DSiemens
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If by smoking the bottle you mean adding a white foggy look then I have just the thing. I learned this accidentally since it wasn't what I intended but it may be what your looking for. Any how I've used super glue since I started. For a patience bottle builder I'm not very patient with my glue. There's a major problem with it when it comes to bottling ships though. Early on I would glue my lines down cut them off and seal up the completed bottle. This was all well and good except that the fumes from the super glue would eventually fog up the inside of the bottle. Then I would spend hours cleaning out the white fog from the glass. I learned I had to glue the lines then turn the bottle opening up and wait a good five minutes before I sealed up the bottle. If you want a smokey look though grab a glass soda bottle from the store and try putting a drop of super glue in it and sealing it up. Might be what your looking for. Also if you spread a nice thin layer on one side and then cut into it with an exacto blade you can get a cracked glass look with out cracking the glass. Learned that one putting seagulls in flying around the bottle. -
You are right Amati is the only kit that sells well. I'm referring mainly to Wood Krafters which I do like as a good beginning kit. Trouble is Wood Krafters has a lot of variations but you can't find them any where. Other kits like Woody Joe are also hard to find. There just isn't that many out there. As far as kit's go I don't like the Amati kit. Mostly because the brass mast and spars but then those can be changed out.. It's mostly because of how hard it is to get the ship in the bottle. SIB building doesn't have to be as hard as the Amati Hannah makes it. I can't say so much for the Golden Yacht I've never seen that one in person or on a forum. I'm not saying don't do kits either. Kits are a great way to start. I started with a Wood Krafters Pirate ship. I highly recommend that kit for beginners. I think though that most people on this forum would find it too childish. I guess what I'm saying is kit's in SIB building are very limited and it almost forces you to expand to scratch building. There is so much to the art of SIB building. There's split hulls, eight or nine ways of raising the mast, and several different rigging techniques. You can't fit that all into a kit. So yes it's a good way to start and do as many kit's as you want before scratch building. If you really want to do it though get a book or dig around online and learn scratch building. I find it less intimidating than the larger static scratch building. Because of the scale many of the details can be left out. Also since it started as a folkart many SIB builders are very lenient when it come to scale and realism. Any way I've ranted enough. I'm obviously over passionate about this so take anything I say with a grain of salt and do as you wish. Ship modeling should be fun after all.
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Dan I think you just discovered a new way to put in the mast. I've often put in a small divot where the mast rests which is a similar method but you created the actual step. I'm liking the pipe idea too. Can't wait to see more.
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I can't say I've ever heard of them. Found a website with it but it's out of stock. Seems like that happens a lot with ship in bottle kits. It's hard to find any of the Wood Krafters kits that aren't pirate ships. It's an intimidating hobby. I don't think the kits sell very well. Honestly though knowing what I know now I wouldn't do more than one kit. It's good for getting your feet in the water but scratch building sib's is the way to go. Get a book like Don Hubbards Ships in Bottles and scratch build a couple plans he has in there. It's ok if it looks more on the folk art side when you start out. Once you do a few of those you can build anything you want for way less money than kit's will cost you. My best ship so far the Mercury I built for less than $10.
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On the dead eyes did you cut and drill them one by one or drill three deep holes into a dowel and then cut it into slices? Either way your method us giving me ideas.
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Those darn bowsprits are always a problem. I've broken more than a few. Be careful to make sure the fix is secure. The bow takes a lot of tension when raising the mast and fixing it in the bottle is tough work. She's looking great so far. I particularly like the color of the hull. I look forward to seeing more.
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You got the right answer as far as glue. I've tried using super glue in bottles and it will fog the glass. I still use it on the lines once their pulled tight but I leave the bottle open with opening up for at least five minutes so the fumes can escape. Good idea on the fore coarse. I like sails on sibs but they do often mask the hard work put into the hull. Leaving one or two off helps with that. Great work so far. I look forward to seeing her in the bottle.
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Great choice in bottles Dan. Dimples are some of the best. Your work even at this scale is outstanding. She's going to look great.
