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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Thanks Richard (sorry for using an incorrect name earlier). It is specifically for inches that I would find it very handy BUT. I am only one user and many may not use such a feature, making any change not worth the effort. There are quite a few online scale converters (and apps) out there but what makes yours unique and very useful, apart from the handy fractional input/output, is the ability to convert using other units of measurement (French etc). Have you given any thoughts to making this an App (Android please ) as converting from say an olde Dutch measurement into English Imperial or even to modern metric, is a real challenge even with a calculator and having this handy as a phone app would be really neat. Sorry if I am pushing the envelope a little here, just asking I very much appreciate you have made this available. Thanks for considering it. cheers Pat
  2. Hi Richard, great tool and another option in the arsenal. Is it possible to also allow it to accept decimal inches (eg 6.3 inches)? For Richard, I am no expert here but would that not also depend on the type of drawing format. I always try to get a scalable format (ie vector rather than bitmapped) so that the lines stay sharper - may be onb the wrong track here. cheers Pat
  3. Have an extra tot/beer to celebrate - nice work. cheers Pat
  4. Hi Keith, when I was over there recently I warned a friend that it would be a close series this time, I don't think he believed me. Now had we only found a way to 'hobble' Broad and Stokes ????? At least the Ashes stayed in their rightful possession cheers, and back to the modelling table with tail between legs. cheers Pat
  5. Nice work on the planking Keith, and much appreciate the tips on cutting the joggles. cheers Pat
  6. Nice work with the death star Mark. Do you have plans t put a temporary riband on those extensions to help brace and protect them? cheers Pat
  7. Who would know what level of 'iggerence' you were at, or had the potential to show, back then mate; I say do it to your current level of 'ignorance'. I show/demonstrate mine on a near-daily basis and have become somewhat 'immune' to outside comments. cheers Pat
  8. Looking good Steven; your lady of the sea is showing her finery now. cheers Pat
  9. Hi Rob, you just need to motorise the 'buggy' and you'll have the Rolls Royce solution What is the hobby you use it for? Astronomy, bird watching --- other? cheers Pat
  10. Hi Anthony, I am not familiar with the Corel kit, but the guns were definitely fitted on the upper decks (see the various build logs including mine for their placement). While there are a few errors in the AOTS by Karl Marquardt, the majority of his drawings are safe to follow - the various build logs identify where the issues are. The following link shows my partially completed build and where I positioned the guns (about half way down); although there is some conjecture that two of these may actually have been on the quarterdeck/poop deck. Allan, as far as I can ascertain, the other ports are airing ports as the spacing and height variance would have made them very awkward but not impossible for use with sweeps. I do recall a mention of sweeps but my assumption (I know - dangerous) has been that the sweeps were used from the upper deck. It has been a while since I researched this vessel, but I think there is actually mention of them as airing ports in his logs/journals? cheers Pat
  11. Nice job (and surgery) Steven, now onto the 'cloning' process cheers Pat
  12. Hi Anthony, Endeavour did not have gun ports as all the guns were located on the upper deck. What you portray are the loading ports (from her earlier days pre-conversion. The smaller ones in the drawings are the airing ports. cheers Pat
  13. This is a beautiful model Al - looks even better in the real world cheers Pat
  14. Mark, you could always laminate thinner lengths of the backbone using locating holes for pins to align them - resulting in a thicker ply? cheers Pat
  15. Great gundeck BW; I think you 'nailed' the ringbolt positioning. That supervisor of yours gets around doesn't he; I hope he has received an extra 'tot' fr his efforts cheers Pat
  16. Just to add to the conversation; whatever you use you have to consider that wood WILL move (swell/reduce) with humidity etc. If using grained woods try to match the grain direction on both sides using the same wood type. If no room is allowed between some sections it may distort the hull but probably minimal? May not be as great an issue once all the planks are on as this will provide additional rigidity. The more experienced will know. The bulkheads are usually ply so they are not prone to this wood movement. I have used balasa successfully BUT I always coat the outer (gluing) surface with a diluted PVA glue solution to fill the 'pores' and give a better sticking surface to the filler. cheers Pat
  17. Sorry to enter late Mark, but gad to see you back in the workshop and making great progress - an interesting subject and your previous experience with Licorne will help greatly. cheers Pat
  18. I agree with your summation Hallibag as to it being from the Arsenal - Carriage Department. The Rod stamped on it may indicate a proofing device for some of the rods used in the the carriage (1926)? The attached may have something as there are 3 parts - Army, Coastal Defense and Naval gun Carriages discussed. I have only perused the Naval section (Part 3) at the moment and do not recall seeing it, but.... cheers Pat Treatise_on_military_carriages_ W Kemmis 1974.pdf
  19. Nice job on the sea 'colour' - looks like a Force 6-7 on the Beaufort scale. cheers Pat
  20. You're making good and fast progress there Steven. cheers Pat
  21. Sorting yourself out is the highest priority mate; ships in ordinary stayed there for years. My thoughts and wishes are with you. regards Pat
  22. WRT to the upper stringer/strake on top of the gunwale - that was just 'planning for the future' wasn't it Far easier to carve/place the mortices in the new strake for the bench tenons, then cutting slots cheers Pat
  23. Hi Dave, following your build with some interest as I am making a version for use with my 'Air Eraser'. I have read that the fumes from paint can be a fire hazard and that the extractor fans should be well away? I note though that many manufacturers have them on the booth body as well so can't be that much of a problem, especially if there is a filter ayer before the motor? Have you investigated this? cheers Pat
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