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GrandpaPhil

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Posts posted by GrandpaPhil

  1. Quick note, and good news, for anyone looking at this model or any of the rest of Orel’s line, I got a newsletter from Orel’s retail website, Plastic-Model Store.

     

    Orel Models got their building, with all equipment, back and will be restarting production with their full line of kits and extra detail sets in the near future.

     

    Orel has a very large range of transition era ships and predreadnoughts.

     

    Most are 1/200 scale!

  2. I have never seen GPM’s upgrade kits, but I am seriously looking at the Shipyard rigging fitting sets for this and my Victory (1:98).

     

    Rigging fittings at 1/96 scale are almost too small for my tooling.

     

    I probably could make them, but Shipyard has very nice complete sets.

     

    Plus, their research has been most excellent, as is their plan sets.  So I am sure that they are complete.

     

    And then I can scale their fitting set up 50%, duplicate it and use the fittings for my future Winchelsea build too.

     

    PS: from what I’ve seen of the their Victory kit, it looks as completely detailed out as the their Mercury and it retails for less than $40 at Ages Of Sail.

  3. I have had a lot of fun with card kits (and card modeling in general).

     

    The Shipyard 30th Anniversary combo sets are very nice.

     

    All of the Shipyard kits are very nice.

     

    I don’t think I have ever seen the level of detail in these kits, from any other kit manufacturer (at least from the ones I’ve built), in any medium.

     

    If you try one, you won’t be disappointed.

     

    Card lends itself very handily to ship models, both for kits and for scratch building.

     

    Also, there is not much difference between scratch and kit building with card ships (the same applies to wood ship models as well).

     

    So, it is an easy jump to scratch building if that is where your inclination lies.

  4. On 1/14/2019 at 9:42 PM, GrandpaPhil said:

    To make deadeyes I’ve been using dowel rods.  I started by cutting the grooves with a knife.  Make sure when cutting the groove you make the first cut from the outside-in, otherwise the wood will split.   Next, I cut the deadeyes off.  Then I drill the holes and sand the deadeyes smooth.  

     

    I started out predilling the holes in the dowel rod, but that caused alignment problems.

     

     I used an Excel hobby knife with a #11 X-Acto blade and a pinvise.

    92B4D311-1878-46C7-8626-9557174ED8E8.jpeg

    1E74BAF8-178F-451C-B802-F5F542233CA0.jpeg

    158B904C-798E-4BD3-8CB0-41BDDBF12CC0.jpeg

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    That’s how I did it using a knife, a pinvise and a razor saw.

     

    It would work for the 5mm, but for smaller deadeyes, it’s tricky unless you have a high density wood.

     

    I usually buy smaller deadeyes.

  5. I like to seal brass (as well as other metal/wood/plastic/resin/card) fittings with a sealant (so the paint sticks better) and then have a paint-a-thon.


    Then, you can just assembly line them and paint a whole bunch at one time.

     

    I should also state that I typically brush paint with acrylics.

  6. I personally like sails.  

    It adds something to the model, for me at least.  So, I make sails for all my models (I like 1/72 scale models, generally speaking).

     

    Having said that, it’s a lot of work and sometimes they come out right, sometimes they don’t.

     

    I just bought the sail making supplement from Seawatch Books, to learn how to make sails from silk span.  The test model is going to be my 1/200 Solferino.

     

    I sewed the other ones I’ve made for my other models.

     

     

     

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