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Hubac's Historian

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  1. Hubac's Historian
    Excellent tip, Dan! I will look into it, as this yellow ocher color I mixed is exactly what I want. It would just be nice to not have to waste so much paint, in the process - overloading the brush, wicking off the excess and trying to apply before having to rinse, etc. Welp - at long last - SUCCESS!
  2. Hubac's Historian
    Such a cool idea with the transparencies!
  3. Hubac's Historian
    Of all the carved work that I have done for this project so far, the trailboard has been the most vexing, by a long-shot. While I usually double-stick the work to a scrap of masonite, I reasoned that I would need to work this carving, constantly, from one side to the other. The necessity of this approach, as I quickly discovered, is underscored by the fact that - despite a sound indexing point, in the half-round forward notch - the paper patterns were just askew of each other, from one side to the other. I wonder whether this can be attributed to the paper expanding unevenly, upon application of the water-based glue stick. I don’t use solvent-based spray adhesives because of the plastic. Whatever the case may be, working both sides enables you to meet at the middle and smooth a transition between the two sides. It’s all just extremely time consuming, but then, I’m a glutton... While it seemed like a good idea to work from the outside, in - my mistake was in relieving the Xs, first. I should have saved this for last because doing so made the work especially fragile. The design calls for shell reliefs inside these X’s, but I just did not think I could pull that off in this scale. Instead, I opted for the lightness and visual interest that opening up the negative space provides. These pictures don’t reflect the current, near finished state of the carving, but they do provide a sense of scale: Presently, I’m carving the year marker, and will soon clear up any fuzzy bits, re-join the broken bit and paint before installation. I am happy with the way that it came out, but it was a real devil of a job to get there. The other project that has consumed an in-ordinate amount of time was fairing back the knee extensions of the head. This has been a process of adding back plastic and slowly fairing to the new contour of the bow, until I had a solid joint at the cut-off point, all along the top edge of the knee extension and connection at the side. What makes all of this difficult, of course, is that the bow extensions that I installed, earlier, flatten the bow a bit, near the stem. But, then, I also filled the space between the lower two wales, as an extension of the anchor lining. And, for good measure, I padded-out the leading edge of the stem by a 1/16”; that is all a lot of new reality to fair to. As such, I decided not to worry about connection along the bottom edge, as long as I had a solid glue joint at the joint, top and sides: In these two pics, you can see how the first round of shims didn’t quite get me where I needed to be. After more shimming, I finally got the port side secured: But, the starboard side was a real PITA; I’d shim, file away too much in the wrong spot, then re-shim, etc. Eventually, I got it right: Though, I still have some putty work to do, before painting these extensions, you can see that they align neatly with the wales and present a fair transition: With that at an acceptable state, I set to work making a few slight modifications to the upper knee. I filed more of a hook for the collar of the main stay, and added a half round moulding to the profile just above: You can see the bit of BONDO patch to the forward end of the fluted moulding. That was because of this gap between the tail of the figurehead and the moulding: All of the parts of the head are warped just enough that problems like this are un-avoidable, despite best efforts to fair and straighten things out as I glued the figurehead to the cutwater assembly. This gap does not exist on the port side. Leaving the gap, though, spoils the illusion that this is more than just a plastic model. Re-shaping the patch didn’t take long, and it was time well spent: Unfortunately, I made a dog’s breakfast of my first attempt to paint the upper knee. The black went on gloppy, and I had to scrape the whole thing clean and re-do it. I’ve also painted in the yellow ocher and now this part is ready for installation, following the trailboard piece. As a side note, I have found the Tamya acrylics to be very difficult paints for brushing; they practically dry on the brush before you can apply them, and it takes multiple applications for the necessary depth of color. Does anyone know of any additives or conditioners that make them more user-friendly for brushing? Next, I will tackle the short beakhead deck and the beakhead bulkhead. I have figured out ways to re-cycle the stock kit parts, which saves me from the sort of frame and plank job I did on the lower transom. As ever, thank you for your interest, your likes and your comments. Be well!
  4. Hubac's Historian
    Hey EJ - ‘just catching up with your log. The stern and QGs are very neatly framed and trimmed out. Beautiful work on the scarfed wales, as well.
