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Gregory

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Everything posted by Gregory

  1. There is a nice article on deck planking in the NRG's article data base. Simple Butt-Shift Deck Planking
  2. The banding certainly doesn't show up in you photos.. I cant imagine anyone calling you on it as a point of contention...
  3. The cannon look really good. No layering sometimes seen with 3D printing..
  4. Try sandwiching the plate between two pieces of masking tape. When you pull the tape apart the backing should come free. with no damage to the foil.
  5. This will take a while longer than the quarter deck, but it should go relatively faster with the lessons learned.
  6. P.S. I have picked up so many tips from the other members here, I may not always remember to give credit where credit is due. With that in mind, I want to say that I got the idea for the scarfed planks near the margin from Chuck's instructions for the USF Confederacy. The instructions for most, if not all of Chucks designs are available for free at Model Expo, and they are an incredible resource for detail work. However, they are a mixed blessing in that they really set the bar high, and make it a little difficult for me to reach a point where I can say " O.K., That's good enough; time to move on.
  7. Finished up the quarterdeck planking. If you compare my finished work to the last post, I decided to increase the number of imaginary beams under the quarterdeck. Three would have been unlikely and it made it difficult make the scarfed planks look nailed realistically. It is my understanding that ' nibbing ' wasn't done in the period ( 1711 ) this ship represents, so I shaped the outer planks with hook scarfs to avoid points butting into the margin. As I was finishing this up, I was reminded of why I like to do this off the ship.. I had completed, or thought I had, the work you see above and was applying some poly when I realized I had left out a plank on the left side of the deck. It was obvious after the fact, but I had spent so much time staring at the tree nail pattern, I guess I saw what I wanted to see. Anyway I was able to splice in the missing plank/s with very little effort compared to the problem it would have been if all the planks had been glued onto the false deck. Instead of just splicing in a plank, all of the planks to the left of the missing one, would have to have been ripped out.
  8. Just recieved an email that ModelExpo is open online and shipping orders.
  9. Don't forget the build log index..
  10. No update for a while but I haven't been entirely idle. I have almost completed the first planking, but it is uglier than I would care to share at the moment.. I have continued work on my gun carriages. Fine tuning the design, and experimenting with different wood, in an effort to come up with a final plan. Meanwhile, I'm still exploring the use of my laser cutter to refine what can be done with this kit. When it comes to planking the deck, I like to do it off of the ship. I print the deck plan on tracing paper, then glue the planks onto the paper. This is a first effort with planks made from maple veneer with my laser cutter. I feel the laser char takes care of the simulated caulking. (.. to be honest, not the first effort, but the first time I'm happy enough to show what I've come up with ) I hope to be showing more progress in the near future. Anyone who has experimented with fabricating their own parts, can probably attest to the amount of time you can spend trying to get it perfect, which never really happens.
  11. Do you have a lower end 2D photo editing program with layers, such as Photoshop Elements or Corel Paint shop?
  12. Sorry for the confusion.. I was replying to VTHokiEE regarding the laser he linked to on Amazon..
  13. I have had one of those for a while. They do some serious cutting. ( not metal ) You need to be ready to do a little modification to make it versatile, but you can google " K40 " laser modifications, and see a lot of useful information. I have heard some people having a bad experience with out of the box alignment problems, or not working at all. I was fortunate not to have any problems other than the learning curve.
  14. Does it actually give you a " flat " rendering on the screen? You could do a screen capture , and do some size tweaking in a drawing program where you have print capabilities..
  15. If I recall, all my ModelExpo orders have come by USPS Priority mail. It looks like an 8oz package from Miami to Rhode Island is $8.45 When you figure shipping materials and time spent, $9.95 doesn't seem to be out of line. It sounds like John is being a real nice guy if he's giving you shipping credit..
  16. The interpretation appears to be logical in some respects, like the braces and vang. The topmast doesn't look right. But there are others who know far more than me.
  17. Here are the Chapman Drawings The description is Pleasure boat or Yacht. No mention of Dutch, so that was my mistake.
  18. The plans are based on a Chapman drawing of a dutch pleasure yacht.. I'll post a picture later.. Something to be aware of in that new Dusek version of the kit. The base for the cabin roof is too small. You will need to make a new one based on the plans..
  19. You seem to be familiar with spilling.. You might try this: Take a piece of masking tape and lay it lengthwise on a plank that is on the ship, preferably one that butts up against the stem. Trace the outline of the plank onto the tape. Lay the tape out flat, and you should see how the plank is bent.
  20. They are having a sale right now. Great discounts on some kits, and free domestic shipping for a $75 order.. $49 flat rate for international orders.. I have to resist.. Too many kits on the shelf..
  21. My thought would be to make one piece, then cut and shape after it is in place. More friendly than using two small pieces.
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