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BANYAN
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Thanks for the great response and continued discussion. I am now more the wiser WRT to the stagger being applicable to the landings on the beams rather than length of plank overlap, and that there was a two beam overlap. I remain confused with the stagger pattern however; and, if I am not missing a basic point, may have differed for the English rules. What I am now trying to understand is whether there was an 'offical' or even 'rule-of-thumb' for the stagger sequence? I posted two stagger sequences ( 5-2-3-4-1 and 1-3-5-2-4) that I have seen in my initial post; can anyone provide better guidance on which was used (or if both). What confuses me most is the second of 5 butts in the sequences - at the moment I am simply assuming that 5 and 1 (in the first sequence) are butts landing on the same beam, which would be a 4 butt shift. However, the second sequence would not hold to this interpretation. The only thing I can put this down to is that perhaps, with time, as the width of the planks dimished as suitable timber became harder to source, that a 5 butt shift was needed to get adequate separation along the same beam? In 'Victoria' The maximum plank width was specified as 7" but measuring the planks visible in the two photographs showing deck planking, the average plank width was 4.75". cheers, and many thanks again for the great discussion. Pat -
Hi folks, I am trying to determine the correct sequence of the butt shift for deck planking. I have done a search but find several references and cannot find a contemporary (1855) reference that gives the sequence. I am using a four butt shift, so what would be the correct sequence please? I have seen it expressed as 5-2-3-4-1 and 1-3-5-2-4 but what does this actually mean? I think the numbers are applicable to the plank no, rather than the butt number - have I got that right? What I am trying to get to grips with is how this translates into practice - that is, if I start with a central plank, say #1, and then the next plank would be set back (butt shifted) a distance in a particular pattern of stagger. In previous models I know I have got this wrong by just staggering them in a regular sequence rather than the above sequences. By standard or regular stagger I mean that if #1 is the start, and the stagger is 5 feet overlap, the next would be 5 feet back, then the next another 5 feet and the fourth another 5 feet, the the sequence starts again. I have read the former sequence(s) is supposed to provide greater strength/less chance of splitting along a common line, but wouldn't a standard/regular sequence provide the same if they all land on a deck beam? Seeking an education Can anyone please provide the correct terminology for this, and explain (in dummy's language) exactly how the stagger is supposed to be. Also, is it different between Service and Merchant ships? Many thanks Pat
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White is the way to go then . You should be able to thin the Admiralty white with water if I recall, several thin coats would be preferable so as not to clog up the chain links? cheers Pat
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What a great model Eric, she turned out a thing of beauty. cheers Pat
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Keith, great process and another excellent outcome! That whole assembly looks great, and with the 'rope softening' will look very realistic; another idea to store away. cheers Pat
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Hi OC, long time.... Are the scales of the chain the same and period correct (if you are looking for authenticity that is)? I don't know when it started, but a lot of anchor chain cables were painted white, but as suggested, yes the 'dib dabs' (as we 'seamen' branch were called by the stokers, greenies [electricians] and store keepers/box packers [supply branch] - we would dib and dab a bit of paint here and there. We would try to keep the cables nice and prettied up but that went by the wayside during operational times, especially if working the anchor a lot. cheers Pat
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So YA was keeping up with fewer of her sails set? Interesting painting, who painted it please Rob? cheers Pat
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Looking good Greg, that PE seems very well scaled re thickness - the doors looks excellent. cheers Pat
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That sectiopn of deck looks great Mark; look forward to seeing more of her. cheers Pat
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Hi Steven, I found using a very thin strip (both width and thickness) as a batten to be very helpful, as the batten if not forced to bend in the up/down dimension, has the natural tendency to lay in the natural path of the sheer when laid upon the hull at various points. By moving these to various positions, and adjusting the 'lay', this better defines where to place the band separating lines. You can use them temporarily and replace with string after marking the appropriate points along the batten. I think David Antscherl and other authors also recommend this. cheers Pat
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That's a good process you have developed Steven; I have noted/logged this as one never knows, I may be tempted myself one day cheers Pat
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Ditto, great tip Keith. The crutch assembly is looking great. You may have covered this, and I am being lazy not checking back through the log, but is your saw mounted in a mill with a chuck on the x table, or is it in a lathe with overhead milling attachment? I like the process of cross cutting to hold smaller parts. cheers Pat
