Gregory

Here is what Lees says about  jib boom horses:

Sounds like what I had come to understand..  Note that there is no mention of stirrups for these foot ropes.

Now, what about this..

Here are the illustrations for the bowsprit foot ropes.

I'm having trouble understanding these..  Did they not stand on them, but just hold them while standing on the bowsprit.

How did they do any work while holding on?

P.S.

I had a few of these fly across the room before i refined the process.   My spindle is a toothpick that I forced the truck onto until it was tight,

but not so tight that it  could not turn if the torque got too high.

  With hindsight, a little nut on the end of the toothpick would have kept the truck from going frisbee on me..

Rusty, I know you are a skilled craftsman, and possibly considered this, but I had great results cleaning my trucks on a low speed rotary tool..

Too late for you, but might help someone else..

1 hour ago, Gregory said:

It is highly unlikely that Core used the actual plans of a ship of that name..

Looks like I stand to be corrected.. 

20 minutes ago, JimmyK said:

My major problem with this kit is actually what am I building. Is it really the Flying Fish?

There were probably any number of ships/boats named " Flying Fish .. 

It is highly unlikely that Core used the actual plans of a ship of that name..

Don't let that stop you from enjoying the experience..

30 minutes ago, popeye2sea said:

...tarring would just as effectively keep all the wet in and the cable would never dry out and eventually rot.

I would think Lees would have mentioned this.  Maybe someone else can check before I can get to my library..

Lavery goes into great detail about anchors and cables, but doesn't mention tarring..

He does say a 74 would have had 7, 22inch cables of 120 fathoms.  That would have been a lot of tar that would need to be replenished..

Here is a link to Chuck's recipes..

Like Chuck says, your end result can be slightly different depending on how your machine does things, but it should be close..

I'm sure Chuck can add more, but I don't know if he can tell about sources in Australia..

With Mara, the higher the number the finer the thread.

Tex appears to be the opposite.

There is a chart with Chuck's rope recipes here somewhere..  I will try to find it if someone doesn't beat me to it..

Wawak is where I get my thread in the US..  Here is a page with the Gutermann polyesters they carry.

It is really hard to know what the color will be in person by looking at their color chips.

I use their 2827 which is a hemp color and 446 which is a real dark brown,  but maybe not as close to black as some might prefer..

I use several different Mara numbers depending on the desire rope size..

Food for thought:

The cartoon about the $15 saw blade..  About $145 today..

9 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

.... but why the stop, yet another of the myriad of  questions constantly buzzing around my head that I don't have the answer to.

Why? 

While I respect the idea of checking the tables, standards, establishments and such, this is a time when you might think about " What looks good ? "

We should have lots of good( and bad) examples in our build logs..

Here is a great example from archjofo's La Creole

Let archjofo know if his ropes do not conform to the establishments..😁

Are the alcohol based dyes like Fiebing's  a potential problem?

18 hours ago, Jaager said:

  I am not sure that any finish will be 100% successful at preventing the hull wood from equilibration with the temperature, O2, and water vapor of its environment. 

I'm just wondering if a uniform finish, inside or out, would provide a more uniform response to the elements, regardless of the severity of the environment..

You don't think there is any need to minimize the effects of temperature and humidity?

The galley stack that far aft seems a bit anachronistic to me, but I can't say for sure if it is wrong..

Looks like some nice progress in spite of lack of proper direction..

Every build is a learning experience..

Like Kieth says your best help will be other build logs.  Similar rigs ( schooners ) will be of help.

Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft - by Lenarth Petersson should be some help..

Here is a topic by Dr PR that will be a lot of help

A lot gets lost in translation with many European ( not UK ) kits.

The 'ring with leg' is an eyebolt..

A big problem with Corel is they will create a kit based on lines from a public domain source then proceed to make everything else up..

It may include some accurate information, but it can be hard to sort out. ( My Resolution build is a good example)

With a good rigging guide as mentioned above, you can ignore the kit rigging plans..

8 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Now there will be 10 contrary opinions 

Not from me..

May be too late this time, but next time you should consider providing a rabbet ( groove ) at the stem for your planking to sit into.

Been a while since an update, but I have been slowly going forward with rigging..

A lot of hooks blocks and tackles.  Not really tying anything off at this point.  Yards are made, but not ready for prime time yet.

2 hours ago, Captain Slog said:

However it would appear that recently a member has been banned?/all trace removed because his nautical knowledge level didn’t meet the requirements of certain MSW ‘Experts’ and/or he had the audacity to show case his (erroneous) workmanship by posting links to his YouTube videos and/or his posting habits didn’t meet the ‘Experts’ expectations.

Spamming the forum with what amounts to click-bait is against forum rules.

That is all the member in question is doing so far with their activity here.

They were/are not participating in any discussion about model building, or offering the opportunity to discuss the merits of their information.

May I ask what " termite fluid " is?

What year was Lowestoft?  Lavery says up to 1750 only on spanshackle was fitted near the centerline.

That model appears to follow that convention..

On 12/5/2021 at 3:12 PM, BrankoSNY said:

How to make Miniature model deadeyes

Your video shows what might be called  " bulls eyes " ..  A sort of wood thimble.  They may have served the same purpose as deadeyes in certain situations..

If we are going to help fellow modelers, it s important to provide correct information..

PS

When I said 250 oven, that would be Fahrenheit..

On 12/2/2021 at 11:03 PM, thibaultron said:

...if you never change the “0” positions of the axis. You have to do this for most jobs,

Haven't explored this with CNC, but with my laser , I have a set home position (effectively '0' ), then I am able to  just position my drawing in the software workspace so it aligns with laser '0' ..

Do you not have a similar option with your software?