BANYAN
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Ship Modeler's Workbench
BANYAN replied to CaptCraig's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Craig, When I planned my bench space I used a process similar to the following. List the power tools you have (or plan to have); determine their footprints and the amount of space you will need around them (length of stock, size of materials etc). Do a rough plan layout by grouping the tools that you will need to provide suction/dust control for and see if you can fit them in one area or you need to split them up a it. You can then plan your dust venting/tubing etc and determine where and how many power outlets you will need (much easier to prewire these before your walls go on ) Also try to arrange your tools (the sequence/location) with your work process/flow in mind (desireable but not that essential). The other small consideration I gave (but again, was not a driver) was storage/access to tool accessories for each power tool. Nothing worse than having to go elsewhere in the shop to get a small 'something' for the tool you are using, or to have to lean so far over the bench it is difficult to grab the item Just some considerations - hope they help. cheers Pat -
Thanks again Jeff, great feedback. Yep, we are a bit of a backwater for these sorts of things down here unless you use some of that cheap and nasty Chinese rubbish! I think your comment on bulk buying may be the best option (from a good source) and there are probably enough of us Byrne's saw users down here to pool resources Then again, we would not go through blades anywhere near the rate you would. cheers Pat
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Great to see you back at it again Danny; missed your earlier post re the meat - what a smell that must have been! Seems the lay-off (unintentional) have done nothing to deminish your acquired building skills. cheers Pat
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It's all been said Paul - great detail! Keep the updates coming mate - we'll let you off over Easter but no excuses after that cheers Pat
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Hi Sarah, sorry to hear of the mishap. Sometime self-induced (as on my part ) but these sorts of things hapeen and you have dealt with it in a great way. Isn't the interruption of a perfectly good hobby day with a 'work day' such a pain- but then again, bills have to be paid cheers Pat
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Jeff, that is an excellent Tutorial / Info Sheet. Many thanks for taking the time to post it on your site. The only further questiopn I have is with reuse of the blades. Do you use them until dull and discard or do you have them resharpened. The end decision I suppose will be the cost effectiveness. cheers Pat
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Some great progress John; looking very much a 'greyhound' of the sea now. cheers Pat
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Hi Popeye, had not looked in on this build of yours previously; glad I did! Great work mate, love the 'life' you have brought to it - just a rub here and there of an old prawn and she'll even smell like a working boat cheers Pat
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Can anyone recommend a miniature hand plane?
BANYAN replied to Bettina's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I use this plane also Janet; it's been great to use! cheers Pat -
Some great ideas and tips here folks; many thanks to all contributers. Pity Jim doesn't have a riving blade as an option - can we tempt you? The taped wood looks the best option I have seen yet - thanks David. cheers Pat
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Ed, watching the recreation of your build is a pleasure, the quality of your work, especially at the scale you work is exceptional! As Druxey has elegantly put it: Druxey - we know you better regards Pat
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Your build is looking great Toni; and a very interesting way to measure progress. cheers Pat
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Crackers, this may be the topic for another thread. The RN had some great names for some foods (Devils on Horseback, toad in a hole, etc) In our outfit we were always wary of anything coated in breadcrumbs as the chefs were usually trying to 'mask' something (old food generally) We called this food in "night clothing" as usually this was served for the evening meals, and we had to shift into "night clothing" at nights to show their lordships how hygenic we were cheers Pat
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Hey have you Swan Class builders got a conspiracy going? Toni and you both building the same class, both finish the recovery of your logs on almost the same day ... Mate a major milestone, achieved with some satisfaction I am sure (along with putting the lost work (several times) tribulations behind you). I think a celebration may be the ticket especially while you wait for the the rodent issue to resolve Pat
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A significant milestone and major effort - many thanks Toni. I look forward to seeing your "de novo" updates. I think a small celebration may be warranted Pat
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Implacable (Duguay Trouin) - moved by moderator
BANYAN replied to Matrim's topic in Nautical/Naval History
It's always sad to see an old lady of the sea meet such an end; it is even harder to accept when you have served in them. The Australian Navy has a habit of using former ships for all sorts of purposes. Two of the ships in which I have served are now recreational diving wrecks, one was blown up in all sorts of ways as an experimenta vessel, another two sold as scrap. One is now a fine museum ship in Darling harbour. Sigh!!!! cheers pat -
Great detail as usual Paul. Now mate, we do expect to see a highly detailed mouse or two and ship's cat also (or was the German Navy too efficient to allow mice to get aboard?) - everything else seems to have been covered cheers Pat
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I haven't caught up with your build for some time Wayne; youve made great progress and she looks great. Interesting comparison you have there. cheers Pat
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When you learn that trick Andy you can make a fortune selling the idea to all of us Nice work on the masts though! cheers Pat
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Thanks BE and Daniel; yep we have to assume artistic lisence. As you have said things changed with the ages and if you accept the 'lisence' there is much to learn from these. cheers Pat
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Hi Mark, according to Jim the freewheeling is only until the motor and whorls come up to speed; from that point on it should be held stopped while making rope. WRT to the die; after much similar frustration I stummbled on a 'trick' which is to get two of the threads through (reasonably easy), then wet the area behind the die on the feed side (I use spit ) and lay/place the damp end of the third at that spot (the damp holds the third end in place and pull it through with the other two. Works for me cheers Pat
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Thanks for the links Daniel; some interesting illustrations there. I have not looked at them all, but it is surprising to see that although space is tight around the tables etc, that the overheads are quite high. They are shown to be just above ther doortop for headline in the cabins etc, but much higher on the gundecks. i was always under the impression that although people were in general shorter back then, they would still have had restricted headroom 'tween decks. These illustrations would appear to show different (and assuming that in the cabins people could walk through a doorway without bending)? cheers Pat
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Hi Floyd, Mate, agree the difficulty of seeing the lay-up point especially with lighter coloured thread; with black thread I find I can see the form-up point easier against the polished aluminium but cannot see how well it is laying up. I have a couple of coloured bits of card (flat finish) I have cut to width and bent into 'U' shapes to place in the top of the channel between the two holes to enable me to see the lay-up point a little more easily. This is one area I think Jim could make an enhancement Perhaps adding a magnifying glass with a articulating arm (from a third hand?) may assist. I have one of those ring lights around a larger magnifying lens type desk-light I have recently started using so I will experiment with that also. I am assuming you are referring to the friction wheel and not the centre/core line spool feeder. The idea with the friction wheel is to let the motor and larger diameter whorl plate spin up to speed forming a basic twist in the feed threads before applying friction (by holding it still). At that point the whorl spools themselvs start to spin and lay up the rope. If you hold it still from the get-go you may be applying too much pressure to the lines and the motor? I think Jim may be best placed to answer this though. cheers Pat
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A lesson I learned with using balsa for filler blocks is to ensure they are sealed when you have finished sanding them to shape; otherwise the planks will not stick to them. I used a simple 50/50 PVA to water diluton and painted it on. cheers Pat
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Your build is coming along very nicely Toni, some great joinery there. cheers Pat
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