  5. Hubac's Historian
    Thank you, Mark! My goal, always, is to reduce the impression of plastic as much as possible. Sometime in the not-too-distant future, I’ll begin painting the stern, and then the thing will really start to come to life.
  6. Hubac's Historian
    The stem and figurehead in place: This is the trailboard layout that I have arrived at: I find that it is much easier to neatly draw something on vellum because you can mark-out reliable reference lines, and the paper has tooth. You can also erase easily and forever on vellum which, in the case of something like this, is extremely helpful. My layout of the Berain design was going very well until the foremost section, in front of the big fleur. The essential problem is that Heller threw a wrench into the design with the way that the tail of the figurehead resolves. In Berain’s drawing, the tail resolves between the knees of the head, and fully forward of the trailboard lattice: Perhaps because Tanneron did not address the figurehead or the trailboard, Heller took some creative license. The Heller tail resolves mostly below the trailboard, but the upper lobe of the tail intrudes into the trailboard space in a very inconvenient way. This small semi-circular intrusion is a design disrupter! Rather than attempt to continue the lattice in an unsatisfactorily asymmetrical way, I chose to take a little creative license, myself. To my mind, leaving the space open and unsupported would not make any structural sense. I considered adding one larger shell to this forward space, but there was no way to do that without it looking grafted on - an afterthought. Ultimately, I chose a year marker for the rebuild - not because it is plausible historic convention, but because it adds something of historic relevance and context to this particular depiction of Soleil Royal. I employed a similar rationale for the inclusion of the motto banner on the lower transom. The statement, however imperfectly, that I am trying to make with this model is that these Berain/Vary portraits represent her refit appearance in 1689. And so, this will be my time-stamp signature in the trailboard. Also, numbers have a wonderful malleability for filling odd spaces.
  7. Hubac's Historian
    Gaetan, as always your work is impeccable, and your ship is rounding into form beautifully. Thank you for posting that listing of NRJ article subjects. I will have to obtain a set of the CDs. If I may ask about the chatter groove on the aft face of the rudder - in what period of French naval architecture did this groove first appear?
  8. Hubac's Historian
    Thank you, Louie! Just wait until you see the actual stem/figurehead; the paint work in that really is the best of my ability. In particular, there is a greater depth of grey-shade on the white portion of the horse. This looks so good, IMO, that I have decided that the four continental figures will be done in this fashion; grey-shaded white flesh with gilded vestments. The Four Seasons figures will have natural flesh tones with gold leaf vestments, and possibly silver leaf washed with translucent green for the foliate head-dresses. I’ll have to see what that looks like. The Pixies will have natural fleshtones, gilded hair and bellflowers, and the same mottled green/grey tail treatment that I gave the figurehead. If the silver base/green wash effect looks good, I can use it for some of the smaller ornaments of the frieze. We shall see. I glued-in the stem before I left, and now need to get this trailboard patterned and carved, so that I can continue constructing the head. I did a little more rough sketching, last night. I’m close! As always your interest and support are greatly appreciated!
  9. Hubac's Historian
    Exquisite workmanship!
  10. Hubac's Historian
    I’m enjoying a very pleasant and relaxing family vacation in Dennis Port, Cape Cod. I was close to finishing up the amortisment crowns, so I brought them with me. I had to simplify the design a little bit; the fleur-de-lis are really tiny, so while the design calls for three, I found I could only really make a good relief for the central one. I’m also attempting to layout the trailboard, but it is difficult to reliably draw something so complicated onto styrene - the pencil skates across the surface. Even if I don’t come up with a polished design, I can at least work out the rough parameters, while I am away. Once I get home, I can layout the final onto vellum, photocopy it and then transfer the design to the part. The layout hinges upon the aft-most fleur, which is centered between the gammoning. You can appreciate, now, how the scale of the fleurs increases, as you move forward - this, owing to the tapered space between the knees of the head. Although, I would prefer to have three fleurs, I think that I will be hard-pressed to make that look good, in such a small space. I feel that a better impression of the original design, in this case, supersedes absolute fidelity. I can eventually align one headrail supporting timber with the aft fleur, but I won’t upset myself if the forward fleur does not neatly align with a headrail supporting timber. The Berain/Vary portraits show the headrail supports in-line with the shells, but that arrangement would mean that the fleurs are mostly hiding behind the gammoning. As a symbolic decorative element, it seems to me that the fleurs should be the most visible, and so, I have chosen to reverse that arrangement. As is sometimes the case with this modification project - the mere inclusion of missing details (trailboard, headrail supports) is an upgrade, even if they can’t be realistically rendered as a unified whole, where everything is in its proper place.
