BANYAN
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Everything posted by BANYAN
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Shame, shame - hinges don't work <shock horror> That colour combination with the natural wood looks absolutely great Denis cheers Pat
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- t78 norden
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Hi Eberhard, many thanks for the info and feedback. That is a nice jig you made for the mill; I will have to look at something like that also. I am assuming you made it yourself? Thanks for those links, very interesting discussions. I'll do another search online but as yet have been unable to relocate the jig I am interested in. What I am looking for however is for soldering more than mill work. The device/jig I saw was basically a square steel frame that enclosed a soldering pad; whether hollowed out or void I am not sure. Along each side of the square there was a slot milled out to allow fitting of either an articulated arm, or articulated fingers. The fingers were two part with the outer part sliding in the slots and the inner part working like an elbow joint. The inner part looked a lot like the one from clickspring (had already found that but thanks for the reminder), and also had a slot so that you could adjust it in and out as well as swivel it - there was an additional thumbscrew at the tail for this. There were two of these arms, but a lot thinner than the clickspring one (almost flat) so that you could position flat bars/pieces and hold them stable while soldering them. cheers Pat
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Hi Ed, that's an interesting comment about no additional support for the yards. I had been contemplating using chain sling preventers which were shackled to an eye in the topmast? I will need to look a little more closely at this; thanks for the heads up. cheers Pat
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- young america
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I can live with this one Greg Very nice effects and not overdone; your technique is really developing well. As to those missiles - Carrier Killers - more rubble for your ruble cheers Pat
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Thanks Rob, that is a really great finish; a very believable 'mothballed' look to her. Thanks for sharing. cheers Pat
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In support of Wefalck's comments; I have also read somewhere that new ratlines were natural cordage (not treated with tar). The blackish appearance was the result of tar transfer from the hands and feet of the sailors as they 'picked up' the tar from grasping the shrouds and standing in the tops. cheers Pat
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Hi Ferit, wasn't the purpose of the lanyards (apart from providing an elastic/flexible interface) to enable a purchase to pull the catenary/sag out of the shrouds and then use the lanyards to hold that tension? cheers Pat
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That's an interesting technique Rob, have you any pictures of a finished deck you have done? From your description, I think that would look pretty realistic. cheers Pat
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She is looking really good Russ; great work! cheers Pat
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- captain roy
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Very nice details Amalio, love the idea of the mirror to reflect additional detail. cheers Pat
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Nice detail Ed, and well executed as usual. Much here for me to note - thanks again. cheers Pat
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That is superb Keith, love that polished detail against the wood - exudes 'luxury', or should I say 'money' cheers Pat
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I use an anti-fray also Maurys, works well on flags and sails also. Your shrouds look good, very neat work. cheers Pat
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Turned out great OC. She is looking good indeed. cheers Pat
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Looks great Denis, coming on very nicely. If you can't use the orange here, perhaps think of doing a lighthouse or oil rig tender next <hint> cheers Pat
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Hi Greg, I have been away for a few days and get back to find all this amazing detail you have added. That is a really good job you have done with just the right amount of weathering (for my tastes). I would not be looking elsewhere, I think you can rank yourself among the best with your abilities in this genre. cheers Pat
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That is sound reasoning and the mockup looks like it fits nicely. WRT height, I worked on a couple of guiding principles: 1. height of eye of the average sailor to enable a clear view of the compass top within the shelf/compartment; and 2. ability to view over the top of the binnacle to monitor ship's head and sails to maintain course. The 3D print is a great idea as you would get some amazing detail, which at this scale, is hard to do with wood (well for me anyway ). cheers Pat
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I am with Jud, as an ex-navalman I am mystified with some of the over weathering of models I see (mainly plastic). I believe that through the ages, basic naval practices (cannot speak for merchant service) will be based around the same principles. I am sure that as there was not too much shore leave (fear of runners etc) one of the first things the First Lieutenant would have organised was a cleaning and painting party for the ship's sides etc. I acknowledge however, this is more difficult in such times as performing blockades etc. The ship is the sailor's home and cleanliness is paramount if you do not want a sick ship, or an angry Admiral/Squadron/Flotilla Commander. Ship's husbandry and maintaining fighting skills can be achieved together. Even in times of war, in most theatres some effort was made to keeps interiors clean, and basic ship's husbandry done on accessible parts of the upper decks and ship's equipment (especially life boats etc). Yes in times like WWII, during prolonged partols or escort duty in rough weather (Murmansk run) would have prevented any maintenance at all. That said, even during our long deployments (6-9 months) some effort was made to minimise corrosion and maintain the ship's appearance (but not at the expense of proficiency). While I am not a fan, and this is intended as a personal opinion only, I understand some modellers use weathering to display their skills - each to their own preferences and I do admire the skills required to do this level of weathering. cheers Pat
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Some very nice details you are creating Denis; that charlie noble looks great - the bend really sets it off! cheers Pat
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You pick some unusual but interesting subject matter JIm; very nicely executed as usual! cheers Pat
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Hi Mauri, thanks for responding - I am the proud owner of one of Michael Mott's third hands. Do you have a link to Ed's third hand post please? However, what I am really looking for is a jig for holding small parts on a flat surface here. cheers Pat
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Hi all, I am hoping to make a hold-down jig from metal. I hope to achieve something that is flexible to use and not too difficult to make. The device will have a flat metal base about 150mm / 6 in square with hold down fingers that can slide laterally along the edge of the square and in-and-out. The primary use will be to hold small parts for soldering and possibly filing etc. I am hoping I can design something with changeable insert bases, one for soldering, another for cutting and drilling and another pad for filing (sitting higher). Recently, while browsing, I saw a couple of likely candidate designs that peaked my interest in such a jig, and thought would be useful; but, the idiot I am, I did not bookmark them. I am hoping somebody may recall these, or offer a contribution. One device I saw had a round base and also incorporated what looked similar to GRS flex-arms; the other was a metal surround as described above but I think had a soldering pad inserted. I have searched a few likely logs and this forum with no luck so far. Any contributions, suggestions or pointers to these jigs would be greatly appreciated. cheers Pat
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Hi Greg, he is looking great and will look even better once you add the additional detail. A small observation, unless you plan further weathering of the decks, the forepart deck looks a little more weathered (rust) than the rest of the decks (red)? If the soviet sailors maintained the red painted decks to such a degree, surely they would have maintained the foredeck also? That said, your airbrushing techniques are excellent and I may need to take a few lessons from you
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