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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Thanks for looking in and the kind comments guys. I am off to the UK next year Steven and a visit to the GB is included (along with a few other maritime museums :)) As with your Dromon, the research is slowing me up quite a bit Great to see you back Bernie; hope to see more of your lovely 'James Caird' soon? cheers Pat
  2. Some production line you got going The buoys and staffs look great! cheers Pat
  3. Thanks Denis; appreciate the complement. Victoria is the same era and was built on the same principles as the Union/Confederate ships, and for a similar purpose, although she never engaged in any ship-to-ship battles - purely shore bombardments. cheers Pat
  4. Nope but yours look so much better I thought I might cajole you into it No probs re ref to resistance soldering. cheers Pat
  5. Thanks for looking in and the positive reinforcement guys; much appreciated. cheers Pat
  6. What a beautifully crafted model Antony; you can be justifiably proud of this one. cheers Pat
  7. Slow but steady progress John; an excellent foundation for your future planking. cheers Pat
  8. Hi Dave; a very good process with excellent results - that yard furniture looks really good. i hope you are going to add those tiny bolts/pins cheers Pat
  9. Hi folks some more progress on this build. I have now done a fair mount of the painting. The bulwarks and cap rails are finished but the hull still needs its final coat of black - you can see where I have started final sanding etc. The figurehead requires some touching up of the white to complete it also. The following show progressively how I have been proceeding. First I built a build cradle which is hinged at the front so that I can angle the deck appropriately under a large mill to drill the mast holes. This cradle keeps the ship nice and steady - there are two bicycle spoked from the keel (epoxied in) that pass through the assembly and secured with nuts under the board; the door wedges are for leveling the deck laterally. The next photo shows her masked and the priming coat applied. the last two photos are of her in her current state. the larger holes are for the scupper outlets; the final size is much smaller - a 9" scupper at 1:1. The smaller holes are for the Lang Scuttles mentioned earlier in this log. I have also attached a 3D render of what the capstan will look like. cheers Pat
  10. Further on those 150mm guns, the independent fire control is the most likely reason, but rather than selective, I note the turrets ere the two central ones. Perhaps they could 'slave' the other 150mm guns on that side to the central one also? cheers Pat
  11. Hi Ensign, I have built a model of Endeavour (AL kit heavily bashed) and depending on your locale may be able to provide some help. Your profile does not indicate where you live etc. cheers Pat
  12. Nice! That looks great Russ. I can empathise with the research Russ, it seems the smaller the item the harder to 'nail it' cheers Pat
  13. Great story Alan, there are far to few of these 'sharing' guys around. I am happy to say that I have had a similar experience with a very experienced modeller in my club; his willingness to mentor and his patience are much appreciated - and as in your case he wanted nothing but to share his experience. Look forward to your redos; they will be worth it. cheers Pat
  14. Nice adaption with the boots Danny; the guns look good. cheers Pat
  15. Hi Lou, I have been having similar problems with posts - I thought it was just me. Almost ready for her maiden voyage Denis cheers Pat
  16. Looks good Steven; the oars came up well with the "adjustment" cheers Pat
  17. Some very fine detail and great craftsmanship in this build guys. cheers Pat
  18. Hi, I still have this saw and it performs well. The only issue I experienced was when changing blades I did not put the support flange washers on correctly and it wobbled. Other than that does a grand job of cutting straight - sharp blades are essential as with any saw. Note this saw does 90 degree cuts only if modified as I have. cheers Pat
  19. Good jig/idea Russ, makes for a nicely uniform and level hatch cover. I hope you don't mind me pasting this? Carl: Cleat - A strip fastened to one part to hold it in place or to facilitate the fastening of another part. Examples: cleats on the inside of a blanket chest used to hold a drop-in tray. A variation of the cleat that woodworker's tend to use a lot is the French Cleat. cheers Pat
  20. WOW Ed, as if your previous work didn't impress. Great result with your gin blocks - you set the bar awfully high cheers Pat
  21. Welcome back to the peace and tranquility of the modelling desk Denis Some nice added detail to your Norden. I hope you don't mind me commenting but that hose looks a little out of scale mate. That said, if you can live with it then leave it, there are plenty of great details to distract from it. cheers Pat
  22. Not sure of your set-up Steve and I use a lathe, bu the process would be similar. Are you supporting the end of the yard while turning with the drill? That is both ends of your work should be supported, and if longer, even a third support like a steady rest. I have seen some posts of drills being used as a lathe where the other end is supported in a ply or mdf board with a hole at the appropriate height. More elaborate versions have a bearing inserted in the hole to support the yard end. I use my lathe to turn the stock but use sandpaper and files to shape so it is a very similar concept. IO have successfully turned/sanded down to under 2mm with the use of steady rests. I hope that helps a little; perhaps a photo of your set-up may assist other in providing better advice? cheers Pat
  23. Nice work again Jim; particularly like the last one Pat
  24. Looks good OC; you've got the hang of the new camera pretty quick by the looks of it cheers Pat
  25. Very nice work Dan, that coin really shows the scale and level of detail. cheers Pat
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