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cog

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Everything posted by cog

  1. It seems I do not have to retype my response as the previous posts state my findings. I do hope you will get the railings up soon for this geriatric with his 4x4. Lovely work Steve Cheers
  2. Another marvelous build from the Paddy Yard. You really know how to build them mate. Love those compartments on the sides for the toys ...
  3. If I used my eyes, Jo ... well it is more something like a "Fingerspitzengefühl" what you will be missing after sanding according to your writings Everybody improves, even I did, although not noticeably There is just one dilemma where are the photographs ...?
  4. Vinyl makes it bounce around, like any other hard floor. You should put a sheet on the floor, at least you've got a chance finding it in the spot where it dropped.
  5. Jo, Ulises is right. Maybe not at once with your first build, but that's the beauty of it all, you can go on to your next build and know things will get easier, and we can see you improve with every plank you shape
  6. Can't imagine, to expensive, takes to long (another trip for them to get galvanised), whilst at sea a paint bucket is at hand, never seen a "galvaniser bath" at a ship ... the whole process is a pain to execute on board, with all the different stadia, I don't know about the cold method which we can use now, but I know it isn't as good as the hot tub and wonder if it was available at WWII yet
  7. Anywhere they sell model railroad materials, Greg. A lot of brass rods, and tubing is used in that. BNA Models downundah has them, just checked their site
  8. Tell me about it, I work at 1/350. I can relate to the feeling. I do, however, find a pair of magnifying glasses quite helpful against the splitting headache, besides diminishing the time working in succession on the model. Good lighting is another important factor
  9. Didn't have much time this week. Put some Tamiya putty on the hull, sanded it the next day, and reapplied. Will have some more sanding to do, and hopefully get on to priming the hull this weekend. Received new filters for my spraybooth today, the old ones were completely clogged. Looking forward to your constructive comments Denis!
  10. You are simplifying things a wee bit to far Denis. You should stick to yer spinach!!!
  11. Please accept my appologies for my misunderstanding, and base my conslusion on that So Dick could be right ... (just to rub it in), but we shall never know. Just like his remark on the bread basket Then considering the other matter, you could have lowered the "horns" in which the masts, and yards are laid to rest for were those really that high ... or were they just high enough to help the masts drop on those supports ...
  12. have you checked shapways.com (3d printing) I got quite a few bits and pieces for my WWII destroyers from them. There are some which will make parts to specs an example
  13. Salty Dog, do you have your own buildlog of the Mikasa at MSW? I would like to see a bit more if possible
  14. You could have lowered it a couple of mm's ... (and the others as well) if we have to go by what Dick wrote: the spurs are to long
  15. It seems the varnish brings out the structure of the wood. You could try a mat varnish to see what effect that will give. It will never be really flat, so give it a try
  16. You don't have to say sorry to us, we are mere spectators. Your audience if you want. I am curious as to how this will develop ... first step taken.
  17. You can dilute lacquer too my friend. Acrylic paints can be applied rather thin. When I look at my plastic builds, I used rattle can lacquer, and those still show the details.
  18. My reason for asking: I found the colours rather lifeless, flat, I might have added a satin finish, it would look more like the finish on HMS Victory, or L'Hermione's replica ... c'est tout
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