reklein

Min-wax golden oak looks similar to that.

I'm pretty sure that "carton" is the German word for card or cardboard . The a cartonis is one who builds from card. The best wine to drink while building is  "Cardboardeau" Cheers.

I think you have your scarf joints bolted wrong. They should be pinned top to bottom and therefore not visible. Google scarf joints for ships.

He bought a dremel and is now looking for accessories. He did not buy the drill press adapter.

I have one and its pretty handy for holding the dremel sideways to use as a more precise cutoff tool with the carbide wheels. Its a little floppy though for precise milling or the like'

. For drilling plastic I like the Ryobi electricians screwdriver with a special chuck for drilling plastic. It has lots of torque and turns slow enough not to melt the plastic. IThe Dremel turns too fast for that and doesn't have low speed torque.

I stained all my planks before I applied them to the hull' I used min-wax golden oak. I used pencil to simulate caulking. No running, more subtle caulking. I applied the stain with a piece of old cotton T shirt. I like to lay wet stained planks out on triangular blocks to dry. The sharp edges leave little or o marks. I forgot to say I sanded them with 220 before staining.

Try making your new one out of two pieces of 3/16 bass wood. Two beams laid crosswise and sanded to shape.

Coppering has begun. Hers my set up for embossing the copper. I just happened to have this handy tool on hand. Its a sensipress from NWSL. One could also use a small drill press. I feel it gives me better control than a hammer.

If you only blacken one edge remember to fasten the planks correctly so you don't have two black edges together.

Rit dye is not color fast. I was gonna say tea stain,but now I don't know about the acid stain. How about very dilute sepia india ink. Dilute with alcohol and water.

I did a clock case with tung oil and it took 3 weeks to get the smell out good enough to bring in the house. Beautiful finish though. I did thin it with turpentine too.

Pretty cool !

I used Titebond on the deck I needed the woking time. That's the final finish you see. Its one coat of minwax golden oak. I like the slightly weathered,antiqued look.

Thanks Rich.

Planking is complete,just need to mark the plank ends. The joggling was sort of a fun challenge even though it may not be beautiful.

Probably would be best to test out a section off the model. I use oil base sealer and acrylic paint. Its an old trick for getting a good clean line on waterlines, model airplanes and trains. you can apply masking tape, then seal with the clear and then paint with your color. When you remove the tape there is no leakage or running under the tape. I don't think you'll get a color change but I know you'll get running in unsealed end grain.

Doug,If you go with painting the ends black . You can prevent any bleeding by first using a coat of clear sanding sealer. It will prevent any black from running down the grain.

You'll need the rabbet to tuck the plank ends into. I don't kow maybe you got another method..

You may not necessarily need the stern post but you will need the rabbet strip in place before planking.On the pic of your stern I did not see a rabbet.

Seems to me with a 3D rendition of that quality it would be a fairly easy step to 3D printing of such a model. That's a terrific rendition , it took a couple of looks before I realized it was just electrons on a page. I was also struck by the shape of the hull. How it looks like a balloon with too much water in it.;)

Got some painting done and am currently installing the waterways.

Blue Jacket ship models make very good use of the carved solid hull ,with planking on top. There Constitution model comes to mind first.

Greg, for drilling plastic try using one of these Ryobi electricians drills. They turn slowly but still have enough torque to drive a sheetrock screw.

Nice work Steve.  You're gonna love building and flying that cub. Friends of mine built it years ago and it was really fun to watch flying around low and slow.

   PS get the set of floats for it,even better.

OK, little more progress made the bullrail planking has been finished and sanded. then painting was accomplished and the toprail installed along with the molded trim.

Theres probably only 3 people on the planet that know what was actually there back in 1805, but, I saw one photo in my copy of the aots book showing a wooden bar across the davits as a spreader. Also the paragraph on the quarter davits describes them as probably straight rather than curved because it was easier to find materials on board to replace them when damaged.

    I just wish I could model this as well as Ken is doing and unless somebody hadn't asked the question I would never have known the difference. Good work Ken.