Baker

Thank you all, Cristian i bought the Bosch saw recently to make a "bee hotel". I saw a similar in-store, price: 995 euros. Now I have a Bosch saw and a bee hotel, price: 213 euro .... Steven and Duff Thanks for the info. I found already the thesis on the evoloution of hull design. But not the other sites. By viewing this thesis there is little chance that my model will get a stern gallery. Chris Always welcome Now, on with the stem. More pieces are sawed and glued. After drying, the whole piece is sanded a first time. Now the paper keel is glued to wooden keel And after this , the grooves for the frames can be sawed out

info Scale of the model and probable dimensions of the ship Internet Links ship building 16th century http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/MA Thesis_Alexiou.pdf http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Furring in light of 16th century ship design_web.pdf http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Full thesis bates.pdf http://nautarch.tamu.edu/Theses/pdf-files/Steere-MA2004.pdf http://www.patrimoniocultural.gov.pt/media/uploads/trabalhosdearqueologia/18/22.pdf http://nautarch.tamu.edu/pdf-files/Myers-MA 1987.pdf ttp://www.theonrust.com/building-the-onrust1.html https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/144580044.pdf Hull Keel keel tapered Stempost Frames Replace the plywood frames Fillerbloks Balcony, doors and windows Beakhead Channels and installing cannons Fore and rearcastle Rearcastle interior Forecastle interior + stove Capstan Anchors Planking transom Transom upper part Lower hull cannon deck Upper hull Forcastle Treenails Treenails 2 Painting Hull Decks cannon deck (orlop deck) cannon deck (orlop deck planking and lay out canon deck (frames and gunports) canon deck finishing cannons, cannon deck finish, rudder swivel guns main deck waist, grating,staghorns, pump and figurehead Masts, blocks, deadeyes chaines deadeyes, chaines, masts Yards Standing rigging lower masts upper masts Running rigging and sails Spritsail Fore sail Fore topsail main and main topsail mizzen sail Sail making stitching sewing Flags Base plate Finished History of the ship Captain : Francis Drake (after 1580 Sir Francis Drake) 1577 Build or rebuild and launched as the Pelican 1577 Set sail with 4 other ships for an expedition intended to pass around South America 1578 Renamed as the Golden Hind(e) 1579 Captured the Spanish galleon Nuestra Senora de la conception 1580 Arrived back in England after a trip around the world First English ship to sail around the world And after this journey stored in dry dock on public display until she was finally scrapped. about the trip and sir Francis Drake http://www.winepi.com/DNG.htm http://www.indrakeswake.co.uk/index.htm Dimensions (depending on the source) Length : somewhere in between 31m to 37 m Tonnage : somewhere in between 100 to 150 tons Armament : 18 to 22 cannons Crew : start of the journey 80 to 85 men, Back on arrival in England 56 men Modern day replicas build : · One in Essex ,build between 1947 and 1949 (demolished in 2013) · One in Brixham in Devon build in 1963? Sunk in 1987 and scrapped (Now rebuild based on the hull of a steel barge) · One in Appledore North Devon, launched in 1973, sailed more than 140,000 miles all over the seas and now on display in London. Source : wikipedia The model More then 45 years ago, the Airfix Golden Hind on 1/144 scale was the very first scale model I ever built. This model now wil by a plank on frame model. And I can only do my best to make it as realistic as possible. There are no plans, no drawings and no paintings of the real ship. I just find a few etchings of about 1600 - 1620 on the internet and they are both different. On the internet there are plans . They are of Aeropiccola, an Italian company that no longer exists. I think the scale is abouth 1/50 http://www.john-tom.com/SailBoatPlans/GoldenHind/golden_hindSm.pdf They looked great in the beginning.But the more I look at them, the less good they begin look ... It seems as if the hull is too wide and the shape of the frames dont match the shape from those of Matthew Baker (A well-known shipbuilder from this period) But : It looks like nobody knows If this ship was a real "race galleon" or just an armed merchantman (privateer). Before we start Were the guns placed below dek or on the dek? I believe that all the guns were lined up below deck. And not on the deck like with most Golden Hind models. Guns on the deck may cause an unstable ship . And on the models there is not enough room to absorb the recoil of the guns and too reload them. So Mi first step is to try to build a hull with: A shape that has enough space to absorb the recoil of guns. But is not too wide Has place for 14 cannons below deck Has 2 light guns in the forecastle. Has 4 light cannons in the rear castle. Apparently it looks if there is only one ship wreck from this period is found. Called "the Princess Channel wreck” or “the Gresham ship” In this period many newly built ships were so unstable that the hull had to be adjusted immediately. With the aid of Girdling: (making the hull wider at the water line). Or furring ( make the hull below the waterline wider). Actual evidence of this was found in the Gresham ship. http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Furring%20in%20light%20of%2016th%20century%20ship%20design_web.pdf http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Full%20thesis%20bates.pdf Even on the replica of the Golden Hind the hull is widened at the waterline. I use plywood, ramin ( the pieces of ramin wood are old leftovers from construction works in our house 20 years ago) an cherry wood (from a tree that came from the garden) And the keel of the Golden Hind was laid on a sunny day the 10th of september.

