Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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Fusion 360 is great for 2D and 3d.. Free for personal use.. -
While we are at it: I just came across this in my browsing. An America model by Loyd McCaffery I can see myself using a similar design on a future project.. Simple but very elegant.
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Any other Glowforge laser cutter/etcher users?
Gregory replied to Tim Holt's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
Does Glowforge have air assist? It will reduce charring somewhat. I have found the amount of charring has the most to do with the type of wood and how seasoned it is. -
I think the pear would be great for a custom base/cradle/pedestals. You can get some good ideas from the models at NMM
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Frolic style ropewalk plans
Gregory replied to Chuck's topic in Rope Making/Ropewalks's Ropewalk Plans/Downloads
Embedded in the PDF are some links: Those links are broken. The domain is dead..
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Once again Chris, my comments were not questioning the quality of your work. I just found the MDF cradle to look rather incongruous in the context of the box art..
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The acetate is very nice. I was reluctant to make comments that sound critical, I just felt the MDF cradle really detracted from the otherwise beautiful model in the photographs..
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Chris, Any thoughts on coming up with display pedestals for your box art and promo pictures that are a little more in keeping with the quality of this beautiful piece of art? I realize display option details will be up to each builder, but I find the base as shown somewhat distracting from the rest of the fine workmanship.
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He had a build log for the ZHL Royal Caroline, a knock off of the Mantua/Panart kit, over at another forum.
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Bob Hunt was once a respected contributor to the ship modeling community, but he has chosen to go over to the dark side and support the theft of intellectual property.. https://modelshipworld.com/forum/149-our-stance-on-piracy-in-the-hobby/ I would not recommend supporting his business.. It's ironic in that he has often complained of people stealing his intellectual and real property..
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How to stain or dye boxwood?
Gregory replied to tkay11's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I have seen many contemporary models where the blocks are approaching black.. Then there are these, which I believe may be boxwood, as the color is a lot like very old boxwood carvings I have seen. I have seen similar blocks on other contemporary models. If I could source blocks like this, it would never occur to me to try to stain them, but as I said above, I really don't want to wait 200 years for the color to develop. The boxwood blocks I have acquired from Syren, the quality of which can't be matched from any other source, are too light for my taste. After reading the info in this discussion I have dyed some of my 'Chuck' blocks with some Fiebing's leather dye with results I like.
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Exactly.. Hard to wrap my head around this with no sail present.. It would be like adding reef points with no sails..
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Like you, I don't want to struggle with these numbers, but you might find this interesting.. With your Rope Rocket at 26 feet moving 3 feet with tensioning, that comes out to about 11.5%. I checked my rope walk, and with 55 inches of thread, it starts to lay up after the looper travels about 6.5 inches, or 11.8%..
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Like Chuck says, you can over think it, and gain absolutely nothing.. FWIW, with my set-up, when you have twisted the yarns enough, the rope starts to lay up.. This will vary with the type of thread.. Counting would be pointless.. I have been curious about what the RPM of my whorl gears are.. I might get around to checking it someday..
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The laying up is only a small fraction of the twisting of the strands, and it also depends on the length of the rope. The longer the rope, the more twists in the lay up. I have a more traditional rope walk with motor driven whorls and a looper that is driven by tension. I would guess the yarns/threads are twisted hundreds of times for each twist in the strands in the layed up rope.
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There are the trees, and there is the forest.. While the rigging in many ways defines these ships and their models, what the modeler hopes to achieve is worth consideration.. If you are going to model without sails, I feel a lot of the sail handling rigging would detract from what you have in the absence of sails..
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Without sails, I think braces and lifts make for a clean look.
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NRG Capstan Project
Gregory replied to tlevine's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Looking for an opinion.. Chuck had posted a picture of this contemporary model in another topic.. I had asked about the eyebolts but no one responded. There are only two, and they look a little heavy for the bar retention pins as shown on your model. After seeing your model, I thought maybe they might put several pins on one eyebolt. Another thought was, did they sometimes move the upper capstan out of the way? In which case the eyebolts might be for attaching tackle.
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Thanks for all the info...
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Sorry I'm late to this discussion, but when I see the pictures of this ship, and consider it is a "medium " clipper, what is an example of a " large " clipper?
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... which is really important to keep in mind. It has been mentioned before that it is easy to make visible dents with your fingernails.
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Really looking good..
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I'm confident if the modelers of antiquity could have got there hands on a laser cutter or a Byrnes saw they wouldn't have hesitated to use it..😁 It also makes a difference if it's a full time, paying job.
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A few more details.. I added the channels . ( Ignore the topsy turvy cannon in the background.. The armorers are still mucking about..) I turned some typical commercial belaying pins into something a little more presentable.. Added the main pin rails. Some pin rails in the bow. The kit provided swivel guns are not bad, The mounts shown on the plans are fairly benign, and not much more than strip wood. I proceeded to jazz them up a bit, and drew upon the look of various swivel mounts seen here at MSW. There are going to be 16 total, but I am going to hold off mounting them until most of the rigging is done. My main go to pic was from a build of HMS Fly by Bill Maxwell over at Admiralty Models Thats it for now..
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