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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Hi Charlie, what material was used? I had a model printed in 1:350 and it has amazing detail for its size. If I recall mine was printed with the Ultra Frosted stuff. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Some more gems, thanks Jim. I note you depict HMAS Melbourne with the LWO2 radar update (LWO4 aerial); when were you aboard? I served in her also and paid her off. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Very nice metal work Ed; thanks for the piccy and discussion re 'peening', which will be very useful. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    I have not seen one of that shape during my searches Charlie; I wish you luck. Have you considered making one? Seems like a bit of suitably sized brass tube cut cleanly at 45 degrees then soldered to form the 90-degree angle would make the main part. Simply find some conical shape in any material/medium, drill out and slide over the base - paint it black and hey presto cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    The contrast really makes the wales pop Ben; nice work. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Nice work on the forecastle fittings Dan, she is really taking on her finery now! cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Nice work Rusty; the detail on that lower sling is stunning. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    The detail you achieve is astounding Ed; I can't wait for you to get this Volume published. Vol 2 is on its way soon (Xmas pressie :)) which will help me tremendously with some of the upper deck furniture/fittings I need to make. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Looking good Dave, seems you have the knack for the rattlin now cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Nice work Danny, that PE looks really good! cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Excellent work Dave; patience is paying off - that is one nice looking wheel. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Thanks for your kind remarks Denis, very much appreciate you looking in. I hope all is well? cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Very nice work which is up to your usual very high standard Ed; those yards are very clean and the copper banding adds great detail. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    That is really nice work Rusty; another gem from your dockyard - be sure to give the crew an extra rum ration! cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    You have done a terrific job on all your paintings, Jim. I hope that does not sound condescending, rather it is intended to convey my pleasure in viewing your work. I especially like the Falklands poetry painting as somehow you have conveyed the bitter chill in the air in those climes. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Thanks Dave; I should be able to move along at a much greater pace very soon. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    No problems; good luck cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Hi Snow, My preference is to attach the bottom deadeyes (closest to channels) as part of fitting the chain plates. Basically, I attach the deadeye off the ship as part of the total chainplate fixture. I then attach the bottom end of the chainplates and position each of these in the associated notch in the channels. Once positioned, I add the edge strip to the channels in a temporary way (no glue) locking the lower deadeyes in place while you get the rigging of the upper deadeyes sorted. Do not glue the outer edge strip in place until you are confident there will be no need to replace/refit a chain plate etc. (I learned the hard way as I snapped several chainplates at weak solder points when doing ratlin and other rigging tasks that put stress on them.). I fit the upper deadeyes to each shroud leg on the ship having made a jig (a search of this site will show a few different types of jigs) to ensure they will all be level. Once the upper deadeyes have been secured to the shrouds, I then lash each set in turn with their lanyards, ensuring even tension on each. It is best to loosely reeve each lanyard, then tighten each incrementally until you have sufficient tension on the shrouds and ensuring each of the deadeyes in the upper rows remain level. I only temporarily tie off the tails of the lanyards until well into the rigging. Once all are done and the ratlines etc completed I finally tie them off permanently so that should the inevitable 'accident' occur, you do not have to destroy the lanyard or the shroud in getting it off. I hope that helps you. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Thanks for the comments John and Carl, much appreciated. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Another small update; the funnel and steam waste pipe are coming along. the spider bands for hold-down/support chains and bands to imitate the collapsing section still to be added. The funnel is being made by the same guy who made the screw - a bit of a wiz at metal! cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Thanks for looking in and your kind remarks Russ; I was beginning to think no one was going to comment cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Hi again folks. It has been a while and I have been busy doing small parts in preparation to fit prior to starting to airbrush the model again. I have still to make and fit the chainplates, and the common service lifebuoy before I can paint but I think I should be able to start in the next week or two. I have added the rails to the cheek pieces. These are made from 0.5mm brass wire (stiffened); soldering these was not so difficult but drilling the holes in the top of the cheeks was a little daunting as they are only 1.2mm wide. They still need a little cleaning up and blackening (or etching) so that paint will stick. I have also made the cable stoppers. I forgot to add a scale, but these are only 11mm long but I was able to place a forelock pin and retaining chain on them; and the lever works. The second is half complete. Unfortunately, the old one, made by a club member, was too narrow so I had to redo them. The anchors are being made at the moment, so much of the forecastle equipment can be added when the airbrushing has been done. The mast partners still need to be drilled out to the mast size, but I am hoping the net effect is that the remaining parts of the central triangular shapes will look like wedges. Again I for the scale, but this is 12 mm x 13mm. I took the dimensions from the Arrow Class Gun Despatch Vessel plans I have from the NMM, as they were roughly the same size vessel and contemporary. I had several attempts at assembling the various parts but could not get a neat fit, so I cheated and resorted to inscribing them. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Great to see you back Mark and I hope all remains well for you. Nice adaption to the tool - now that is thinking outside the box. Like Dan, I tried the flap wheels, but just could not consistently keep that "light touch' he mentions - may have to look at something similar to what you have done cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    The metal work looks very good Maury. Ed Tosti shows a good technique for lining them all up in his book, cannot recall if he has it in his log also. he used a long pin through the gudgeons to align them, and if the pintles are then set straight all should be good. I think he does top and bottom first if I recall. Sorry if you were aware of this? cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Learning experiences don't stop do they, Danny? You're making rapid progress with the build. cheers Pat

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