Thanks for the positive comments The next build is still in preparation. It is too early to start a build log. Ps, All reservations are free of charge

Maybe something like this. in the museum there is a reconstructed part of the hull Some of the guns are arranged inclined (angled). ps, You might get in trouble when the door must be opened . Greetings Patrick

I found flags on the internet of the Wasa from Corel. For some reason they sent me two sets for the price of one The flags are cut out and fitted with brass rings and then mounted on the masts. Maybe there are more appropriate methods but I find its ok in this way. My model is now finished When I started in 2006 I wanted from the beginning to build a model as accurate as possible. For my. This was not completely successful. But I'm happy with the result !! ( Apparently, the success rate to finnish your first wooden ship model is about 19%. So, happy my!! ) When I started to build i had just the pictures of my visit to the museum. The drawings from Billing, a keel with frames that were partially built wrong and a box with wood and parts. Then, there were no correct color schemes available. So there is too mutch red paint on the hull. And the figures do not have the correct color. And, I did too many nails into the hull ..... Conclusion The model from Billing is a good model for a reasonable price. But there is a lot of extra work on it. Thanks to everyone who has followed my build log. Now it is first study time for my next project Greetings Patrick

Try to degrease the figures with some acetone before you apply the base color. (The mold in which the figures in cast is probably first injected with a type of oil) This is what I do when i paint military models that are made in epoxy resin. But be careful not too much and not too long brushing on the figures !! Greetings Patrick

Excellent, as always. Patrick

I have attached the plans from Billing Boats on my build log. If you can use them, feel free to download them. Patrick

I have attached the plans from Billing Boats. The PDF is reduced to get below 2 mb but is still from good quality Normally they can by downloaded from the site from Billing Boats. But apparently they are no longer available on their site. After the holiday period I'm going to order the flags. Patrick BB490 Wasa_Instruction-2-min.pdf BB490%20Wasa_Instruction-min.pdf

The anchor looks also great. I would not start painting it before you have the two anchors in your possession. Then they are painted in the same way. I painted my anchors in a gun metal base color. (See my build log of Wasa) Compared with the Billings Wasa this woodwork looks very neat and easy to build, I think Ps You really do need a bigger letterbox Greetings Patrick

Hello everyone Jan, I Hope you find our Belgian beers delicious I stick to maximum two beers. Otherwise I have always a hangover the morning well, The lantern is fixed on the ship It is not a plan or a plan b But something in the middle. After three unsuccessful attempts to make wings for my angels. I decided that my angels will remain wingless. I had reached my limits in scratch building. On my lantern I have used figures in 1/72 scale. Therefore, there is not enough space between two figures to put wings on them. But, I found pictures of a lantern on the Duth VOC ship The Batavia (build in 1627-1628). Here is shown a lantern with approximately the same figures, but without the wings. Wasa and Batavia are both build by a dutch master So why not go further with this example, I decided. So if someone wants to build my lantern with angels and wings. Make the lantern wider or use figures in scale 1/87 Any figures that you want to use, use figures without helmet. Saves a lot of work!! I have attached a pdf with a drawing Dimensions are in mm (1 millimeter = 0.0393700787 inches) (Extra small details in plastic strip are applied on the lantern) Painting is gold and gun metal) schets lantaarn.pdf The rudder is fixed with rope and the anchors are in place Now it is searching for flags and attach them. And then the model should be finished. For now it's back to military modeling. And in the meanwhile think what model ship I'm going to build hereafter. Patrick

nice work I agree with Jan. Cost of labour was very low compared with our time. But if every sailor on board the real ship could paint sufficient enough to maintain an artwork like it is presented on the 1/10 model in the museum. That is an open question. Patrick

