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Everything posted by BANYAN
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Danny you have really mastered this building medium very quickly; very nice work and great detailing at that scale. cheers Pat
- 295 replies
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Hi Ed, very nice work and a great explanation of techniques as we have come to expect. Maybe a silly question in that I have missed it, but how do you get the futtock deadeye lower eyes through the small trestles? Are the holes drilled and squared large enough to accept the eye or do you expand the lower eye after threading through as a flattened piece? cheers Pat
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- young america
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Very nice work Danny, especially noting the scale you are working at. cheers Pat
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Solder and brass blackening
BANYAN replied to Cabbie's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
For irregular surfaces also try those refillable fibre bristle propelling pens BUT do take care not to get a fibre remnant in your hands/fingers as they are a real pain to remove They clean surfaces really well and I find it not even necessary to do any other prep on small items; although treatment to remove finger oils etc if not wearing gloves is recommended. cheers Pat -
Great smithing Ed, they look very good! I sure hope there is enough strength in them at the tips/ends to sustain the pressure of the shrouds and preventers etc without them bending or will the cantilever action reduce this a little? cheers Pat
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ancre Chebece 1750 by Jeronimo - FINISHED
BANYAN replied to Jeronimo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Sorry to hear about the water damage Karl; but I bet the new version will be even better. Any salvageable parts to save a little time? cheers Pat -
Looks really good greg; you are really getting a handle on that airbrushing now. cheers Pat
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Nice work Danny, she is coming together very nicely. Do you finish these card models off with a coat of lacquer? I ask as paper/card does not have the longevity of wood and wonder how long they will last without some preservation. cheers Pat
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Ed, one idea (if not too late) for the leather; on my Endeavour I used Brown paper to simulate the leather lining - right thickness and very pliable. I used a sharp pencil tip to simulate tacks where needed, and applied with dullcoat (lacquer) which stuck to the paper and provided a leather like look cheers Pat
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Really looking good now Russ, those cap rails added that 'finished' look to the bulwarks. cheers Pat
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- captain roy
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Quite a lot of progress Greg and looking really hood. That 'pagoda' tower was big! I like the paint effect you achieved on it, even to the camera it looks good. cheers Pat
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Thanks for taking the time to explain and share the dimensions of your jigs Ed, very much appreciated. Now that I understand the principle it all makes sense and shows the experience you bring with your ideas. Your YA books are on my Christmas list I have recently trawled your Naiad volumes again, and find the information and practical advice relevant to all model building, kit bashing as well as scratch building any model, very helpful. The Masting and Rigging volume of YA will be particularly valuable as most reference books, except for David Antscherl's Vol 4 of TFFM, only address the principles of these disciplines ;whereas, your effort is written with a more practical aspect of "how to". As YA is more relevant to my era of interest, I will find this log and your forthcoming volume very helpful. cheers Pat
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Hi Ed, many thanks for your photos of the jigs and YA; she is looking stunning in that shot and I know you still have a lot of rigging detail to add. I am a 'little thick' when it comes to visualising some things and having difficulty in understanding your comment about the centre line screw at the top, in the top jig, so that a curved spar will lie flat? I thought that laying them in the V groove would hold them, what is the purpose of creating the curve then straightening it with a wedge? I am sure there is a reason otherwise you would not have done it. I have assumed the curve was in the lateral dimension, but you may mean the longitudinal dimension? If the latter, does that mean the bottom end of the bed sits on the base and forms an expanding gap into which you drive the wedge at an appropriate point to cause a bend such the tip of the rounded spar sits at the bottom of the groove (for support while working it)? Could you also, if it is not giving too much away (from your forthcoming book) provide the dimensions of your cams? I understand that different shapes/sizes may be needed for different stock but this would be a good starting point (and I admit my self-interest here as I am also working 1:72) cheers Pat
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Some really nice detail you have achieved on those turrets Danny. cheers Pat
- 295 replies
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Quite the lady of the sea now Russ with all her skirts on, she only needs the 'ruffles' to look the complete part very nice lines to this model. cheers Pat
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- captain roy
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Hi Pete, I have read a discussion in either Underhill (Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Transport), or Kipping (Rudimentary Treatise on Masting), about the shape of the bowsprit in which there is a discussion that some bowsprits had a flattened upper / topside and some had blocks (steps) to assist access along the bowsprit. These were supplemented by the use of manropes with the outboard end secured to the Cap and the inboard at two vertical stanchions at the head timbers/knightheads. I can't recall which at the moment and I am up to my ears in research for Victoria; but, i will have to return to rigging in coming months. If I come across the actual reference I will post the detail of where to find it.It is relevant for me also as HMCSS Victoria had the manropes (specified in the Contract and shown in lithographs), and in some visual evidence I have, may also have had the flattened topside of the bowsprit. cheers Pat
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