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realworkingsailor

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Everything posted by realworkingsailor

  1. I think I need to open a window and cool this place down..... A furnace has nothing on us... Anyway...
  2. There's a chance they could also be ballast guns. It was common practice to take condemned guns, knock the trunnions off them and use them as ship's ballast. In the event of a wreck, if any salvage was attempted, they would have been ignored. Andy
  3. Yeah.. I see that... We'll just have to pull the two tables together and really class up the joint...
  4. Thanks guys. Another 30 more days or so and I should be ready to pick up where I left off... and dive into another, slightly different, project. Andy
  5. Very nice..... But you can't defer planking for ever.... just like ratlines.... don't deny the inevitable (and that should be #1999) Andy
  6. Unfortunately, once you've bonded two pieces of styrene together with plastic cement... There's nothing that will "dissolve" the joint. Both pieces are litterally welded together to become one. Andy (And that's my anti penultimate post as a "captain" )
  7. As long as you continue to use the same ruler every time, the error should be constant... rather than random.... Still.... something for everyone to be aware of. Andy
  8. Too much haste to get something posted before the crowd mutineed....
  9. For the sake of simplicity... It has to go to Dave... I think I missed the "jr" when I went for the photo... My bad... He still guessed the right ship, though not the one I intended... Andy
  10. Always disassemble the airbrush when you clean. Especially the needle and nozzle. Dried paint will clog it up and is virtually impossible to get out at that point. If you have paint in the airbrush cup, dispose of it, wipe out the cup and cycle some thinner (or water if using acrylic) through the brush. Repeat until the spray is almost clear (check by spraying onto some paper towel). At this point, you can start to disassemble the air brush (of course turn the air off first). You should also look into getting some cleaning brushes to help scrub paint out of the harder to reach areas. Badger makes a set of very fine brushes that will penetrate the needle way almost to the nozzle. Andy
  11. Xuron tools are top quality, probably some of the best. The price is higher for a reason. Andy
  12. Kevin, do you have a set of these? http://www.micromark.com/professional-sprue-cutter,9277.html They will help immensely. Andy
  13. For sprue cutting: http://www.micromark.com/professional-sprue-cutter,9277.html These things work great. Always keep the flush side towards the part and you'll have minimal part cleanup Andy
  14. Well, it's not the schoonmaker. But it is the Snyder. Still sailing today as the St. Mary's Challenger. The oldest continuously working laker currently. Andy
  15. Wash and paint the pieces first. It may seem tedious, but it's worth it. As for a working cradle, I use one of these: http://www.bowser-trains.com/foamcradle.html Andy
  16. Ok, ok.... no need to go all mushy on me, buddy..... I'm sure you're have done it sooner or later on your own. Andy
  17. There's nothing really wrong with MS paints. I just find they need quite a bit of thinning to be usable. You'll need to mix them about 2 parts paint to 1 part thinner, for brush applications (airbrushing would almost need 1:1, you'd have to experiment). Although they are acrylic, don't use water, use clear Windex (as opposed to blue) or something similar if you can get it down there. Andy
  18. As promised. Any of her names may do.
  19. I've got one lined up, just hang 'til 20:00 EDT
  20. Good luck with this one. We'll all be here to answer questions as best we can. Do you think you'd ever work up the nerve to try a wooden ship some day?
  21. RMS Empress of Asia, 1913 Thought I recognized a CP steamship.....
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