BANYAN
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Haven't looked in for a while Keith as my PC was hacked and I have been rebuilding (the PC and not the model unfortunately ) - that boom turned out terrific. I will have to try your method as I tend to taper as I go on the lathe and as you pointed out, a steady rest is important for that technique. Your method would provide a better 'bed' for the rest being a series of flat steps. cheers Pat -
Just back after a PC disaster Rob (got hacked0 - sorry to hear you had to change the planned display position for your model but you seemed to have resolved a good solution. cheers Pat
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Ditto on the compliments Eberhard; just back with my new PC and catching up. Very nice workmanship as usual. cheers Pat
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Back up and running with my new PC (after being hacked ) - looks great Steven, nice recovery on the lower bank of oars, and I agree, they look very realistic. cheers Pat
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Greg, I purchased some 'high end' cutters from a company here in Australia (square and round/ball ended) down to 0.25mm, in both 2 and 4 flute versions depending on their size/availability. These are specially coated and not cheap, but I have had no issues whatsoever since purchasing them about 15 years ago. I have used them mainly on wood, but occasionally brass. I think that if you purchase from a reputable/good company such as Harvey Tools, they should be of equal quality? cheers Pat
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Some of the references to them being the same may be poorly worded references to when the jib and flying jib booms were made as one with a shoulder (akin to masts) used to define one from the other. this was more common in Clippers and ships built during the transition from sail to steam. HMCSS Victoria (1855) for example has such a combined 'pole' jib/flying jib. Hope that clarifies on point of contention in your research? cheers Pat
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One option/solution to the associated bit would be to use a small PVC/plastic (stiff) tube, cut to length and epoxied to the side of the jar? The length would be governed by the length of the bit, and leaving some length of the bit exposed to access it. The bottom can be plugged with wadded paper if cutting bit down; but I prefer to stand mine the other way around, so a small softwood plug would suffice. cheers Pat
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Well, you will be ready for a good long sleep by then Keith Nice solution to making the cranse iron, looks good so far. cheers Pat
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Hi, I purchased some Vanda-lay tools when I first started wood ship modelling some 20+ years ago and needed some basic mill and drill press setups on a budget. I used the Vanda-lay Industries set-up for a couple of years, but soon learned I needed something with a higher capacity, more stability, and more accuracy, and have since moved to Sherline and other products. For what they state they do, I found them OK. The dremel, and knock off drills, I used with it were securely held and for small jobs the drill press and cut off saw arrangement worked quite well - though restricted a little in what you can do with such a small set-up. The milling (X and Y tables) are another story though as I was never able to properly stabilize the 'Y' table enough to get accurate work in that axis. This may have been a defective part , or poor operator use, but I think it is more the way it is designed that you cannot get a very stable Y axis platform. That said, as a starting point for small work, where only small work is needed, it is sufficient to the needs. If looking for a mill, at that price point, you are well on the way to a more accurate, higher capacity mill such as a Proxon or even bench top midi-mill. The larger micro/midi mills, can allso be set up to do precision drilling, and small saw operations. All that said, I have seen magnificent models done with hand tools only, and for those smaller jobs this would be a reasonable tool to supplement your tool kit; but, if you are in for the long haul and looking at bashing kits or scratch building, a larger set up would be a good investment rather than using this as a stepping point - BUDGET would be your prime driver I think. I hope that this 'opinion' helps a little. cheers Pat
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Classic! that looks really good Michael; the wood grain/figuring really brings it to life. cheers Pat
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Hi all, before I post more widely I wish to do due diligence and survey members as to whether they are aware of any issues at SeaWatch Books? I am experiencing a delivery issue from them and I have had no response to several emails to them for near on three weeks now? Their web site does not advise of any closure etc. I know they are a small concern, and may be busy, but the failure to read/respond to emails for this long cannot be excused unless there is an underlying problem causing it. regards Pat
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Excellent craftsmanship (as usual) Keith; I think you would have no problem finding a job as a Master Metalsmith in any dockyard (new or old) cheers Pat
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Nice little 'home' for your creation you are assembling there Rob; look forward to seeing it complete. cheers Pat
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Very nice work Eberhard; they came up very well indeed as the inner and outer alignment appear 'perfect'. What is the masking film you have used as the straight/levelling edge please? cheers Pat
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Looks great Steven, and those oarsmen really set it off. As to my earlier comments, I was referencing the lining not so much a waterway. I think that a waterway as you have used it is the way to go. cheers Pat
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Thanks for raising this Mark, and for opinions expressed by other forum members. This is very useful information and while I am in no position to contribute, I will certainly file this way. cheers Pat
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Just show them the John Cleese 'Meetings B......y Meetings short movie - John Nice progress albeit slow; the planking looks very good. cheers Pat
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But where's the lock and key? Just kidding - darn that is some lovely work; you Sir are a magician with brass. cheers Pat
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Steven, not sure if a waterway would be necessary? If water was getting onto the upper deck, then would it not also flow down through the more central spaced planks also? Yes,, if sufficiently heelied, it may take the water to one side but how often would that occur if being rowed? If they had to cope with that, surely it would have coped with water from the edges also? More experienced people will provide better / more appropriate answers, but this is just offered as a 'thought' cheers Pat
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Remarkable indeed, especially at that scale. Very nice detail achieved in something so small. cheers Pat
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Hellppppp! someone pick me up off the floor. I am still stunned with the level of machining and manual skills you display here Michael. Between you and KeithAug, a collation of your various works would make the best Video/Image based tutorial for us 'apprentices'. That is some excellent work! Thanks for taking the time to document your processes. cheers Pat
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That will look very good Rob and a great way to show off the model. cheers Pat
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Test of Byrnes table saw
BANYAN replied to michael101's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
One thing that can be said of Jim's tools is that they are checked for true and tolerance before he ship's them. I don't think I have found another tool that is so well 'tuned' straight out of the box. That is not to say that shipping etc may have caused a small misalignment, but that would be unusual also as the tools are well packed - mine survived the trip to the other hemisphere unscathed. As Jim himself has identified, and Druxey suggested, the fence has a deliberate offset abaft the blade's arbor to ease the passage of the stock and cut piece. This is necessary as there is no riving knife/blade fitted to stop the wood binding abaft the blade, and this works well. I have cut planks from either the outside of the stock or the inside with no issue if you lock the fence as recommended (front first) . This will NOT cause the tool to cut out of true if as others have suggested you have checked the blade is correctly mounted. The saw is designed such that if the stock is fed in parallel then it will cut straight straight, and will not bind on the stock unless you get a large build up of sawdust for some reason. One major problem I encountered, until I realised what the issue was, is that the very fine slitting saw blades may flex when cutting thicker hard wood stock. All that said, I think the blade angular difference you see is this offset/easing. Only testing by cutting some stock and checking the trueness of the cut will confirm if you have an issue or not. Jim can manufacture a jig using a dial indicator to check parallelism if the need arises. If after checking your blade alignment etc, and measuring the cut stock with a vernier or micrometer etc for trueness and consistency, and you still find it is not cutting parallel, I would recommend you get in touch with Jim direct. He is very helpful in sorting these issues. cheers Pat -
Very nice work Al, those masts, and especially the chainwork for the Martingale/Dolphin Striker looks superb. cheers Pat
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