and the yards are slowly taking shape. I completed belaying the Truss Pendants, Jeers, and Lifts on the Fore Lower Yard, and have just completed attaching the blocks for the Fore Topsail Yard. I've decided to attach each yard to this (or relevant similar) stage before proceeding with sheets and braces etc. The Topsail Yard is attached to the Mast via a Parral instead of Trusses. The Parrals are made up of a series of "Trucks" (essentially egg-shaped wooden beads) separated by vertical "Ribs". The kit does not provide for the Ribs, so consulting once more with Longridge, I decided to make my own. Longridge provides a good diagram (with dimensions) and description on pg 213 (and Figure 139). To make the Parral Ribs I first cut a strip of 1/32" x 3/32" Swiss Pear into pieces approximately 6mm long and then spot-glued these together in gangs of three and the ends tidied up on the Byrnes disc sander. They were then roughly marked (by eye) to find the approximate locations for the holes which were then drilled with a 0.5mm bit. The "B" shape was then drawn (again by eye) onto the gang, and filed to shape with a triangular needle file, finishing with a flat needle file. The gangs were then given a 15 minute soak in bath of Isopropyl alcohol to soften the glue before carefully separating them again. The results are quite pleasing - and of course I made about double the number needed to ensure the God of the Space-Time continuum gap is fed appropriately! I was also a little side-tracked lately by completing this little model of Leonardo da Vinci's Aerial Screw that was given to me for my birthday recently (I beg the Mod's tolerance for this one off-topic pic):
  5. Hi Lawrence. Thanks for dropping by again. That picture is on plan No. 9, which is placed between pages 228 and 229. I'll send you a PDF version of it via PM.
  6. Looks fantastic Rusty. One question if I may. What is the reason that you (and others) use the Fiebings leather dye for staining the timber, instead of say, an ordinary black spirit-based timber stain?
  7. Great stuff Mobbsie - glad to hear the a catharpins are working out for you. Your intentions re the futtock shrouds are the correct way to do it. I have a picture of this in Longridge if that's helpful at all, but I suspect that you don't need it now. Let me know if you want it anyway and I'll scan it for you. Here's hoping Santa arrives on time!
  8. Michael, ME is Model Expo. They currently have the boxed set that Mark referred to on sale (code Jolly13).
  9. Hi Sjors, Have you tried the dead-eye jig (the one I copied from EdT)? It really makes it easy to get the dead eyes all lined up correctly. A picture is at post #3 on page one of my log: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/163-hms-victory-by-grant-dale-mamoli-scale-190/?hl=%20victory%20%20grant%20%20dale
  10. Looks like you've cracked the "repeatability" challenge Clare. Well done.
  11. Very nice Danny. The contrasting wood colours really give it some extra oomph!
  12. Fantastic work Alexandru. Your step-by-step photos are really helpful to understand your processes too - thank you.
  13. Great to see you've solved your problem with etching Clare, the results look excellent. I'll add my vote/request for a tutorial in due course.
  14. Looking good Sjors. Glad to see you fixed the alignment of the deadeyes - those little details really make a big difference to the overall appearance of the finished model. Well done!
  15. Sounds to me like you've already decided Rusty. Now you're just trying to get us to help justify the expenditure to the Admiral!!! ;)
  16. Great work and nice recovery Bob. It would quite an interesting exercise at some point down the road (long after we're all gone) to open up our ships and view the collective contents of our holds!
  17. Well Rusty, With the quality and volume of your work, and given that you are truly a "dark-sider", I would say that there is nothing for it but to take the plunge and buy yourself a lathe for Xmas. And you may as well be hung for a sheep as a lamb, so go with the metal-working lathe. I can thoroughly recommend the Sherline. Looking forward to seeing pics of your new lathe :P
  18. Hi Mobbsie, To answer your question, I formed eyes in either end of the catharpins and soldered them. The paint then makes this look something like an eye splice. I then lashed the eyes to the futtock staves. And yes, it does get very crowded and messy in there!
  19. Hi Mobbsie, Great progress mate. Love your mouse. Since you asked, the catharpins do look a little thick to my eye. On mine, I just used brass wire painted with some acrylic burnt umber that gives the look of oiled leather wrapping (leave the paint a little thick). I think I picked up that trick from David Antscherl's TFFM if I recall correctly. You might want to check your Mizzen stay deadeyes too. It looks to me from the photo that the lower one (attached to the main mast) is back to front / upside down. Nice to see you're over the modeller's block anyway!
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