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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Thanks for the comments and the likes folks, much appreciated. Eberhard: Stowing them inboard is certainly an option; however, most authors imply they were permanently rigged. Unshipping would also avoid the need of trying to properly secure them for sea. They certainly were used as the boat booms in harbour; and I am contemplating whether to show one of them swung out and rigged with painters, lizards and jackobs ladders. Keith: thanks for the suggestion. All authors agree they were stowed parallel with the fore channel. If unshipped they were probably stowed inboard so need to give this a little more thought; although, it is possible they were stowed in the channels which sort of aligns with your thoughts. The only problems I see with that though, is that the imagery suggests they were stowed in-situ, and, on the stbd side, would have competed for space in the channels with the stream anchor. Roger: yep, in the RAN we followed the same practices - as the anchor was let go, the call came "out boats and booms" which had to be done smartly. We did the same with having a boat ready to go at sea with the skipper having a real penchant to test how quick we could do it - there was a fleet standard that had to be met. This tested the whole system from the Officer of the Watch through to the duty swimmer and boat crew. However in Victoria it is more likely the whale boat, which was a better sea boat (especially when pulled), was used as the 'sea boat' - this was on the stbd davits further aft (near the mizen). I have yet to search the logs and journals thoroughly for this type of information. All that said, the lifeboats would still need to be easily lowered in case of emergency. Thanks again all; this is now a question of rigged or stowed inboard. I am leaning towards the latter. This is another example of the real value of this forum - the willingness of people to help and offer advice. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    That is going to be one very interesting looking diorama (of sorts) when completed Glen; such an unusual subject. Hopefully the test fit and unrig will go well. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Ok folks, a small update after a longer than planned shutdown in the dockyard (while I got my act together again) I've started putting the lower studding/swing boom together, and in doing so, I have discovered a little bit of a dilemma. First here is the boom (for the eagle eyed; yep the clamp on the end of the boom crane was crooked - since adjusted. Now the dilemma, once I have fitted the boat davits, the bows of the cutter-lifeboats will hang over the after end of the boom (including the crane). The crane is in the right place, as is the length/size of the boom. The boat davits are placed according to the drawings and all the imagery. The iron crane is a crutch, fitted to chestrees on the hull, that hold the after ends of the boom and secures it when not in use. They are scaled for 3" wide iron a 3/8 inch thick. It sticks out from the ship's side quite a bit to allow the boom to lay parallel with the edge of the fore channel. As such it will be about in line with the keel of the cutter lifeboats. The davits did not swing out, nor were they set-up to swivel. The groove in the cap rail just forward of the chestree in the last photo shows the fore davit arm position. Therefore - how were the lowered past the cranes? The only solution I have so far is that the boom would have to be swung out or lifted, and the crane taken in, but there is no mention in the contract, nor any evidence in the Specification or imagery that they were designed that way. One possible alternative is that the crane was not fitted and the booms were simply lashed in place, allowing the boom to be moved when the boats were to be used (but in time of emergency, would you really want to be faffing around with that?) Any ideas? Ugh, the close-up photography certainly shows all the blemishes I have to fix cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Enjoying her coming together Rob; a truly splendid model. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Hi. Where possible I try to use genuine knots and seizings, or at least simulated versions of them (the simulated versions may miss a couple of steps in tying the real knot). For example I try use a form of the 'common' whipping, reef knots on ratlines, figure of 8s on cleats, pins etc, proper coils for rope ends, etc etc. However, based on the scale you are using, it is sometimes impossible to do this, so I use a knot/finish, that when finished, looks a little the same as the typical real life knot. This is possible as generally there is not a lot of tension on model ship lines that require the benefits of using the real knot. For my purposes I have found you do not have to use many types of knots. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Your time away to recover has certainly not diminished your skills Eberhard; looks great! cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    It's always good to take a pause when things start to get on top of what you are doing; it allows you to adjust and come back better - good luck Bob. Those who visit my log will see that I have also taken a break from the dockyard; I only just got back there seriously in the last few days, and oh boy, am I rusty - the Foreman told me in no uncertain terms and language to pull my britches up Take your time, the model and slipway will still be there when you are ready. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Great to see your update Bitao, I was missing them. