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Baker

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  1. Baker
    Welcome to MSW. Greetings from Belgium
  2. Baker
    For builders of Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman ships : This looks very interesting Dozens of perfectly preserved ancient shipwrecks have been found at the bottom of the Black Sea. A total of 60 wrecks were discovered dating back as far as 2,500 years, including galleys from the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman empires. English http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-4898204/Experts-graveyard-60-preserved-ancient-shipwrecks.html?ito=social-twitter_mailonline Dutch http://www.hln.be/hln/nl/961/Wetenschap/article/detail/3263928/2017/09/20/Zestig-oude-schepen-ontdekt-in-Zwarte-Zee-enkele-wrakken-dateren-uit-Romeinse-tijd-en-zijn-2-500-jaar-oud.dhtml
  3. Baker
    People were indeed smaller 200 a 500 years ago. See the link to the Vasamuseum https://www.vasamuseet.se/en/collections--research/skeletons But, there were exceptions : The average height of the crewmen is 167 cm, with the tallest 179 cm and the shortest only 160 cm. This is much shorter than today, which is a result of a poor diet as children. For my Golden Hind I use an length of 160 cm (about 5 foot) hopefully this helps.
  4. Baker
    Welcome back Robin. Groetjes
  5. Baker
    Greetings from belgium. (Google translate is very helpful)
  6. Baker
    Looks great Nils I'm following
  7. Baker
    Thanks everyone for the nice comments and likes. Painting schemes : I've already thought about it. But painting will not be done in the near future. The Golden Hind is probably re-painted a few times on her journey. So I can choose from a few options. - A brand new Pelican as she left England. - A repainted Pelican renamed as Golden Hind - A worn out Golden Hind on her trip home. So, i do not know this yet, but probably i go for the repainted Golden Hind. Painting Below the water line: definitely white or cream (the white stuff) Unpainted wood: presumably a dark brown wood color Thanks for following
  8. Baker
    After completing planking of the stern. I had the problem of how do I now continue No good plans or drawings and no remains of a shipwreck to look at. Only some ideas in my head that I could not transfer on my model. So, why do not make drawings on the model. How? Using Post-it , magic tape, pencil and paper. very easy. If it turns out that the dimensions are not correct. A new post-it on the model and I just start drawing again. I have never seen this method . But for me this way is very helpful. Gun ports are made. The front frame is first reinforced before further planking. This is to avoid warping. And planking is started. The wales on this part of the hull are narrower then the one on the lower hull. The lowest frames are made to the proper hight. Don’t now the proper name for this part. But the idea was that is has to look if the wale is going from front to back in one line. Further planking. Scraping and sanding. The planking of the hull is almost done. But first I have to saw more planks and wales Thanks for following Index in post 1
  9. Baker
    Thanks Lawrence, I do my best to build the model as good as possible. A larger scale indeed has more possibilities. Meanwhile, the planking of the upper part of the hull continues. But because I do not use plans or drawings. This requires a lot of thinking and fitting (trial and error method) I see that the build of your Golden Hind has good progress and looks very good. Meanwhile we have been on holiday and there was a lot of extra work in the garden. So, there was not much time for shipbuilding in the last month. I hope to do an update soon.
  10. Baker
    Nice work Enjoying an Omer on a terrace. Lekker (Yummy)
  11. Baker
    As always Beautiful and well done with many details. The end result will be great
  12. Baker
    Thanks Steven. I fully agree with you. In the early 80's I built a M113 APC model and gave it a rusty look. Only to discover later that an M113 is made of aluminum... a stupid beginner mistake . Since then, i do research as much as possible. For now, have a good idea of how to proceed with the Golden Hind. The final shape is already in my head. Now I just have to transfer it to the model. Ps, Beautiful dromon you are building
  13. Baker
    looks great! Smart thinking. Reduce the sails before they are furled. I have to remember that.
  14. Baker
    Thanks Michael, Since I started this model. I only realized how spoiled I was with the information i can find about military material from the 20th century. And how hard it is to find something about a ship about 500 years ago. This obviously has pros and cons. I can not give a Tiger or a Sherman tank a wrong color, number etc. Because ... there's always a picture that proves i'm wrong. Give a Golden Hind or any other ship out of that period a higher or lower deck. Nobody can say you're wrong, or right. That's just the fun of this project. First the reaserch Then the building Then Post on Msw (and in the meantime I learn more English) And then receive comments and help if needed from others Be sure to visit the Vasa again.