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
BANYAN replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Hi all, very many thanks for the input re the gun. I went back through my references and the screw elevating rod and base plate were made of 'gunmetal' - being a type of bronze – an alloy of copper, tin, and zinc. I am not sure there would be a dissimilar metal corrosion (electrochemical issues) with the iron, but I know in my day (while in the navy) we had to treat the interfacing surfaces with barium chromate - I wonder if close attention and the frequent application of grease will have sufficed? cheers Pat- 993 replies
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Sorry for not getting back earlier HYW; distracted with other matters. I think Tony and Wefalck have answered the questions you had. As there is not a lot of material on the subject, your model, representing a smaller vessel, may indeed had standard link cable only. Either way, you are doing a wonderful job with the build. cheers Pat
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Thanks Rob, much appreciate the photos. I only have the slow speed micro-motor version; the air driven looks very interesting. I have found jewellery suppliers have 2.35 shank drill bits and some burs (but there is not a great range) so I still have to rely on the Dremel for some tasks. I have found some great 'separating disks (carbon fibre) which are very expensive, but very good - You have to remain very alert when using them as one small slip and kiss your digit good bye - they cut through soft-metals easy! You get different types to cut different media, ceramic, steel etc . I just cannot find a wide range of bits etc for the contra-angle head. There seems to be plenty of burrs and cylinder style cutting bits (like micro-mill cutters) but nothing in the way of drill bits. The following is the style of separating disc I mean - I have a different brand; these are just to show the type. I find that the dental micro-motors are much better for small jobs; any serious torque need well.... for small jobs though they are so much easier to control and get into tight places. cheers Pat
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Great news, look forward to seeing the new crew members, less work for the few already 'on the books' cheers Pat
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HYW, I am very impressed with the quality of your work and the model, but in this instance I feel that you are reducing the overall quality of the model in not using 'studded" or stud-link chain for your cable. After making that excellent swivel link, I think the cable deserves to be studded? This chain can be sourced reasonably cheaply, but with your skills I think you can make it? The more 'learned' here may be able to offer better advice, but I think English and French (pretty much all) ships were using stud-link cable at this point? Please accept this as a very MINOR criticism/suggestion and I remain an avid onlooker of your very fine work. regards Pat
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
BANYAN replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Thanks for looking in and the kind comments Eberhard and Rob. Eberhard, I have to admit defeat on this lanyards to date but.... I am still trying. The smallest thread I have still look so out of scale, even the fly tying threads. As these lanyards were not left permanently attached, but drawn from the magazine when closing up to action/battle stations, I may end up leaving them off. My currently battle is imitating the 'cheesed' rope coils on the gun tackles. I could do them separately and attach to te tackle, but it sort of looks wrong, so I am trying to 'cheese' the actual fall of the tackle as per the photograph. Rob, many thanks that is very kind of you to say; not much to look at at the moment as I struggle with finishing the guns - almost there . cheers Pat- 993 replies
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Those companionways are looking superb Keith; very impressive work. A suggestion to consider for the flags. Building on John's idea, when I had to do my hammocks at 1:72, I rolled them on a longer length of polystyrene rod (thinnest I could find ofjust under 1mm) this gave them the rigidity I needed but remove the rod before the glue sets up. You could use thin brass rod (0.5mm) also - a very diluted PVA mixture would be less inclined to stick? When dry, I reinserted the rod to give support while I cut to length. Knowing your ingenuity though, you have probably already tried this cheers Pat
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Wonderful craftsmanship; a joy to see these updates. cheers Pat
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Looking good Steven; wonderful collection of 'larger' perspective objects you have there in the form of pegs matches etc . You are probably already aware, but please consider sealing that balsa (a diluted pva and water solution works well) so that the glue for your planks is not wicked/soaked into the balsa when you get to lay the planks. cheers Pat
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Sounds like a useful tool Rob - any photos details most welcome please. I use a dental micro-motor with a straight and a contra angle handpiece but find the range of tools (2.35mm shank) a little limiting. cheers Pat
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Looks very good Gary; funny how sometimes you don't seem to have enough hours in the day when you retire cheers Pat
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Great job on the cleaning Steven, your patience has paid dividends. cheers Pat
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