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    The more experienced may offer a better answer, but I think in real life some were and some weren't; BUT some modellers don't include them. It is possible some of the lines that rig through blocks on the yards (leech, bunts etc) were left in place if the sails were unbent for temporary/short periods, but the lower sail control lines such as the bowlines were stowed and rigged when sails were bent. I look forward to the answers and updates you receive. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Keep persevering mate; and don't be afraid to re-ask questions. Most on this forum are a patient lot. Can I ask how you are cutting the butt ends of your plank. You may need to make a jig of sorts to help you with this. A simple jig would allow you to cut consistent lengths, squared at the ends, and also allow you to consistently drill the tree nail holes. Give me a PM if you need more info. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Looks great Rob. I agree, at sea those ladders will have been difficult; they may have been removed during her adaption for mostly harbour work? cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Those sails with their rigging looks great Steven; amazing detail noting the scale you are working with. cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Looks great Steven, your persistence is paying some real dividends. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Wow indeed, thanks Bruce. Right up my alley for some light reading You do unearth some very interesting material. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Looking good Glen, this will make a nice diorama within a bottle - a real 'hum Zhenger' as you say cheers Pat.
  16. BANYAN
    More of your high quality craftsmanship; thankyou. What a way to start the week - candy for the eyes cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Just goes to show that no matter how cautious you are, it can still get you. Glad to hear you are recovering. The cutter is coming along beautifully; I really like the idea of the Styrofoam packing to maintain the shape as you plank. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Dave I have quite a few power tools as I use them for other hobbies/carpentry as well. I will provide a short list of the ones I use the most / find more useful, BUT all the others have a purpose as well and it depends on what I am doing at the time (for example while doing the spars, I would include the lathe ahead of the saw). These are listed in the order which I rate their assistance/usefulness in my building style. As Druxey says though, hand tools can do the job just as well (but I am a boy who loves his power tools :)) Disk sander (good quality, accurate) Mill Drill (Micromotor - Dentist type) Benchtop saw Resistance soldering unit cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    I have run out of superlatives Rob. I hope you understand that my simple posts these days do acknowledge the wonderful model you are building; it just that you can only say superb, etc a number of times before the words themselves become mundane. I applaud your attention to detail and accuracy, and masterful creation. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Bob, a good idea to protect the planking after you lay it, but please be aware of two 'things' to make your life a little easier. First, choose the varnish/stain carefully after testing on the same type of wood, as some varnishes can change the colour/tone of the wood. More importantly, be aware of where you will need to glue/fix deck furniture etc as gluing to a varnished surface will not provide the necessary strength sometimes - you can either not varnish that area, or you could use additional fixing supports (such as pins etc). Just a head's up. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Absolutely wonderful detail Brian; Cairo is really brought to life with all your added detail. No wonder you attracted your unwanted visitor, it simply heard about your build and came to have a look for itself cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Hi Bob, good luck with your build. WRT the decking article, please be aware the width of the individual planks (driven by available timber), plank shift (number of planks between/before the pattern starts again) and tree nailing (trennels) is determined from a bunch of variables depending on when (period of original vessel's build), who built it (nationality) and how realistic/close to original the method you wish to emulate. The article you show will be a great help, as would be any of the ones available in the MSW articles database (see top tabs). Drawing lines is quite OK, it is entirely up to the builder how they wish to do it, but if you wish to progress your planking skills, laying individual planks is the way to go. If this is early in your learning curve, stick with a pretty simple butt shift/plank pattern and simply develop your skills in laying down planks. Most of us have had to go through these learning curves, which really never stops. I'll follow with interest. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Lots of big boxes Greg; will these [all the extra parts] 'sink' the smaller kit Yep, interested! cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Great attitude Rob, the forecastle look's good. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    I'm late to the log (again) - sorry Glen. A very interesting subject you have chosen. I'll follow along with delight. cheers Pat

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