Gregory

How much time?

Isn't just bout any material going to change with humidity if it is not sealed in some way?

Thanks for checking it out and reporting back.

Here is an image I found.

What kerf are you looking for?

Why do they have to be metal?

The one on the right is looking good..  Just take care to remember the holes are square, so the battens should be shaped to make that happen..

I'm not sure what the pluses and minuses are for the increased tooth count..   Someone with more info would have to chime in..

On 6/12/2021 at 4:11 PM, Chuck said:

One is made entirely of Boxwood while the other is made almost entirely of Yellow cedar. 

While I am well aware of the qualitiies of boxwood, the cedar has more of a glow.

I look forward to seeing how it ages.. 

 I wouldn't want to wait 200 years for the boxwood to take on the amber look that looks so well.😁

13 minutes ago, allanyed said:

My blade is a three inch diameter blade with about 200 teeth for the circumference of the blade and is a jewelers' slotting blade.

Allan, I think Don is looking for a source..  Do you have one?

I would be interested also..

Thanks

I get the cutting blades from Malco.    On my last orders a few months ago, they have required $100 minimum order.

I don't see any thing in the 200 tooth range.   I know I have made super fine cuts with teeth in the ~100 range.

Byrnes also sells blades   Not sure about the arbors, but they also sell arbor adaptors..

For the gratings look for a thickness that suits your job.  

At that scale, and with all the fittings and deck furniture, I don't think the center line will be all that obvious.

However, I understand how that sort of thing can eat at you.

Have you tried changing the file extension to .STP and see if Tinker can see it?

You might consider installing the free version of Fusion 360, import the STEP files, then export them in a format TinkerCAD can use..

Meanwhile you might want to up your game by playing around with Fusion360..

While you are here..

Have you heard of Meshcam ?

While it targets  CNC  users, it is a very powerful tool for refining STL files..

It is not free, but some might find it a worthwhile investment.

Here is a demo video of what it can do..

Meshcam Video

Do you mean Blender ?

Blender seems to be more about 3D animation rather than creating objects for 3D printing.

Fusion 360 might be more of a go-to for parts creation.

It's free for hobbyists.

I'm revisiting this in response to the original post.

On 3/2/2021 at 2:26 PM, Tomculb said:

What methods and dyes have people successfully used to get the color they want?

There was a discussion about staining/dyeing boxwood where it was agreed boxwood doesn't take some stains very well.  One or more people mentioned dyeing with an alcohol based stain.

I proceeded to get some  Fiebling's dark brown shoe dye to experiment.  It actually worked pretty good to make my boxwood blocks darker.

I had thought, and mentioned above, that I didn't think synthetic/polyester would take dye very well, with the idea that it was like trying to dye plastic and wouldn't stick.

Well, I was wrong.

On a whim, I dyed some of my home made polyester rope with the above mentioned dye and it really worked pretty good.

Top is before, bottom is same rope dyed.  ( Please ignore the unravelling..    That happened before I baked my rope.. )

Getting the color you want could take a lot of experimenting, and have a lot to do with the color you start with.

For home rope makers, I see it as a way to avoid getting different colored thread for standing and running rigging..

Find a good light color you like for running rigging, then dye it dark for the standing..

Note: The dye can be very messy, but it cleans up pretty easily with alcohol, depending on how long it sits before you get to it..

7 hours ago, DaveBaxt said:

 That sounds like a good way to do this but could be a little tricky as I have already fitted sections for strengthening

When I described extra bulkheads, they don't have to extend to the backbone like the original framing.

All you are looking to do is fill out the outer profile to provide a surface for planking. Just add what amounts to shims

to the edges of the existing bulkheads.  Create as many layers as you feel necessary.  It is a lot like adding blocks, but laminated so

you can reduce the amount of shaping needed.

I would use bass.  I personally  wouldn't go for a solid fill. 

I would add what amounts to several additional bulkheads, using maybe 3/16 -1/4  sheet.

Use the plans/existing bulkheads to interpolate the shape..

On 6/6/2021 at 12:04 PM, glbarlow said:

Normally I replace kit rope with Syren products but that is no longer an option and I have little interest in making my own. 

I'm going to toss this out here..

I can make what I feel is very acceptable model rope..  However, I do not think I want to go into the model rope making business..

If someone has a particular project, with details in color and size, I would enjoy working with them to provide the rope they need.

The cost would basically be postage and materials.  I do not have the space to create 20 foot lengths like Syren used to do.

It would be more in the 4 to 5 foot range.

Of course, I could provide as many 5 foot pieces  as someone might think they need.

I never made anything for my own use that was more than a couple of feet.  No one line in a project was ever longer than that.

Send me a message if you would like to discuss this or get a sample..

The gun ports outside the forecastle and the quarterdeck are on the weather deck.  Port lids would serve no purpose..

Are they going to be visible on the finished model?

10 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:

The problem, however, is that no copper hull sheathing was ever riveted to a hull. Not once. Not ever. Fastenings were copper tacks.

Interesting how this keeps getting lost or ignored in the discussion..

11 hours ago, druxey said:

If you absolutely want to pounce at scale, use watch gears.

Like these:  

Watch Old Parts Gears Wheels

3 minutes ago, Bob Cleek said:

significantly detract from the model's appearance. 

Especially  the ones that thought it was a good idea to randomly color some of the plates by heat treating them..

That wasn't you, was it?😁

55 minutes ago, Roger Pellett said:

..piece of brass rod can be chucked in a Dremel tool and the top rounded.

The wood  " bowling pin " versions can be made to look better also..

I'm reminded of:

" Are you building a model of a ship or a miniature ship ? "

Taking Jaager's comments a bit further:

New Copper Sheathing  ( Constitution )

Nails barely visible..

What scale?  .3mm Sounds kind of thick?