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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Coming along beautifully Rob; just the stimulus (to watch your work) to get me going again cheers Pat
  2. A stunning result, and a very unique display stand Glen. cheers Pay
  3. Dave, the answer is: depends on the size of the piece being blackened and on the quality of the brass (and whether it has been cleaned/prepared properly) and the strength of the solution being used. If we assume that any part is properly prepared, small bits takes only a minute or so in a solution (even less if full strength solution is needed), a cannon barrel much longer. If the brass has not been prepared properly it could take several repeated passes through the process. I use a system similar to Roger, but rinse the acetone off before blackening, and I tend to dilute the solution. As Roger, and others in posts elsewhere stress - the key is good preparation (cleaning etc) of the parts. I don't know what blackening solution you use, but if properly prepared, I found I still only need less than 5 minutes max in the solution for larger pieces. cheers Pat
  4. More of a 'dust' than a clean Keith Hopefully a (re)start on the masts this Wednesday - depends on whether the grandkids wear me out too much cheers Pat
  5. Nice results Eberhard, the base looks great. The sea colour looks pretty well spot-on. cheers Pat
  6. Hi Marty, thanks for looking in and your kind comments. Having seen your work, I would not be overly concerned, it is very much up to 'scratch'. Hopefully, I will be able to make some progress shortly - I have started cleaning the workshop in preparation of making a restart in a few days. cheers Pat
  7. Greg, just for info, the additional side fin is actually one of two (one per side) roll stabiliser - moveable fins. You're moving ahead at quite a rate. cheers Pat
  8. A very nice bit of deductive assembly here Keith. Looks like your hull will be very close to actual. cheers Pat
  9. This will be an interesting build Greg, following keenly as I served ion these. cheers Pat
  10. I very much like the different display stands you create. cheers Pat
  11. Sorry all, my point appears to have not been well/clearly made. If you want consistently accurate measurement, ANY measuring device needs to be accurate to within a 'certified' acceptable tolerance. In many circumstances in our hobby it does not need super accuracy. The point I was trying to make was that it is pointless measuring the accuracy of one device with another device unless the accuracy of the measuring device is known/proven. cheers Pat
  12. But only if you know the callipers are accurate. Many of these are not certified as accurate, so which is the more accurate?
  13. Very nicely executed, you make this look all too easy Keith; but we know the amount of work and thought you have put into these. cheers Pa
  14. Nice use of modern tech to achieve a great result . A very fine model you are producing. cheers Pat
  15. The rigging, especially the associated iron-work on the spars is top-notch Rob. Looks great. cheers Pat
  16. Love your logic WRT house chores - wish I had of thought of that Look forward to following this build also. cheers Pat
  17. Very nice work on the bow rigging Rob; looks great! How did you make the iron plates on the hull for the bowsprit guys/shrouds. I have been contemplating various options for a while including a simple strap cur to length and a hole put in one end. cheers Pat
  18. Rob said: "No image I have shows clearly the belay points for the sheets and bunt lines and since the mizzen lacks a proper fife rail(short of the spider band)....I can only imagine that the rail was used as a pin rail......" Rob, if it is anything to go by, the 'Victoria' had the same issues. Her Contract specifically required a spider band to the Mizen, two sheet bitts (no cross-piece (fife rail) and a photograph I have shows mizen pin rails on her after cap/roughtree rails. Also, some of the rigging that ran aft on the other masts, ran forward, using blocks on the after crosstrees of those masts, thence to the deck, for the mizen running rigging. cheers Pat edit: Also, most of the authors of this time (and more recent times ) agree that sheet jeer bitts were fitted for the mizen.
  19. Very nice work; so very well executed Bitao. cheers Pat
  20. Steven, I have some 'privet' which is in the boxwood genus. This is a dense wood which is very tight grained and strong, but as with any wood when you go thin, it loses strength. I can spare you some if you would like to experiment/use it? cheers Pat
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