Thukydides

Great job, you are doing very well not just for a first time builder.

3 hours ago, brunnels said:

is the technique to just brush these ropes with diluted PVA glue and then hang some weight on them while they dry?

Are you using polyester or natural rope? For natural fibres pva works really well, but it is less good on polyester. It depends on the rope, but you may want to try a few test versions to see how it holds before attempting it on the model if you have polyester rope. I find matt varnish or diluted fabric glue work better for polyester.

3 minutes ago, dafi said:

Yepp, it is Lees where I found it first, themn being confimed by the find at Steel. By this resaerch it became quite obvious that Lees uses quite a lot of Steels informations, sometimes word by word. (This is not a moan 🙂 ). These details can be found in Part III "Progressive Method of Rigging Ships" in the article of "Rigging the the Lower-Yards" in the passage about Fore- and- Main-Braces, Preventer-Braces and Slings.

 

Also most of these details are repeated in the "Tables of the Dimensions of ..."

 

XXXDAn

I often wish that authors like Lees etc were a bit more explicit about where they get their sources from when they make these sort of statements. It would make it much easier to parse how reliable the statements are if he regularly said "based on Steel" or "based on models viewed", etc... More footnotes equals more good :).

Welcome to MSW

16 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

The anchors look great Daniel. 👍

I'm pretty picky about fittings but white metal anchors were one of those items I was  fairly relaxed about. There were sufficient after-market versions to suit all sizes - from kedge to Best bower, if a full set was required.

 

B.E.

Thanks BE, yes I did consider going with an aftermarket version, but I thought if I was going to replace them I might as well just draw up scratch ones in cad as then I could get the scale perfect instead pretty much right (I know a bunch of people with 3d printers).

In the end I thought this solution was good enough for the current build.

@jpalmer1970glad to know I wasn't the only one who had trouble getting the paint to stick. I am going to handle them very carefully from this point on.

You can also find Steel's 1794 book online and transcribed here https://maritime.org/doc/steel/

Log #85: The Anchors

Thank you to everyone for you kind comments and encouragement. I have spent the past couple weeks making a brief detour from the rigging, but before getting to that I did clean up a few lines. First up were some blocks with hooks for the topgallant backstay tackle and the topgallant yard halyard tackle.

I am getting much better at these now I have my process down and can produce them pretty quickly at this point. These ones only took about 15 minutes to make all in.

I then secured the topgallant yard halyard using one of these hook blocks and another block attached to the halyard itself. I belayed the falls to the bits and then ran the coil over the nearest cleate.

With that out of the way I decided to take a break from rigging and look at the anchors.

As I have one of the earlier versions of the alert kit, mine came with the cast metal anchors and I can see why Chris has moved away from these. They are easily one of the weakest parts of the kit. I debated for a while as to whether I should just chuck them and draft and 3d print some new ones, but in the end I decided to try and work with them. As I have previously noted my goal with this build has been to stay pretty close to the kit and I though with a bit of work I could make them look ok.

The main problem as you can see from the right hand anchor in the above picture is that they lack detail and the molding process has resulted in some flash and warping. I decided to try and file them down to remove the excess material and make them look closer to how they appear in the illustrations in Steel.

I also decided not to use the PE ring from the kit and instead made one out of paper clips which I wrapped around a drill bit to shape them. I then added the puddening to them with 0.35mm brown rope and seized them with 0.2mm beige rope. The seizing rope was a bit too big, but my only other option is the white fly tying thread I have and I thought the contrast would not look right.

You can see in the above image one of the biggest problems I struggled with, getting the primer to stick to the anchors. Despite washing and filing most of the surface off of them, I could not get the primer to hold well.

Then I was on to the anchor stock. The kit version did not look enough like the real thing so I scratch built some new ones out of the offcuts of the 3mm laser cut sheet.

I used the drawing in Goodwin as a template which I photocopied and resized (with some trial and error) and cut them all to the rough shape before carefully planing and sanding them to the correct size. Then I got to test out my recent acquisition of a mini drill press to drill the bolt holes.

With the holes drilled I used black monofilament fishing line to represent the bolts. I put these through before glueing the stock to the anchors to make sure I could get them through properly. Once everything was in place I just used a sharp craft knife to cut off the ends.

I then added iron straps using shrink tube and painted the straps and the anchors. I will not go into detail on the painting as I have previously described all these techniques when I did the straps on the boom jaws and when I painted the cannons.

Here is the final results. In the end I am pretty pleased with how they turned out and they look reasonably like the real thing.

Looking very nice. The rigging is my favorite stage (apart from the ratlines) for this reason. You start to see the ship come to life. Every block and line you add makes a difference.

Model shipways also has some new blocks which are made from pear and look quite similar to the ones that Vanguard used to supply. Not as good as the Syren blocks, but they do have the smaller sizes you are looking for.

The model is looking good Chris.

Your rope work is an inspiration Johann.

It is not hard to cut the lengths. All you need is a craft knife. and to measure carefully. If you go slowly and carefully you shouldn’t have any problems. As a first time builder I can say I ran into many much harder problems than cutting scale length planks :).