  11. Hubac's Historian
    Given these reasonable arguments for keeping the spritsail holes, and given that Lemineur shows them in his monograph for the St. Philippe, I would be inclined to represent them for this time in 1689. There’s a good chance, though, that my diorama won’t have the spritsails unfurled, so it is a moot point for this model.
  12. Hubac's Historian
    I did not know this. So, Druxey, is it incorrect to show this sail detail in the latter half of the 17th Century? The bowsprits of French ships, at this time, are pretty steeply raked.
  13. Hubac's Historian
    That is more than okay, John. I am gratified that you are getting useful insight from it all, and I really appreciate the kind words. I am happy to help others, as so many, here, have been extremely helpful to me. In large part, that is what this hobby is all about. You should check out EJ_L’s fine Soleil Royal build. I believe it is also the Sergal kit. EJ chose to make all of the ornaments from scratch and he made a fabulous first effort of it.
  14. Hubac's Historian
    You’re in plenty good shape, Henry. I have some main deck line leads to figure out (if I remember correctly, you already addressed this topic in your build) for the main tacks and sheets, but it will be a longtime before I advance beyond that point. It will be cool to make use of the chesstrees (sp?) that I added to the upper bulwarks. CF, I totally agree with you about restrained use of gold - that is, indeed, my strategy.
  15. Hubac's Historian
    What are you worried about Piet? You’re still the front-runner! I’ll give it til’ Sunday, 12 midnight, EST. If no one else responds, then you’re the Man!
  16. Hubac's Historian
    Ha! - Rigging is my weak spot. I may ask you to substantiate that. Then again Piet, or should I say Tourville?, you may win by default, if no one else ventures a guess. I will say that the rig looks mostly correct to my, as yet, untrained eyes. The glaring exception is the triple gammoning. This will be the first model that I am trying to rig in a fully authentic way, and will be referencing Popeye2Sea’s log quite a bit for that. One can see, though, just how dramatically improved the model is by cutting her down to the waterline. This builder did not even opt to raise the waterline, which helps even more with the impression of stability.
  17. Hubac's Historian
    So, I was just surfing around, as I often do, and I found this diorama gem of the Heller kit: I thought this might be a fun opportunity to play “HOW MANY MODIFICATIONS?!” Whomever can accurately identify the most kit alterations/additions (even if technically wrong), will have their likeness modeled as Tourville, on my model - to the best of my ability, in 1:100. GAME ON!! Side note: personally speaking - this is a fabulous model, and only a very few things jumped out at me as “huh?” I love so many things about this model - particularly the sails! How often does a modeler successfully represent a furled sail? 2nd side note: deviations from standard paint orthodoxy count!
  18. Hubac's Historian
    Alright, so this settles it for me. Super simple, and this two-color application produces a nice transitional effect. I applied the grey in a dabbing manner for a mottled appearance: Once this enamel wash was dry, I applied a thinned-down coat of the ver-de-gris, blow-dried the surface, and then applied a few successively heavier coats, drying in between. The body gradually becomes a deeper green, towards the tail. As long as I could still see the grey mottling beneath, then the effect would work: I finished painting the rest of the figure, and now this looks like the thing I was after: EJ, I can’t thank you enough for steering me in the right direction. I’m going to prime the actual figurehead and I’ll get busy painting it. I had thought I could paint after installation, but it is exponentially easier to paint before, and touch up later. I’ll have to touch up, anyway, when I re-attach the knee extensions.
  19. Hubac's Historian
    That is an interesting detail. When you consider it, of course it makes sense for there to be a more substantial mass off timber to absorb the recoil. Even at this late stage, this modification would be possible. I am not certain about how that would affect the height of the barrels through the ports. Fortunately, I am pretty certain that I made one or two extra carriages that I can experiment on. Thank you for bringing that to my attention.
