49 minutes ago, Jaager said:

Your blade is up too high..  I

Just a random picture..

I adjust the blade based on the height of the billet being cut..

What do you see as a problem with the tape as a zero clearance insert?

There is a definite need for Zero clearance inserts for our table saws.

Replacements are not that expensive, and it's good to have one for different blades.

I've been doing this:

I put a strip of masking or duct tape over the opening ( over default insert with about 1/4 clearance insert underneath )..

Hasn't caused any problems I'm aware of.

Why might it be a bad idea?

Strange looking collet..  

With no more information I would think it is upside down..

The collets I am familiar with look like this:

The collet and retainer appear to be upside down.

Looking at the manual I'm even more convinced..

If you continue un-screwing, the whole thing should come off if you can find some way to lock the shaft..

I just noticed the belaying pins in the image above..

Did those come in the kit, and are they wood?

They look a lot better than most kit provided pins..

20 minutes ago, Will Ferris said:

Oh.  After they're in place.  - Thank you Greg.

If it wasn't clear, I was referring to one plank at a time ; before laying the next plank..

Sounds messy..

A pencil along the edge after the plank is in place makes for a good effect and is easy to do..

Have you seen this one?

The Schooner: Its Design and Development from 1600 to the Present Paperback – March 1, 2001

It looks like it may be fairly comprehensive as well..

1 hour ago, lesterpalifka said:

I really could use some guidance on this. 

What kind of help do you need?

There is another scratch build of Bounty going on by AdamA ..  You might check it out.

3 hours ago, allanyed said:

Which of the many Resolutions are you building? 

My log explains that 'Resolution" is a name chosen by  Corel  with no resemblance to any actual ' Resolution ' on record.

Also explained in my log, the lines are a close match to drawings found at the NMM for Ferret 1711.

The drawings say it is " ... a cutter-rigged Sloop. " ...

I try not to struggle too much with rope sizes based on tables or establishments..  I look at contemporary and other well made models and try to get a look that is well proportioned.

1 hour ago, Will Ferris said:

Where on earth did you come up with the egg?

Don't remember exactly, but came across it somewhere.  Think " rotten egg smell "...  Has to do with outgassing sulfur compounds.

If I were going to patina a ( model  ) ship's bottom, I would enclose it in an upside down box or something similar, the more airtight the better, and have several chopped boiled eggs in there with it.  Just a few hours should do it.

Not as messy as having to brush something on, then wipe it off.

I really like the look of the wood on the hull!

38 minutes ago, Will Ferris said:

What would you guys recommend for a decent patinating solution for the copper? 

Once the copper is all done, assuming it doesn't have some kind of coating on it, just clean it real good with acetone and it will develop a nice patina in a few months.

If you  want something a little faster, put it in an enclosed space with a few chopped boiled eggs..

Check every few hours untill it looks like you want.

This is copper leaf that I put in a bag with a chopped boiled egg overnight..

This one?

Masting and Rigging Spreadsheet

Thanks for getting me there.

5 hours ago, allanyed said:

Have you looked at the mast, spar, and rope sizes on the spread sheet here at MSW? 

Do you by chance have a link for that?

Searching for stuff here is not as intuitive ( for me anyway ) as you think it might be..

10 hours ago, DaveBaxt said:

Thank you Pop eye for taking the time to explain this to me. Your patience holds no bounds.

 Isn't it really great when someone takes the time to explain something rather than telling us to go look in " $200 Book " ..

This epitomizes the true worth of these forums..

Great update..  The FA is on my " soon to do list " ..

I look forward to seeing how the CNC and laser can embellish the kit..

Did you consider using the laser to square up the window frames?

14 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

There are no rules about building a model in any way you wish, but I think perhaps you are approaching the subject with the wrong mindset.

I have to 2nd Blue Ensign on this.

The reason most wood ship kits are never finished is because even the most simple ones are not simple.

Take a look at the index of build logs.  Note how many are " Finished "  Note how many haven't been updated in 5 or more years..

Few people have the patience to see these kits through to the end..

This came up when I was working on my Mary..

Similar boats have double vangs..

1 minute ago, SpyGlass said:

Depends upon what you mean by a vang. 

On an 1820 Baltimore schooner, I assumed he meant these..

... from the topic i referenced above..

I'm surprised you didn't get more any replies..  This must have slipped off the radar.

There is an excellent topic regarding  topsail schooner rigging.

Here is the post that has some info regarding vangs.

Chris,

I was just looking in on the Sphinx build and the stove caught my attention.

That looks like a great mini kit to offer in your store.

Any plans to offer things like this or your other kits like capstans, pumps & etc. ?

James, what is the software you use for creating the manual?  It looks very robust?

On 3/27/2021 at 6:49 AM, Alexisgm97 said:

Mantua's instructions say that it can be removed with sand-paper but I'm afraid it can be too abrasive and mess it up.

It's only too abrasive when it's too abrasive...

The grit on these start at 1500 and is used for polishing.

Grit 1500 2000 2500 3000 5000 7000 High Precision Polishing Sanding Wet/dry Abrasive Sandpaper Sheets - Germany, Pack of 12

Bill97, 

Since your actual question is about color of 3rd party rope, I think you will find that dark brown is in favor for standing rigging, and a hemp color for running..

Since you are going to the expense and trouble of buying out of the box, look for quality that actually looks like miniature rope, and not just different sizes of string/cord..

Here is a post about one of our sponsors CraftySailor

Do the considerations remain consistent at scale?