GrandpaPhil

Working on the second planking:

I am using actual drop planks and stealer planks for the first time ever.

Incredible work!

Thank you very much!

It is wood grain contact paper that is intended for cabinets.

It works quite well.

One pile O’ planking:

That should almost be enough planking to second plank up to the second wales.

The second set of wales are on and the first ones are painted:

I suppose I should start laying down some second planking.

This planking won’t need “tar” between the planks, because the entire hull will be painted IAW the Matthew Baker drawing.

The only bare “wood” will be the deck planking.

That will look better in my personal opinion and provide some contrast.

The planks will be approximately 9/32” wide by 4 1/2” long to simulate 18” wide by 24’ long planks.

I ordered another model off my bucket list.

I have been wanting a Wasa for a while.

I thought about using the Sergal plans or the Corel plans.

However, the Wasa museum says that their hull shapes are wrong.

Orel’s research has been pretty good so far, plus the kit is published in the red color scheme.

So, I ordered the Orel card kit.

I will use it as a guide and basically rescale everything to 1/64 like my Revenge (I’m enjoying this model).

Then I’ll use the parts as patterns to make my own pieces and build from there.

Very cool!

Nice job on the cavalry!

Very nice!

I bought the E-Book off Amazon and it has been a phenomenal reference for me.

For myself, my primary kit consists of a scalpel, a razor saw, a good pin vise with a swivel head, various tweezers, various sandpapers, a couple machinist scales (metric and imperial), a steel ruler, diagonal cutters, pliers, steel pins, clamps, a self healing mat, a good pair of scissors and a couple of coping saws.

I do not typically use power tools with the exception of a regular electric drill that I use for larger holes, like masts.

Power tools can save time, but if they slip, they can do a lot of damage very quickly.

For glues, I primarily use a max-cure CA and Mont Marte PVA glue that I bought off Amazon.

Steven,

  Your Cerberus came out quite nicely. 
 

I’m not at all surprised that it sold very quickly.  

You did a nice job of it.

Very cool!  Thank you very much for the information!

Very nicely done!
 

What is this?

Here is the planked transom:

LOL!  Indeed my friend!

Here’s that pile of parts:

That was a lot.

Here is the transom piece:

It is nearly ready to install on the Revenge.

I copied the pattern that came with the plan set.

The lower wales are painted now and the hull is ready to take the transom once it dries for a bit and I trim the upper edges and the gunport.

I am going to step out of sequence again and install the middle wales prior to planking above the lower wales.

I like having my actual wales in place before second planking because it serves as a nice guide.

I have already made the middle wales themselves and just need to install them.

This model is supremely well designed.  

I am glad that I bought this plan set.

Yes.

Adding flags is typically my last step in a model.

Hahn’s book “The Colonial Schooner” has a complete discussion about how he built his model of the Hannah.

Based off what I’ve seen of your work, I second the opinion that you would not have any difficulty with making shrouds or ratlines.

Your galleon is looking great!

Welcome!

Here is the ensign staff on my Victory:

Here is the sheave:

The pile O’ parts mostly ready to use continues to grow:

The pile O’ parts that need further processing continues to shrink:

Very cool!

Nicely done!

Wales are on:

The wales will be painted black in the near future IAW the Matthew Baker drawing prior to any more planking being laid down.

And the test fit of the final base looks really good.

I thought about using it for the Victory and then for the Mercury.

But, I’m not sure what I’m doing with either of those builds.

And it will look really good with the Revenge.

The keel is on:

Working on the wales now.