  20. Hubac's Historian
    Yes, Mr. Delecroix - those are strips of masking tape for later, when I mount the gun carriages. I have affixed styrene blocking to the undersides of the gun carriages, which will later be blacked out with flat paint: I thought I still had a pic of the blocking, but in any case, the glue block runs down the center of the carriage, between the axles. It was a calculated gamble, on my part, that the blackout paint will sufficiently hide the blocks. Even though structural integrity of the glue joint is not important, here, I prefer to make a more solid connection.
  21. Hubac's Historian
    Henry, I was probably using the wrong term, “block,” but this is what I had in mind for the tack fairleads: You can see the styrene shim, at the base, which was necessary in order to get a close scribe to the stem and plinth base. I added the through-bolting of the cutwater, which are actually two pieces - a diamond shaped washer and a tiny domed projection of styrene rod, on top: I have a tight scribe of the trailboard blank to the cutwater and stem. I won’t be able to scribe it to the upper head knee until after the cutwater is fixed in place: Once I have an exact size for the blank, I’ll re-draw the trailboard filigree. Ideally, the fleur-de-lis should align with the head timber supports. Realistically, though, this may need to be an area of compromise. I would rather have a good looking trailboard layout, than one that seems cramped to fit within and around the parameters of the gammoning. I have not decided yet, Dan, whether I will fill and move the gammoning holes. I was at my buddy’s house this weekend, and so I took a few head shots of my first Soleil Royal, as a reminder of the stock spacing of the whole assembly: Ideally, one of the fleurs should be centered between the gammoning. Because my headrails are now a good 1/8” short of where they need to land behind the figurehead, I do not think that I will be able to use them. I will try to heat-stretch them, because I have an extra set, but I am not optimistic about that outcome. It’s just a super complicated area. Once I can work out a trailboard layout that accommodates the current arrangement of the gammoning, I can begin patterning new headrails in cardboard, with headrail timbers that are interspersed around the gammoning. If no good layouts are possible with the gammoning where it is, then I will have to move the gammoning. EJ, I’ve been thinking about your comments on color, and I am inclined to agree. Then, it dawned on me that the color gouache Vary portrait has what I think can be taken as a literal guide for this sort of period stylized/naturalistic coloring. All of the cues are in the border of the portrait: There is also this coloration of the Berain drawing of L’Agreable’s stern, which I think is a useful guide to colors: So, what I will do on the starboard half of my spare figurehead is to darken the grey wash that I first applied to the horse, but I will do it in a graduated scale that gets darker as you approach the tail. Then I will apply the same translucent green wash that I use to simulate ver-de-gris on the guns. This, too, will be applied from light to dark. I will basecoat the Pixie’s face, arms and legs with random tan. A very light walnut ink wash will pick out some of the facial detail, while modulating the skin tone. Finally, I have a translucent red wash that, if applied very lightly, should round out the skin tone. I’ll finish by picking out the same details in gold. I have cleaned to the outline of the amortisement crowns, and they are now ready to carve: And so, we’ll see what all of that looks like. Thank you for your likes, your comments and for looking in.
  22. Hubac's Historian
    This isn’t my best paint work, and I haven’t completed the starboard side gold work, but I am looking for some feedback on this approach to the figurehead. Does this seem 17th C. French to you guys, or something else?
  23. Hubac's Historian
    Just really beautiful, clean work, Mike!
  24. Hubac's Historian
    Yes, because these head timbers correspond with the headrail supports. Here are a few pictures of my favorite model of L’Ambiteaux. The bow shot illustrates all of these design considerations quite nicely:
  25. Hubac's Historian
    Dan, you are definitely correct that the positioning of the headrails has the most influence concerning the placement of the gammoning. I will have to make a decision sooner, rather than later as to whether I will make the headrails from scratch. Yet another issue of the Heller kit is that there is very little clearance for the headrail supports that the kit (and Tanneron’s model, for that matter) has omitted. Making the headrails from scratch might give me a few extra millimeters clearance, while also solving the problem of the forward headrail scroll rising above the bowsprit mast, which it should not.

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