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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Superb! if I can ever achieve that level of model joinery I will be very happy; thanks for showing what can be achieved. cheers Pat
  2. Great looking progress there Steven, should be a nicely detailed bow/forecastle when complete. cheers Pat
  3. Nice rework John, tricky timbers those transoms and after timbers; looks like you have a good handle on them though. cheers Pat
  4. Hi Keith just catching up on your very nice build; missed the start of your log much to my disappointment. I will follow this build with considerable interest. Love that freezer bag clamp! WRT to the bulwarks, we experienced a similar issue with the build of HMCSS Victoria. The vessel was built on the diagonal planking system so there were no rising timbers to attach the bulwark planking to. One of our members came up with the idea of a temporary bracing jig which was waxed on the outer edges (could use wax paper also). We epoxied the lower strakes and bases of the roughtree timbers for additional strength. You will not need the spacers for the roughtree timbers for your build if you tried this method as you will have the rod supports to add later. This jig worked quite well for us and considerable additional rigidity and strength was gained with the the added roughtree timbers - the bulwarks are surprisingly strong considring they are 'added on'. The jig is made from three longitudinal pieces with the outer ones (port and stbd) sliding in and out to adjust to correct position and facilitate later removal; the central one was screwed to the top of the bulkheads to hold the jig in place. The nuts and washers you see were to secure the outer pieces once in position, then released to slide them back to the middle to remove the jig without interfering with the added bulwarks. We needed to add the extra piece at the transom for additional rigidity of the rig. The large block in the middle allowed us to place the whole jig/model assembly into a ball joint vice to better work on the lower strakes of the bulwark. cheers Pat
  5. She's looking very grand Rob; hopefully you won't run into any problems with the jib and stay sails. cheers Pat
  6. I too am a convert to resistance soldering GL, nice self-made rig you have made. The goal is always for practical application not winning any artistic merits cheers Pat
  7. Impressive marina you have there; thought of using them as props in the next 'Bond' film? On second thoughts, better not do that, they have a habit of blowing their toys to pieces. cheers Pat
  8. Thanks Eberhard, PE really helps with this. No way I could have cut those strips so consistently cheers Pat
  9. She looks great Dave; very nice job. As you said she looks particularly good with the backdrop painting, but as others have said keep the dust off her. cheers Pat
  10. Take as long as you like between updates if this is the result ED; very nice rigging work (as usual). I learned the hard way about cutting the tails of the running rigging to early cheers Pat
  11. Some further small updates; not much but a start on the Accommodation Ladder (by another member) and I have started on some rigging screws for the funnel chains and the first of the broadside gun breeching rope ring bolts. The first two photos show the top and under sides of the main part of the accommodation ladder - wood unknow. The second two photos shows the parts for, and the made up and blackened rigging screws, and ring bolt etc. The slightly larger rigging screw will be used elsewhere. cheers Pat
  12. Now you have 'dropped' him in it Steven A 'tongue in cheek' reference to our 'extremely' dangerous Koalas Druxey - cause a lot of damage and injury when they 'drop' out of the trees Just a warning to all those tourists looking up Sorry John hijacking your thread here. cheers Pat
  13. The world's weather is going nuts; floods and fires here, freezes and snow on the upper half - stay safe one and all. Sounds like you were well prepared at least Rob. cheers Pat
  14. Looking good Steven, and you have thought this through thoroughly . I think the idea of removable handles is a good one as the crew would still need to have access around the forecastle for various tasks. cheers Pat
  15. Hi all, I have a Lanco lathe that was given to me and for which I had plans to use in this hobby; however, I have decided the Sherline I have does all I need. I am selling this to get some money for more tooling for the Sherline. The Lathe comes in its original wood box, it is in good condition and spins freely. It uses 8mm collets (none included) which are readily available through the usual online shopping outlets on the internet. The photos show the lathe and the indexing stop; but I have not been able to determine what the bolts were for but were in the box. There are no other accessories but many are available through the above sources. These lathes are not cheap, but I will accept reasonable offers + shipping costs. Payment via PayPal or Direct Bank Deposit if interested please. Please PM me for details if seriously interested. cheers Pat
  16. That's looking pretty spiffy Patrick; a diamond finish for a real gem cheers Pat
  17. Mate, that's the way I work all the time - ALL at sea - Knowing your work I am sure it will be a thing of beauty when you finalise the transoms. cheers Pat
  18. Looks good Steven; I hadn't realised how small this was until you placed the match against it. some very nice 'bashing' there. cheers Pat
  19. Hi Mark, this is the galley stove funnel (charlie noble) which usually (as far as I know based on plans of contemporary vessels) did not rise through a grating but was fixed direct to the stove riser somehow (usually just a sleeve arrangement passing through some form of deck seal/gland (simple wood gland probably). Sometimes this joint/ joining point was below deck. All the plans simply show a circle where it penetrated the deck What I am trying to determine is whether this joint was below or above during this era, and if possible, determine whether it would have been a two part, telescopic, or single funnel arrangement. I doubt it would have been more than 6 inches diameter and made from lightly cast iron? As such probably did not need chain/wire supports or the like - but you have raised another interesting question with that - it is rather tall and any wind force would have put some strain on it? cheers Pat
  20. Rob, I have a dremel version (also no longer made) but I find it just a bit too big - have never got around to modding it - but eventually :). Yours looked a little smaller but seeing Keith's link I think it is about the same size? I think the base of yours would also make it a little more articulated? cheers Pat
  21. Very nice work Jason, I prefer the 0.3mm as well. Just noticed how nice the trunnion capping pieces are on the carriages. Did you make these? If not where did you get them? cheers Pat
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