BANYAN

Couldn't you simply file it down in situ to a 'thinner' profile a, to me at least the 'diameter' or max OD of the nut is not too big? cheers Pat

Thanks again Carl and Eberhard. Carl, Eberhard has answered re the sprues much better than I could have. The part I am trying to assemble is 5mm long, with 5 x diminishing 'U' shaped supports. The long spine is the prop guard and the supports are equally spaced. By diminishing I mean the central support is 3mm apart at the base where they join the hull, the outr only 1.25mm - so you can see how small these parts (2) are and my frustration in trying to make them. Thanks for the detailed explanation Eberhard; appreciate the better understanding. cheers Pat

Thanks for the feedback Carl and Eberhard. Carl: I haven't tried it on this build as I have not had good results with it (may have been a bad batch?). That said, it may be worth relooking at - thanks. Eberhard: I have a hot air gun with variable settings (range similar to yours) with several nozzles. As above, I think I may have to relook at this. cheers Pat

Stunning work Keith, if I didn't know they were miniature I would have assumed they were the real thing! cheers Pat

Many thanks Eberhard, i'll have a poke around for some. I have now finished gluing and filling the hull components (x 4) together and primed/undercoated the hull. I have been holding off doing more as I have been waiting for some additional parts but I think these may have 'fallen through' so need to readdress the approach for those. i tried making from wire and soldering but I keep blowing it apart even at the lowest temps. i am experimenting making these (propeller guards) from styrene at the moment, but my first efforts don't look too flash. cheers Pat

Very handy items Paul, I use them to prepare brass for blackening also. The 'dust' fibres are just as bad as small cactus fruit burrs once they stick into your skin, they are a devil to get out (see for a starter) so I usually wear rubber gloves when using them. Don't ask me how I know about the cactus fruit cheers Pat

Try a machinery shop Carl (metal working tools especially but some woodworking also), as they normally carry them, just be sure to specify imperial and not metric if JBs saw. cheers Pat

Those 'repairs' are looking good Steven; lovely progress. cheers Pat

No probs Pat. the replica is somewhat different in some areas as they had to make some compromises to register/accredit the ship to carry passengers. this has resulted in a slightly longer ship, and some minor changes to the 'tops' to accommodate the rader and machinery etc. cheers Pat

Sorry Vossie, you need to get used to us Aussies - our typical response to being asked 'how are you', is "not half bad mate" - so 'pretty good' is a 'real compliment' - Glad I didn't say 'That's not bad mate' - I may have been run out of town cheers Pat

Hi Pat, thought I would check in and see how you are progressing. Nice build; the hull looks very nicely faired with a great finish to the planking. If you have any questions just holler (I'm just across the ditch ) For some alternate build/finish options check out the builds by Dave Rowe, Dashi and Shipaholic also. cheers Pat

Thanks Pat, much appreciate your kind words. I am happy to hear that you have found the build log useful. cheers Pat

Looks great Rob, boy you work fast with rigging (shows your experience with this) cheers Pat

Looks great GL! cheers Pat

Seems you have a very workable solution there Keith; and being nicely done (as Michael has already pointed out). cheers Pat

Thanks for sharing Woodeater; a couple of very useful techniques. I am a little ways of trying them yet but I have noted them cheers Pat

Ummm.... I forgot GR had four masts when i said you are near the end..... sorry. That said, you really are in the home stretch though. She's look great Rob. cheers Pat

Thanks mate, seems like our two vessels of interest may have a lot in common then. I'll keep you in the loop on anything else I find. The particular rig does seem to be 'steamer' related and most commonly referenced as a "Barque/Bark" rig. The main point of difference I am finding, at the moment at least, is that the upper masting in some ships with this rig were the more usual 'lower + topmast+ pole (combined topgallant and royal'; whereas, Victoria and many other had the two 'stick' configuration. Further to my find re the Survey Records Book for HMS Arrow (1854), I have now unearthed one for HMS Vigilant (1856), and both have the same rig and mast combinations. I will see what else I can derive from those records and let you know. cheers Pat

Thanks Eberhard, that is exactly what I am seeing in Victoria (the two stops); which begs the question which one . Apart from a discussion in Kipping (1854) about the combined topgallant/royal as a pole, there is precious other that I can find. Would appreciate seeing anything else you may turn up. cheers Pat

Hi again all, going back through my research materials I found an interesting (possible) link with the Arrow Class vessels (1854). These were a very slightly smaller version of the same type of vessel, as can be seen by comparing the specifications: HMCSS Victoria specifications: · Length: 166 feet (between perpendiculars). · Beam: 27 feet. · Depth of Hold: 16 feet. · Tonnage: 580 tons (burthen) - 880 tons by displacement. HMS Arrow specifications: · Length: 160 feet (between perpendiculars). · Beam: 25.4 feet. · Depth of Hold: 13.3 feet. · Tonnage: 476 tons (burthen). One of the items a researcher turned up for me was a 'Ship Survey Reports' book (my naming as there is none given) for HMS Arrow - the contents include. Note the following extracts for the three masts, which all refer to a pole style mast above the lower mast, so this confirms this masting convention was used in steam screw sloops at least. This description though better fits what Marquardt describes as a lower mast with tall pole. What I would like to determine from the listed parameters/dimensions is what is meant by: 'to stops' in column for length (first set of dimensions) of Fore and Main mast for the topgallant - there would have been two stops? Why different lengths between two dates very close together - probably as a result of first sea trials but looking for alternate possibilities? slightly different description in second set of dimensions Many thanks Pat

For some new information please see my other thread on masting at: cheers Pat

I am sure you can cope mate Looks a nice set of PE though. cheers Pat

Hi Pete, according to the 'Nautical Dictionary' by A. Young - 1863 (pdf copies of this dictionary are available online) A heel-rope is applied through the heel of anything, particularly that which is rove through a sheave at the heel of the jib-boom, or of the bowsprit, for the purpose of hauling it out. The ropes which are used at the heels of topmasts and topgallant masts are termed mast-ropes. I hope this clears it up? cheers Pat

Hi Ilhan, where you may require risers (for bulwarks) it may have been the same construction technique as for my build. HMCSS Victoria did not have rising timbers which were extensions of the frames etc like other ships built with the normal practice of construction. Rather, rising timbers (roughtree timbers as they were called) were added as 'stout' timbers to the hull at the appropriate places - these looked similar to, but were smaller, than the usual timbers; in Victoria's case the maximum size was 8 x 6 inches for major timbers, and 6 x 6 inches for minor roughtree timbers. As Eberhard points out though, you may not need many. cheers Pat

Nice reconstruction Steven. That scalpel foil does the job nicely; I will have to file that away for the future. Unfortunately, no joy finding that other article yet, but I have not given up just yet. cheers Pat