A few drinks a day, keeps the heat away New Belgian way of life ..... And I might have luck with the lantern Patrick

The anchors are finished. The wood parts are painted with oak varnish. The metal parts are painted with Tamiya acrylic paint Base coat :Gun Metal X10 + Flat base X21 Let dry for 24h Apply a wash with a mixture of "home made" rust paint : Desert sand XF59 + Red Brown XF64 + thinner + water Let dry for 24h Attach the wire around the ring of the anchor Applay a wash with a mixture of Flat black XF1 + thinner + water Let dry for 24h and ready They will be attached later on the model. Patrick

The anchors. I've made some new parts and now they are ready to varnish and paint. Patrick

The lantern I started with the difficult way. We'll see what the result will be if it succeeds then I will make a drawing of it But, there is a plan B (picture 1 right side)

Every time I see your model. I think (In Dutch) "jaa man, knap werk" In English : waw, great job!!

A little advice from a beginner to all new beginners. I started 10 years ago with my model of the Wasa. After 10 long years full of unexpected problems I approach finally the completion of my model. Have i 10 years just built this model? Certainly not, and certainly dont do this yourself. You will lose your interest in this hobby In summer i build a wooden ship, in winter my military models. When the ship starts to bore me, I switch to the military. so : Start with a model that is not too big, you got to have room for it when it is finished. But find a ship model that makes you feel good or you'll lose your interest in building the model. Not too expensive. if it fails, you just lost your money. If you are unsure of starting a build log, start it only when you have build something (like me). If you are unsure of the next step in building your model, search the Internet or ask advice on this forum. If someone at home asks you when will the model be ready?? Just say this is a hobby, there is no hurry, it's just fun building it. If you want to build a model ship : This is a great forum where you can always ask for help when you're in trouble But, I go every year for a reunion (gathering) of plastic modeling. Every year I see the same faces... Every year we all are a year older.... There are apparently few young newcomers who practice our hobby. If only one out of ten newcomers continues to carry out this hobby Then we all should be happy, I think. Greetings to all of you

Thanks Michael, I go for the easiest solution (number 3) The lantern with the angels is far above my skill. I have some material to use as a base. But if that does not give the desired result Then it will be something scrathbuild. Mayby in plastic and then painted. Greetings Patrick

The rigging is now complete. Now still to do : flags The flags that come with the kit are a 30 year old and are a disaster... Finishing the rudder with rope or chain I should have done this at an earlier stage. I have now discovered anchors Lantern?? Had the Wasa a lantern or not??? Creating a base for the model

Thanks for the pdf, Unfortunately, I'm too far in the construction now too change this error on my model. And, Your model is and remains great !!!! To be jealous of

Frank, thank for your comments. Thanks for likes, and dropping by (:-) A few added small time consuming details, as I want to make sure that all needed items are in place before I attach the mainmast shrouds to their deadeyes. Turns out that the pin rails that I had located at the quarterdeck were in error (first early photo). Fred Hocker said, “we got that wrong, those pin rails were added by mistake, it should have been kevels” So pulled them out-did leave some scaring, and then put together a kevel for each side. Aconcern from me : I make the Wasa (Billing Boats) with sails and left these rails in place. I will need every pin and kevel a can find for the needed rigging for these sails. If you remove these pin rails i think that you wil not have enough kevels for your rigging if you add sails. Greetings Patrick Ps, If there are some misspellings in my english sorry

Thanks, With each step closer to the finish of this model i get more and more respect for builders of wooden model ships. With the military plastic models that i build, you need tho think always one step in advance. Or, you get in trouble !! With wooden ship models it's five steps !!! As i have discoverd over the past 10 years ....

Hello everyone. I have attached the sails and part of rigging. It begins to look like a sailing ship.

The Vasa from Billing boats is a good kit. But with allot of extra work before you get a good model. Once the plastic figures are painted. What is then the difference with bronze figures? i dont now. I am building the Wasa from Billing also View my model on : http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13249-wasa-by-backer-billing-boats/