I would recommend you plan out the planking pattern and maybe even draw it on the false deck to assist.

You could also try a middle road and wait till after the lower shrouds and ratlines are on. They are are the main reason why you would want unimpeded access to the area. Also they are pretty strong so if you bang them a bit there is not as much risk you will cause damage unlike single lines that are going everywhere later in the build. Though I would fit the PE associated with them before doing the shrouds.

Just another option

I like the modifications you are making, they do add some visual interest to the ship.

That is a fantastic display. The root ball really adds to the overall look.

1 hour ago, dunnock said:

I began to wonder if it would be possible to add a little bit to the lower deck – maybe the Captain’s cabin.

You could definitely do this. There is a cheerful log somewhere (I can't remember which one now, I think the name started with a j) where they did this which might give you ideas.

It would be a nice way to make your model a little unique. Back when I was thinking about doing speedy as my second build I did have some thoughts on doing something like this.

Welcome to the forums. That is a nice looking model you have there.

Great job, the flag looks really nice. You should be proud of her.

She looks fantastic BE. Another great build.

9 minutes ago, AON said:

I am assuming there was some heat involved in forming the plastic tube (pressing out the sides). Is that correct. 

No actually there wasn't it is fairly soft and I just pushed it down and it held its shape. It is not particularly strong and I had to use some super glue to hold it in place in the eye splice. As I mentioned I am not sure I would recommend the method. If I was going to do it again I would probably use a harder plastic and heat or just go with brass.

I should also say that the pictures are not of the actual thimbles I made as they were too small to really get on camera. So I cut an example thicker slice just to document the process.

Log #84: The Topgallant Yard

I continue to slowly pick away at the mainmast. Things are getting really delicate now as there is so much to catch an errant hand on.

I have pretty much run out of 0.25mm rope and so had to order some more. As I need this for the topsail bowlines I have two wait before I can finish up the topsail yard. In the meantime I continued to work my way up and next up were the pendant for the topgallant sheets.

I had originally planned to use one of the kit provided thimbles, but when I put it on the model it looked completely out of scale so I decided to improvise. First I took a plastic tube I had on hand (I believe it came from a water balloon) and cut off a small piece.

Then I used a sculpting tool to press out the sides to make a thimble.

I then held these on a pin and painted them black. I cut a piece out of each to make them smaller and open on one end so they bended like a teardrop. Then I sized around them.

This was quite a fiddly process and in the end I probably should have just looked harder from some metal I could do this with, but in the end I got them to look ok. Here they are on the model.

Next up was the topgallant yard. This was straight forward with an eye splice that I served over to hold the yard. I used 0.25mm rope based on the steel table.

The line runs through a sheave in the topgallant mast  and down to the base of the mainmast. Here there was a bit of a canundrom. The kit calls for it to be attached to a 4mm double block which then is paired with a 3mm single with a hook attached to the deck (note this double plus single arrangement is also what Peterson describes). However this doesn’t make a lot of sense to me as all the other yards only have two single blocks and they are much bigger and heavier than the topgallant. Furthermore the 0.25mm line looks tiny on the 4mm block. If I had a 3mm double I probably would have used it but in the end I decided to just use two 3mm single blocks. This is also consistent with the Steel table as it only seems to list single blocks for the topgallant halliard.

You can see below the upper of these two blocks. As I ran out of 0.25mm rope I can’t finish the tying off of this line until I get the extra I ordered in the mail.

And here is the model in her current state. I am getting close to the end now. Just a few more lines to tie off on the mainmast and then I will be on to the bowsprit.

1 hour ago, BrochBoating said:

Hurrah it’s Rat Line time. My favourite. 
 

Trying a different route this time. Printed lined paper and suitable scrap plank (6mm). Clamp the planks across the shrouds to keep them properly spaced then tie and brush with dilute PVA. 

Much quicker and seems neater so far. 

 

 

Maybe better to hold off on the glue till all of them are tied. That way if you need to go back and fix one it is easier.

You are making good progress. Ratlines are also not my favourite part of the build.

2 hours ago, wvdhee said:

 

File the edges, paint them black and they look perfect imho.

This is true of a lot of the PE. You can make it look significantly better by filing them or in some cases glueing two pieces together to make them thicker.

What size were the carronades on the niagra? If you look at the topic linked below I posted the size of the blocks and rope and the number of them as of 1798 for the British. Now this is a little earlier than your time period, but by that 1790s it seems the mounting systems for carronades has begun to solidify so it is likely still applicable. That being said as @allanyed notes American practice may have been different.

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36354-gun-positions-and-their-associated-tackle/?do=findComment&comment=1042700

48 minutes ago, Richard Braithwaite said:

The text on the photos above was created in photoshop, which is the progam I use for general photo processing. There are lots of lower cost alternatives available however. Ive even found Powerpoint as quite an effective solution, particularly for lower resolution images where you can simply take a screenshot of the annotated "slide".

GIMP is free if anyone is looking for a Photoshop alternative. And it does most of what Photoshop does.

I only just stumbled across this build. I see you are following your usual practice for insane detail at a tiny scale. It is looking great.