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gjdale

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Everything posted by gjdale

  1. Hi Lawrence. Thanks for dropping by again. That picture is on plan No. 9, which is placed between pages 228 and 229. I'll send you a PDF version of it via PM.
  2. Looks fantastic Rusty. One question if I may. What is the reason that you (and others) use the Fiebings leather dye for staining the timber, instead of say, an ordinary black spirit-based timber stain?
  3. Great stuff Mobbsie - glad to hear the a catharpins are working out for you. Your intentions re the futtock shrouds are the correct way to do it. I have a picture of this in Longridge if that's helpful at all, but I suspect that you don't need it now. Let me know if you want it anyway and I'll scan it for you. Here's hoping Santa arrives on time!
  4. Michael, ME is Model Expo. They currently have the boxed set that Mark referred to on sale (code Jolly13).
  5. Hi Sjors, Have you tried the dead-eye jig (the one I copied from EdT)? It really makes it easy to get the dead eyes all lined up correctly. A picture is at post #3 on page one of my log: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/163-hms-victory-by-grant-dale-mamoli-scale-190/?hl=%20victory%20%20grant%20%20dale
  6. Looks like you've cracked the "repeatability" challenge Clare. Well done.
  7. Very nice Danny. The contrasting wood colours really give it some extra oomph!
  8. Fantastic work Alexandru. Your step-by-step photos are really helpful to understand your processes too - thank you.
  9. Great to see you've solved your problem with etching Clare, the results look excellent. I'll add my vote/request for a tutorial in due course.
  10. Looking good Sjors. Glad to see you fixed the alignment of the deadeyes - those little details really make a big difference to the overall appearance of the finished model. Well done!
  11. Sounds to me like you've already decided Rusty. Now you're just trying to get us to help justify the expenditure to the Admiral!!! ;)
  12. Great work and nice recovery Bob. It would quite an interesting exercise at some point down the road (long after we're all gone) to open up our ships and view the collective contents of our holds!
  13. Well Rusty, With the quality and volume of your work, and given that you are truly a "dark-sider", I would say that there is nothing for it but to take the plunge and buy yourself a lathe for Xmas. And you may as well be hung for a sheep as a lamb, so go with the metal-working lathe. I can thoroughly recommend the Sherline. Looking forward to seeing pics of your new lathe :P
  14. Hi Mobbsie, To answer your question, I formed eyes in either end of the catharpins and soldered them. The paint then makes this look something like an eye splice. I then lashed the eyes to the futtock staves. And yes, it does get very crowded and messy in there!
  15. Hi Mobbsie, Great progress mate. Love your mouse. Since you asked, the catharpins do look a little thick to my eye. On mine, I just used brass wire painted with some acrylic burnt umber that gives the look of oiled leather wrapping (leave the paint a little thick). I think I picked up that trick from David Antscherl's TFFM if I recall correctly. You might want to check your Mizzen stay deadeyes too. It looks to me from the photo that the lower one (attached to the main mast) is back to front / upside down. Nice to see you're over the modeller's block anyway!
  16. That Tryworks looks fantastic John! You should be very proud of that my friend!
  17. Great choice Robert. Aren't we lucky that Chuck decided to start the Syren company? I sincerely hope he goes from strength to strength with it, for what he has done for the modelling community he deserves every success with it. These will look fabulous on your superb build.
  18. Hi David, I don't think your Jeer blocks are upside down. As you only have holes at one end of the blocks, they should be at the end furthest from the falls, which is how I'm seeing yours. The attached picture is from Longridge's book and might help.
  19. You have a very interesting and resourceful approach Rob. I'm enjoying reading about your techniques and sources. Thank you for sharing them with us.
  20. Thanks John - always nice to receive a visit from you
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