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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Looks good despite the gaps Danny. Great to see you continuing on with your informative approach similar to when you worked in wood; we all learn from that. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Hi again folks, some help please. According to the Contract "Sundry Fittings. - Metal spider hoops, with brass belaying pins to each mast, and hoops with hooks and rollers for awning, a patent winch on fore and main masts, …" I am trying to determine what these 'patent winches' were. According to Underhill in Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Transport, page 149, "The use of deck capstans as mentioned earlier in this Chapter also went far to reduce the labour in hoisting yards, but the final stage was the introduction of the halliard winch in place of the rope purchase, (Fig 148c [not shown here]). These winches are very simple, and although the supporting frame may vary in different makes, the mechanical design is the same. The principle feature is the drum, which not only does the hauling but also stores the wire taken in, so there is no need to feed it off the winch. A large hand operated flywheel at one end drives the drum through a worm and pinion gear, while at the other end of the drum is a band brake." Noting that Victoria had wire rope for much of her standing and lower rigging, I think it safe to assume this may be the patent winch being referenced? I also note the use of 'singular' form of 'winch' in the Contract wording. A quick search of the internet found a catalog from Bruner and Lay (undated) in which several versions of single and double winches for use with wire rope for hoisting loads (the catalog is for mining equipment but the princile would be the same? see following: However: as the caption to the following picture (taken from the Sea Shanties website, also indicates a 'singular' winch of a similar style but double sided. "THE HALYARD WINCH has replaced the use of the capstan for hauling on the topsails in many sailing ships. The machine does the pulling on the ropes and the singing of a shanty will not help it to work more efficiently. The capstan is still used, however, for other purposes, and can be seen on the right of this photograph, which was taken on board the Penang." Does anyone have further information on these winches? OR, does anyone think this is too large a leap of faith? cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Thanks Jason, Appreciate that. She looks a little rough around the edges where I am still working on it as I had to take off most of the old paint so she looks worse than she actually is I probably won't repaint for a while yet while I continue to sort out all the fitting that go onto the bulwarks. The scuppers are the next task. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Very good metal-smithing Gerhard, that small wheel turned out nicely. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    experimenting with that as you ask Mark - only concern is slicing it if I fill the tube. I think the safest bet is to fill after I cut the slice from the tube but run the risk of getting excess on the edges and sides which can't be cleaned until it is dry. Get back to you on that. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Those shrouds look great set up Ed. I particularly like the colour and lay of the lanyards which look really good. cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Quite a stack of frames there Gaetan. That will be a big hull when assembled. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Another graceful model Russ; her lovely lines are starting to show. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Looking good Greg; she sure has been working hard. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Very nice rigging work Dave (and the 'sinners' in the dockyard - see your post ) I did not query this when I rigged mine, but this is a neater solution you have achieved. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Thanks John. The research is the hardest part as there is not much direct info; we're having to make a lot of assumptions based on the wording of the Contract. For example, we know she had a single Browne and Harfield Capstan but not exactly where it was placed - same for Elliott Riding Bitts etc etc cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Hi Eberhard and thank you very much for that very helpful feedback. I have tried to find smaller rod but to date can only get 3mm BUT only in bulk and at 1m lengths. This supplier is quite distant (here in Aust) so postage is an issue. Based on your info I will look further into this. I like the idea of the acrylic cement. Noting the small tube size, would a drop of this solidify within the ferrules and remain fixed to allow me to work it? That way I would not need rod at all? As to turning, yep, I have learned those lessons the hard way I take very very small cuts and pause after every three. I have also found the appropriate feed speed and rpm to make this work but it is very tedious. I only need 10 all up so thankfully, I will not need to turn too many more as I have found doing 15mm lengths the best. cheers, and many thanks again. Pat
  13. BANYAN
    That will sand back nicely Russ as the planks appear to butt up very nice and cleanly. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Thanks Russ
  15. BANYAN
    Hi folks, well after a delay due to holidays and some further research, I decided I needed to make some further progress with the build. I am trying to create and fit all of the necessary detail to the inside of the bulwarks that need to be done prior to painting as I do not wish to mar the finish once the paint has been applied (airbrush). I am also hoping to identify and fit all the necessary fitting to the inside of the bulwarks prior to fitting any deck furniture and equipment as these latter items will impact my ability to add detail later - hence the research. I have fitted the pinrails, the chock in the bow through which the jib(s)' downhauls etc are led, and have made a start on the after bench through which the stern davits are fitted. The following photos show my progress on these items; the after bench and davits are only loose/dry fitted at the moment.. I have yet to let in the ash shute, pissdales and heads. i am also just starting to contemplate where and how to let in the scuppers. I am also experimenting with the Lang Scuttles, which look a little like a porthole from outside, but are quite unique. I have located a drawing (following) showing the detail and an article in the Nautical Magazine of 1841 (extract shown) which provides me with some relevant detail. essentially I will mimic the external appearance only by using a very thin walled brass tube (drilled out) into which I will set some thin acrylic . I will then drill out the holes in the hull to match the OD of the assembly and glue thin slices of this material into them. Unfortunately I only have 10mm acrylic rod so I have had to turn the diameter down on my lathe - this proved somewhat difficult as the rod tended to melt if I had the cutting angle or the rpm wrong- persistence paid off I would value any feedback on how to turn acrylic properly as i cannot get rod of the correct diameter (being so small - 1.8mm to fit the ID of the brass tube). The following photograph shows that I can achieve this look and my experiment in a scrap of wood does the trick. When I shine a light behind, it mimics the appearance of thick glass. The expanded brass tube slice (top right in the photo) is the start of my experimentation for the scupper inlet in the waterways. My current punch is not suited and I will need to turn a better punch and die arrangement to use. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Sorry I have missed this log until now Amalio; simply astounding quality and an inspiration for all modellers. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Makes sense cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Those shrouds look great set up the way you have done them Ed. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Very nice updates Dan; that is a very good rendition of the windows using styrene and will add very nicely to the great detail you are achieving. As Druxey also said, the portholes are a marked improvement. I am very much enjoying following your build. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Very nice work on Speedwell Greg and best wishes for a successful publication. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Some nice ideas among that lot Greg, she should look good. The main stressed hull areas would be the water outlets/discharge area and rust streaks from angles/joined equipment where water would collect. Some rust would develop from the anchor and cable rubbing on the hull also. In 1945 I think extreme long periods of action may have been very few for Japanese Navy? cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Good progress there Danny and you seem to be overcoming the challenges being put to you (despite the dockyard workers :)). Interesting build you have going. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Nice progress Phil, some nice detail you are adding cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Only a very knowledgeable person would pick up those differences Gerhard; you did very well with the info you had on hand at the time. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Superb workmanship Jason, the head of this beauty is a joy to behold. cheers Pat

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