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Keith Black

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Everything posted by Keith Black

  1. Rob, that's the way I see it shown on models, over or under but a H&H photographic of the Tennessee shows the boom mounted in front of the main and fore lower yards and the attached drawing shows the boom in front. I was torn when I built the main and fore lower yards regarding the boom and still am but, they're both made the way they are, right, wrong, or indifferent. I want to thank you again for your Great Republic build. I go to your build constantly searching for answers to my many questions.
  2. Siggi, the hull is drop dead gorgeous, I don't see any faults whatsoever.
  3. Tom, I am deeply sorry to hear of Uncle Jon's passing. My condolences to you and your family.
  4. Chris, very nice. Are you using a brush, if so it looks great. All that prep work has payed off.
  5. Keith, watch the link in Brian's post above. It makes sense now. Thank you, Brian for posting.
  6. Keith, see the drawing in post #278. That boom (if this is the one you're talking about) is level with the spar per photos of the Tennessee. I've seen that boom modeled on the top side of the spar which doesn't make sense to me but I have a steep learning curve ahead of me. The Tennessee does have those booms on the main and fore lower yards which I've modeled see post #243 and 257.
  7. I don't know that more uses for wood is a good idea? Wish they were using plastic waste.
  8. TNWNHM, welcome to MSW. I hope you start a build log and share your work with us. Enjoy your stay.
  9. Keith, I have no photographic evidence that the Tennessee employed studding sail booms so I'll not be adding them. But because of the way they're employed I don't see that there would be interference with the jackstays. Those more knowledgeable than I need to speak to this matter.
  10. Pat, Brian, Gary, MCB, Will, Rob, and Kevin, thank you for your supportive comments and kind words. Thank you to all for visiting and for the likes. I stopped whining about the jackstays and got on with it, now all spars have their jackstays installed. One thing that helped was, I increased the drill size by a thousandth which made inserting the eye pin shanks easier. I also developed a rhythm by having all pieces necessary for each spar made ready to place when work commenced. In other words, I tried working smarter and it helped. No photos till all the spars are have the foot rope stirrups installed, (installing them is like working with 2x4's after the jackstay eyebolts) spars painted, and the foot ropes run. Rob, I thought about this approach at length. One would have to support the wire at both ends on a third hand with all the eye pins strung. Then each eye pin would have to be weighted to hang straight down and not rise up when CA was applied or the tiny things would be drawn to the CA like a magnet. Spacing wouldn't be critical as long as you marked each correctly. An advantage would be that the holes could be oversized. Should I ever do this again at 1:120 I might try this method. Thank you for the suggestion. Will, I currently depend on my reading glasses. I need to get off my lazy duff and order a OptiVisor per Gary's suggestion. Speaking of Gary, thank for the gentle push.
  11. Beautiful hull, Ilhan. Great to see a update.
  12. Allan, when I retired my wife said it was "too much man and not enough money".
  13. Victor, welcome to MSW. I look forward to seeing a build log with your name on it. For you, rigging should come pretty easy with your knot tying abilities.
  14. Wonderful job, Kevin. My understanding is white paint was used as much as possible inside the gunnels and tops to help a sailor's vision at night. The white areas of the America Vespucci's mast are the same as on the Tennessee.
  15. Iraymo, the repaired rib looks good. You can see it with camera magnification but I bet you have to look hard to see it when viewed normally.
  16. This does look like a neat kit. If I wasn't tied up with my current project plus the other kits I have in waiting, I'd be a buyer. Buying kits and building them are two different hobbies.
  17. LOL, if I had a nickel every time that same thing has happened to me......... Beautiful work, Will, she's looking sharp!
  18. Iraymo, you're not going to paint a Mona Lisa the first time you pick up a paint brush. This is your first build, it's a learning experience and I think you've done a wonderful job considering it is your first build. The next one will be better and the one after that will be better yet. I really do think it looks good. One thing, when gluing, if your using yellow glue, use a water moistened Q-Tip to wick away excess glue. If your using CA (super glue) use a dry Q-Tip. This will save you time and help in the overall appearance of your model. Regarding the broken rib, try fixing it by carving a piece to fit the break. It may not work but it's good practice. You have to try, just like you did the repair on the plank and that came out swell. You'll get there, patience is definitely a virtue when it comes to modeling.
  19. Jeff, first off, thank you of your service. Second, welcome to MSW. I hope you'll start a build and let us follow along.
  20. Beautiful hull. Most of the time paint hides the sins of the builder, it your case, Siggi, the paint is hiding the craftsmanship of the of the builder. But that painted hull is pleasing to the eye and historically correct.
  21. Trond, it appears they have to be sanded to shape. It's either sand to shape or make your own pieces.
  22. Pat, the photo in #648 is really neat. Lovely work.
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