  15. Baker
    Thank you christian and michael. And everyone who follows I actually thought the hardest part was over. Well, it is not. For the time being, no remains of shipwrecks have been found for the upper part of ships from the 16th century. About the build: All that remains to use as an example are drawings and paintings from the 16th and early 17th century The Mary Rose, which is a little too old. And the Vasa, which is a little too young. And: The "Detailed" plans of ships from the 16th and 17th centuries. Usually these plans are drawn in the 19th and 20th centuries. They are useful, but compared to the remains of shipwrecks, they are full of mistakes. Using the modern replicas of the Golden Hind to build a model is also not the right way to me. So now, Before further planking, first think and make drawings I also think the stern is quite high. As it is now built. It must remain a stable ship So, it is possible that poopdeck wil be lowered. The inner parts (frames) wil be explaned later. When i complete the orlop deck And in September we will visit Batavia ship in the Netherlands. Not the same ship as the Golden Hind .. But ideal to think about life on an old sailing ship. I gowing to take a lot of photos (and if allowed post them on MSW)
  16. Baker
    Making the poop at the stern of the ship. "Poop" If you ever come to Flanders or the Netherlands and you say "poop" in English People will probably look strange to you. I searched in wikipedia where this name comes from The name originates from the French word for stern, la poupe, from Latin puppis. A good explanation (It has something to do with a certain part of our admiral ) Attach supports to the stern. Attach “frames” on the supports 2 extra supports for the deck ( there is just enough room between them to open the door ) Planking, there are two windows for the cabin in the poop. Cabins in the rear will be planked on the inside. The wales on the stern. From now on, most of my information will come of old drawings and paintings from the 16th and early 17th century It seems that no standard can be found in how many wales there are on the stern. Where there are openings made in the stern, there are apparently wales provided I have thus provided 2 wales One under the door of the balcony One under the opening of the helm (At the same level as the lodging knee on the orlop deck). This could be correct. There are also 2 small holes made next to the opening of the helm. Thus, the wale (outside) can be attached to the lodging knee (inside) With some extra detail inside Thanks for following this build Index post 1
  17. Baker
    I would also keep the bulkheads. For the same reason as Roger said : This is an easier way to build an accurate hull because the thin body plan sections (or the bulkheads) are in fact templates embedded in the hull. Used products. Ordinary universal filler for wall and gyproc plaster. Available everywhere (This is a Belgian brand) Ordinary white wood glue. I have used this filler for 25 years as a base on wooden boards for my military model. Never had any problems with it
  18. Baker
    If I understand your question correctly. You may find an example here. I have built a solid hull with filler blocks between the frames (bulkheads). I was very pleased with this way of construction
  19. Baker
    I have occasionally followed the building of this model. Nils, Beautiful and well done !! Groetjes
  20. Baker
    Further planking of the transom. After long doubt There will be a balcony on the transom. There is one door and 2 small windows. First attempt. A rectangular door, not good. So : remove and rebuilt This is better What you can do with a piece of 2 euros Done Index post 1 Thanks for following this build
  21. Baker
    Steve Thank you for the information So, definitely no breast hook on the deck. If possible, I will place one under the bow. And my friends. Enjoy the nice weather in the weekend as much as possible. About me Just back from a couple of days hiking in Luxembourg With good food and drinks included (Of course )
  22. Baker
    And now a question. Ever heard of a breastshook? This is a solid piece of wood that is attached to the bow. A piece of wood on the deck as an example (Not yet in the right shape) Would i attach this part on the deck? Or is this actually placed under this deck? And is thereby invisible on this model. i did a google search But found no satisfactory answer
  23. Baker
    The plywood frames are replaced with frames of solid cherry wood. After long thinking I took 9mm as a space between the frames. It seems that the distance between 2 frames could have been between 38 and 45 cm (on scale 1/45 = 9 to 10 mm). This can match the width of the gun ports (40 cm) (10mm on scale 1/45) I made a mistake : I should have replaced the plywood frames first before start planking the upper hull. Now I have a few frames that are in the middle of a cannon port. I did not find any way to avoid this I hope that this is no longer noticeable after the hull is fully planked. Frames are supported at the top with soft wooden spacers (later easily removable). All the frames are now too long ( Shortening them is easier than making them longer) An extension must still be provided to the transom for the poop deck. But before I can do this, I must first know where the other decks will match the transom. I think I choose for a balcony around the stern. Maybe it's wrong, maybe it's right. Who knows? Thanks for following this buildlog Index post 1
  24. Baker
    Thank you Lawrence. Scratchbuilding a wooden ship is something totally new to me. Before I started this, I had no idea of the complex structure of the interior of a wooden ship. I have learned a lot of shipbuilding in the 16th century. If all of the information I found is helpful to others. glad to be of service. Meanwhile, construction continues. Saw cherry wood (With old-fashioned and with modern tools) Replace the plywood frames (work in progress). I hope to do an update soon And everyone Thank you for following this log Index post 1
  25. Baker
    First i agree with juhu For me about sailing ships Plastic model sailingships or wood model sailingships are a world of difference. The (current) plastic kits are relatively "cheap" and well-detailed. And yes, (again) many of these kits come from China or other low cost countries. To me, some makers of wooden model ships still seem to be somewhere in the 70s or 80s (NOT all of theme). But these models are still being built by companies that have to make a profit. Building a wooden model of a ship. Is for many builders a dream that takes too long and never reaches the end. A combination of wood and plastic or resine would be ideal. Comment on your question : Nobody says you can not do a combination of the 2 yourself. Plastic model builders sometimes mix models from different manufacturers. And then use only the best pieces. Expensive But those choices are to be made. To start, building a wooden model ship is expensive in purchase. But considering the amount of hours spent on building a wooden model. It is relatively cheap hobby.

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