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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Nice work yet again Dan. Starting to look like?? Your effort is every bit as good as a builder's model with perhaps even better detail. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Hi Rob, just found your build and had a quick scan, but will need to peruse more closely. What a great subject and build. I wish I was as quick in building cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    That is very nice work again Eberhard. I seem to never have the right sized piece to be held in a similar soldering pad I have - I always have to use shims or the like cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    That's an impressive build and paint job Greg - that one can go straight to the 'pool room' (an Aussie reference for International viewers :)) cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Great progress Danny; looking really good. Its a pity the top card layer (thwarts, bottom planks etc) was not a two-piece set to give a sense of depth inside the boats; other than that they look really good. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Very consistent quality work; a joy to see. cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Nice machine work Eberhard; thanks for showing 'how' cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Hi Dave, just to clarify, the 'cleats' not the shrouds kept twisting - not sitting at 90 degrees to the shroud (i.e facing inboard); finally sorted doing it in a similar fashion to you. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback and links. Now to order and get manufacturing cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Great progress Mark, looks like you have those dockyard workers busy again. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Great detail work and explanation Ed; you would think this was an actual ship being rigged. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Thanks for all the further great ideas folks; much appreciate this. My main purpose of this jig would be to hold small pieces, such as brass strip, in position while soldering. Therefore the main components will be the surrounding frame with slots and articulated fingers and arms (interchangeable) with a soldering/heat resistant base. The ideas of other materials merit further consideration. Eberhard, I am trying to picture those curtain rails as the less manufacturing I have to do the better. Can you post a picture please? The hardest part for me will be making those fingers as finding "Brass' knobs/thumbscrews" is proving much more difficult than I had thought - most eBay offering for instance are aluminium. cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    That binnacle came up a treat Dave; nice finishes. You have also done a very tidy job on those shroud cleats; they kept twisting on me. Seems you found the knack of keeping them straight very quickly cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    You have made some great (and rapid) progress with this build Denis; she is looking really good already. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Welcome aboard Oscar, look forward to seeing some of your builds. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Very nice work on the frames John, she looks good on her build board. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    You are making great progress with Alfred Gary; very nice work on the framing and planking. Some great adice along the way - thanks! cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Great work Danny, you make it look easy but I know you put a lot of work into that - the result speaks for itself. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Also try the 'box' making forums, I think they still use these sorts of hinges and may be able to point you to a reliable source. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Some very nice progress there Denis, looking good! cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Nice progress Russ, the planking is looking good; I like the colour/tone of the wood you are using. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Hi BW and thanks for looking in. As yet I have not been able to relocate that text. I have got in a very bad habit lately of not bookmarking interesting things as I read. I think unhinging of the rudder, while not a common thing, happened more often than we might think as the article I am trying to relocate suggested as much - when hitting sand bars etc. WRT the additional chain, I think in this case these were longer versions of rudder chains so they could be used for steering also. I am forming a 'half-baked' theory at the moment that the 'preventer' element of the chain may have terminated at (shackled to) an eye, and these extra lengths would have been used as required for steering as shown by Harland (see earlier graphic). The interesting bit is this elusive reference to a "Lang's emergency tiller" - similar to a reference to a "Lang's eye in the channels" - I simply cannot find any drawings or reference other than that fleeting reference in the Mechanic's Magazine. I'll keep you posted. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Very nice work on the rudder and fittings Jason. It bodes well for a very nice model with the care and attention to research you are doing. For consideration only, I invested in a punch kit plastic modellers use which can punch many sizes and styles of head from a very thin foil. A bit tricky positioning but they do provide a more realistic result when painted. Not trying to get you to change your current work, just for the future if that is what you are trying to achieve. I have a set of the the Small Shop - The nutter set - for blind, bolts and rivets which I got from Historex - I have no connection with them whatsoever, simply where I got mine cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Looking good OC; great progress despite the oops moment cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Hi Steve, I am building an 1855 launched warship that featured clipper style rigging. I have not come across this before either, but some background reading I did during research for my build may help resolve the question. One of the issues I came across was, that to get sufficient clearance of the bulwarks brom the shrouds due to their lead angles, some channels were extra wide; whereas in some clippers/packets etc this was resolved by leading the shrouds inboard of the bulwarks. The ship I am building only had a low bulwark but some had very high ones to protect gun crews and deck personnel, which was problematical for getting a fair lead for the shrouds. The bulwarks on my build, HMCCC Victoria, were formed from 'roughtree timbers' which were not extensions of the frames etc and therefore were not as strong. Therefore the channels could not be attached to them. Putting this together, perhaps, in the two channel ships, a POSSIBLE reason is that the lower one provided the strength for anchoring the shroud as it was attached to the hull proper, while the upper may simply have been a spacer to clear the rails etc. Ed and co will be better placed to answer this. cheers Pat

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