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Great work Igor. She's amazing. I love all the details. They can be very difficult especially at this scale. Your work is very clean though, every thing is ship shape. I look forward to seeing more.
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- colin archer
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Original Ship in Bottle Methods, Materials, Tools
DSiemens replied to DSiemens's topic in Nautical/Naval History
One of these day's I'd like to try it out. I"m not sure how my wife would feel about boiling fish though.- 2 replies
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- Ship in Bottle
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Your making some real progress now and she's looking great! I think the real fun starts once the hull is carved. Your comment reminded me of a line I heard once. We could dance till the cows come home. On second thought I'd rather dance with the cows till you come home. - Groucho Marx
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Awesome job Carl. She looks great. The lines are nice and tight and I like the wood stand you've made.
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Looking good Nathan. The rigging is the fun part. The ship really comes alive when the rigging starts coming together.
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I used to work for a company pruning trees some years back and learned just a few things about different methods. I want to say those bent trees are grafted at the roots judging by the sharp corner it takes at the base and then they were probably forced into that shape as saplings. I hadn't heard of wood being bent while the tree was still growing but that would make a lot of sense. The grain would follow the shape needed and make carving out the piece a lot easier.
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Mike, I get them from every where. Once people learn you build ships in bottles they just start bringing them to you. I've probably received three or four from work and a dozen from my ship modeling club. The best are the top shelf liquor bottles. I'm not sure what brand it was but the bottle I used for the Mercury (see my build log in my signature) was by far my favorite. The clarity was great and the opening was wider than the usual half inch that most bottle are. Some modelers go for scientific glass. This offer's the best clarity but I couldn't tell you where to find it. I'm sure it's expensive as well. I think a little distortion ads to the magic...and hides a mistake or two. Your right about the inexpensive part. There was a time a few years ago when my budget got real tight and I had run out of wood. I wanted to keep building so I went to the store and got a $3 box of match sticks. I built a plank on bulkhead cutter out of them. I spent $8 on a syrup bottle and another couple bucks on the string and paint which was stretched across a lot more builds. All told it cost less than $20. There's a log on it here some some where look up the Fly Cutter. Any way it's an great hobby to get into.
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Great work on the Amati Carl. It's a tough build especially getting it into the bottle. Mike's given some great advice. If your interested in ship in bottle techniques the best websites out there, at least in my opinion, I've put in the links section of my blog. http://www.siemensbottlingco.blogspot.com/p/links.html I especially recommend the Facebook forum and Michael Bardet's website and Folk art in Bottles. There's a lot of great information out there. Good luck getting her in the bottle. For as tough as it can be it's the most satisfying part.
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Great work Mike! I've seen this one built before and honestly it looks tough. The brass etchings are unforgiving and it didn't leave you a lot of room in the bottle neck. You did great though she's awesome. If you do end up scratch building your own I think you'll find it easier then this one and a lot of fun. It's an addicting craft.
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Great work Igor. I especially like your planking and metal work. I look forward to seeing the progress on this build.
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Great work Igor. With all the glass on the bottom I think it looks like it's sailing on glass. The tiny ones are a lot of fun.
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HALF MOON by jct - FINISHED - Corel
DSiemens replied to jct's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1501 - 1750
Great work! I agree with every one else she's beautiful. You really did an awesome job. -
I wish I could say I made it up but it's been done long before I ever built ships. It's possible the first ships in bottles in the 1780's used the technique. Here's an example of a pirate ship I built. I based my practice model on this one. All but the mizzen mast went into the bottle after the hull. The ratlines were glued to the side of the ship in the bottle. The part of the technique I like the most is that the hull is bigger then the opening leaving people really questioning how the ship got in there and it really fills the bottle up.
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I have a concept I'm trying out that I may use for this build. There's a couple aspects to it. First showing the planking of the ship and second build better gun ports. I quickly carved a concept ship to test it out. This is actually a split hull. It splits just below the wale so I can fit a bigger ship in a bottle then the bottle neck allows. I painted the hull black and planked over it to bring out the ports. I then added cannons made from the black wire in an old cell phone charger. I'm happy with how it turned out though I need to go slower and make better measurements if I'm going to use this technique in an actual build.
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