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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Hi Greg; nice kit and build you have chosen. That was a very short sabbatical though cheers Pat
  2. Nice work Denis; those gallows will make nice fittings for your little beauty. cheers Pat
  3. Hi Dave, if you are going to add the blocks to the yards, be sure to check the running rigging (sails) section of the AOTS as there are a few extras I did not see cheers Pat [Edit: Also shows the leads for the buntlines]
  4. Hi folks, another update. John - you won - many thanks for the head's-up. I decided to do some of the running rigging for sails. I have finished the mizzen, and only a couple t go on the main topsail; then onto the foremast. The quarter badge window shutters have also been fitted now - hopefully I do not bump them . cheers Pat
  5. Hi Gif_Haise. I have just had the same issue in my Endeavour build. I rigged the blocks in-situ and intended leaving them unrove as suggested above. However, when I posted my progress photos there were several queries (some p via PM) as to whether I was going to rig the clew, leech and buntlines. After a little bit of research I determined there are two schools of thought on the matter - with and without lines (obvious ) It was pointed out that most of the contemporary models of the period showed the lines fitted with them rove through the blocks with a small overhand knot stopping it from pulling through the block. I have used this approach leaving about 25mm of scale rope dangling. In real life i believe they would have fitted/rove a spike/toggle through the line to prevent the line pulling through when the sails were unbent. I will be posting some photos in my HM Bark Endeavour build log (Kits) of the finished lines later today/early tomorrow if you are interested in seeing what it looks like to assist your decision process. Your choice though. cheers Pat
  6. Yep, chemical blackening is the way to go (I use Birchwood Casey Blackener) - have a look at my build log (near the end) where I have done the rudder pendant chains just that way. cheers Pat
  7. Hi Mindy, I have the same discussion in my build log. I have opted for the bumpkins/boomkins as when you enhance Parkinson's drawings in photoship, they can be nothing else. His drawings are very accurate in all aspects and if he took the time to get detail right for shutters, deadlights, windows etc, then I am reasonably confident he would have drawn these fairly accurately also? We did this exercise as part of the discussions in our club with Karl H Marquardt and Ray Parkins (both club members at the time) having some very lively debates It was also pointed out that the bumkins are designed and rigged to be used at sea, and removed when working the anchor. This makes a lot of sense for both anchor work and the sail handling. Your choice, and who is actually to know unless some long lost clear drawing/evidence is to emerge with time? cheers Pat
  8. Very nice work Dave, the servings are nice and tight and look good. Glad to see you added the cleats to the Belfry. I didn't and it is now impossible to add them causing me some belaying issues as i add the clew, leech and buntlines - oh well, live and learn cheers Pat
  9. Great progress Denis; you'll be finished before you know it now cheers Pat
  10. I know the feeling of never ending tasks Dave Keep going and treat eash task as a separate project you can tick off and you'll be there before you know it. Those masts look excellent BTW cheers pat
  11. Great work Greg, a stunning miniature collection of "steel ship" masterpieces you have assembled. Those bases came up well and Deadnaught looks just the part (fear nothing) with all of that netting etc you have fitted. Look forward to your Yamato build when you get to it. cheers Pat
  12. Coming along rapidly Sjors - she looks good! cheers Pat
  13. Nice to see the update Glenn, I was missing my weekly fix. Beautiful work as usual. cheers Pat
  14. No problems and appreciate that John; I am still learning - I just thought they would not have those lines rove without sails fitted. I'll think on this issue though as I don't know if I have enough line for all these cheers Pat
  15. Hi folks, thanks to all those who looked in and for the likes. Ca. - This part of the ironwork is all freehand bending with metal forming pliers and soldering which is then touched up with a file. For example, the boom pivot joint is a bit of brass tubing of the appropriate ID (for the wire elbow) soldered to some flat strap brass which has a 90 degree bend applied. cheers Pat
  16. Hi again folks, Another update I have now completed the ironwork for the lower studding boom which is shown temporarily fitted. I still have some cleanup to do on the woodwork (and on the ship hull where I notice I have left some evidence of a misadventure). The first photo is the promised shot of the cable bonnets shown fitted in place - the cable has yet to be tensioned and secured in place. cheers Pat
  17. That looks spot on mate - makes her look fit for her role now. cheers Pat
  18. Here are two progress shot as of yesterday morning. Hopefully fit the lower studding booms to the main channels, and the quarter badge shutters today. cheers Pat
  19. A little more progress to show folks, she now has the dead lights, swivel guns and rudder pendants fitted. I was trying to get a bit of a rusty effect on the rudder pendant chains as these would have been beaten around quite a bit and I therefore believe they would have been a little rusted I have made a start on the quarter badge window shutters and starting to rig the stbd anchor for which I have now rigged the cat tackle and fitted the cable bonnets (shown being constructed here - will show them fitted in a future post). John (Neptune) - I wasn't going to add those lines but have fitted the blocks as I think they would have been left rigged when sail was taken down - I hope cheers Pat
  20. You must have good steady hands Greg; nice result! cheers Pat
  21. Thanks for sharing Tadeusz, some interesting details there. cheers Pat
  22. Some great progress there Sjors; looking good! cheers Pat
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