Gregory

12 hours ago, TBlack said:

Furthermore, in other ships with a wheel, regardless of where it was situated, had to deal with the same mechanics and space, right?

Well, no.. All ships with a wheel did not have the same amount of space below decks to accommodate tiller mechanics, but it would have  been adequate for the tiller as designed.

Where does your rudder enter the transom?

What kind of space do you have at that point for the swing of the tiller?

The cables would do that if space permitted, however you have to consider how far up into the boat the rudder post extends in your ship as she sits.

Is there enough lateral room for the tiller to swing below the cabin?

Any details about the results?

Did Aubrey talk about the tiller and accompanying rigging that would have complemented  a wheel?

Your earlier drawings would put the tiller  and cabling somewhere in the great cabin...

Well, Tom says he wants to build according to the book, so I suspect Sophie will have a wheel..😀

Definitely Historic Ship Models by Wolfram Zu Monfeld..

Considering they are free, any number of the instruction books available at ModelExpo would be my 2nd choice..

Particularly the one's by Chuck Passaro..  They are like tutorials that would apply to any number of ships besides the kit they

are written for.

A good example is the US Brig Syren

Look down the page for the 20 part instructions.

You will find similar if not as detailed, instructions for all Model Shipways kits..

They are not just instructions for the kit in question, they provide a lot of basic kit building and rigging information.

Very nice look of the rudder!

3 hours ago, Overworked724 said:

Now getting ready for the part which has given me frets and the area I particularly struggled on the Sultana…the Pintles and Gudgeons!

You may have it finished by the time you read this, but have you considered faking the Pintles and Gudgeons?

The method is to pin the rudder to the stern post, then use card or tape to simulate the straps..

One of my pins is not as well hidden as it should be..  Do you see it?

202mm x 64mm = 12,928 = 508.97638 inches = 42.4 feet, which sounds realistic for a beam of 30 feet..

1 hour ago, Srodbro said:

Just a quick follow up and I’ll recede into the background:

 

The original main yard that Aubrey was not satisfied with was described thus:

Jack went to the rail and looked sharply at the sea running by, the long curve as it rose after the hollow under the lee-bow: he grunted and returned to his staring at the mainyard, a piece of wood rather more than thirty feet long and tapering from some seven inches in the slings, the middle part, to three at the yard-arms, the extremities.

What was the reason given for his dissatisfaction?

20 hours ago, Rgpracer said:

I don't have a clue how to figure scale or what manufacturer it is.

For future reference, if you know the measurements for the full size ship, you can divide that by the same dimension of the model and get an approximation..

Or Divide the full size dimension by the scale and see what you get.

A length I see for Victory is 186 feet on the gun deck..  Divide by 98 and you get 1.897  feet or about 22.7 inches.

So if your victory model is close to 23 inches on the gun deck, I would consider it close to 1:98..

Close enough that it is unlikely to be another common scale, such as 1:72 or 

19 hours ago, Charter33 said:

I'd start by soaking the  strip for about 5 minutes and see how that goes.

The idea is to apply a heat source to the wet plank.

Water is a better transferrer of heat than air. 

Not knowing how your steamer works, a small iron is probably better..

I believe a couple of our members use this or something similar

.Steamfast SF-717 Mini Steam Iron

Take a look here:

Are you referring to:

https://modelshipworld.com/forum/77-medway-long-boat-1742-public-group-project/

Your question appears to refer to more than one model..

2mm Sounds a bit thick for the amount of bend in that area.

You might try thinning it down to at most 1.5 mm.  Try soaking the strip before bending it in place, then let it dry before gluing..

Also note that it may tend to split more depending on the direction of the bend.  Start your bend, and if it looks like it wants to split, try bending in the other direction.

Has anyone referred you to Petersson's Rigging Period Fore and Aft Craft?

One has to keep in mind that the author simply documented what he observed on a contemporary model.

While the information appears to be accurate in many respects, some problems have been pointed out, here and there.

Here are his diagrams of the the throat and peak halyard rigging for " .. a typical American schooner."

Along with all the other information you have been provided, this should be of some help..

Yes, they are Bob Smith..

FWIW, whenever I get an upload error, I change the format of the picture, say from .JPG to .PNG and it usually works..

10 hours ago, FrankWouts said:

...but also be considered should be that sometimes a huge amount of muscle force was used to lower or raise the guns to aim...so little more robust would be my taste as well.

I don't think the quoin would have been used to raise and lower the gun, rather it was moved into position after the fact..

I would go with what looks good..

You did a great job with what the kit provided.. 

What is the actual size of those plates?

I see coppering as a personal preference as to how you want the model to appear..

How many people outside of our community are going to look at a coppered model and say " Oh, those copper  plates are too thick and out of scale.. " ?

I wasn't suggesting the overlap was not used, in fact, it would seem to be essential, similar to the principals in laying shingles..

I was just questioning the usefulness/ appearance or lack thereof, when modeling..

How relevant is the thickness if you don't overlap?

The overlap is not apparent in the images of the Cutty Sark and Constitution presented earlier..

Plus, there are various thicknesses available.   I saw one that was .025mm.

It doesn't appear to be listed in the specs, but if you ask, you will get a good answer from the seller/manufacturer..

Copper foil tape is available in 1/4 - 1.5 inch diameters.

Those who are so inclined, can adjust the size..

On 12/25/2021 at 11:03 AM, Tommy Vercetti said:

17th century frigates.

Historic Ship Model  by Mondfeld has a lot of general information ..  Can be a good place to start.

Here is an example ..  Topmasts and topgallants were for the most part made from single timbers and not built up like lower masts..

You might find this to be of some help: