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NavyShooter

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Posts posted by NavyShooter

  1. Very nice design.  I wish to see more details of your reloading bench though...I have a modular design for mine, with a metal bench, and a wooden work surface (no sparky!) and I have my presses setup on 3/4" ply bases that have a standard bolt pattern so I can swap my Dillon 550 and my RCBS out whenever I need to go from speed of production to precision of production.

     

    🙂

     

    I know you've mentioned HVAC, but I'll highly suggest adding a spot for a dehumidifier as well.  Humidity is a killer - both for wooden models (if that's your preference) but also for powders.

     

    When building your powder storage box, I recommend a fully wood construction, with brass fittings (again, no sparky!) 

     

    (Said by the guy who used to instruct the reloading course at the local club)

     

    NS

  2. In case anyone is interested, here is the 81 page instruction manual that is included with the download files.  

     

    So far, I've been assembling things without looking at it...I am now at the point where I probably *should* read the instructions.

     

     

    uploads_files_2715711_3D_Printed_1.48_Scale_Castle_Class_Corvette_Instructions.pdf

  3. And, you can see from the previous photo, and this one, that I've started on the ballasting.  

     

    Some lead shot, some additional strength from some fiberglass sheeting and a bit of resin to hold it all together.  

     

    Intent is to add more weight in the form of additional metal bars (I'm almost out of lead shot!) and hold them in place with resin as well.

     

    343465298_790663495912496_7457105858985241036_n.jpg

  4. I really like the black and white image of the impact zone on your display.  That's a neat touch.


    I came across a website that had some of the original B&W overlaid with modern Google-maps satellite imagery, showing the areas where the craters were in modern times.  That was a really neat overlay. 


    Well done on the models as well, they're spectactular!
     

  5. Rumble I heard was that they were painting the hull, and so my thought is that maybe they had some of the shoring had been removed to paint a section, then they put it back in place incorrectly?  The Shores are supposed to be lined up correctly with the hull frames to give the right support.  If they'd removed some shores, and put them back slightly offset from the actual frame, then it would be pressing on the hull plate rather than the frame, which has some give to it, and in high winds (25 knot winds were forecast that day?), could have compressed/loosened the shores, and if one or two fell due to improper placement, then it would likely lead to a domino effect.

     

     

  6. I found some epoxy spray paint over the weekend, and used that on the interior and some of the upper deck structures to help make them waterproof.

     

    Then I joined the forward and after portions of the hull together.

     

    Here's some update pictures of the project - the main upper decks received another layer of gel-coat as well last night.   Both the hull and the decks need at least one more coat I think.  Then I can move on to primer again!

     

    20230410_161327_resized.jpg

    20230410_161330_resized.jpg

    20230410_161334_resized.jpg

    20230410_161342_resized.jpg

    20230410_161350_resized.jpg

    20230410_205652_resized.jpg

  7. I really don't know what you mean?

    Also, WRT any inaccuracies in the hull, well, I've printed the hull as I got it from the gentleman that created the 3D model - Bens Worx.  I'm not able to edit the hull or modify it in any way - so it is what it is.

     

    I'm 2 layers deep on the gel coat now, and things are fairly smooth.  I think one more layer after I join the two hull halves should do me fine.

     

    NS
     

  8. I've taken on the task of getting a Titanic built as well...I'm certain that it will be no-where near what yours is!

     

    I'm working with 3D prints, so there's some aspects to that which are challenging, but workable for what I'm building.

     

    Intent is that it will be a slightly better than stand-off scale model that will end up in the local pond - I'm about 20% done the printing so far.  Ish.

     

    I have about another 3-4 weeks of printing left to go.

     

    NS
     

  9. OK, a bit more hardener, an extra layer on the bow, and a layer on the stern (no primer on it first this time...I decided to see how it'd look without.

     

    35 drops of hardener in this batch of gelcoat instead of 20 - things were getting tacky by the time I finished painting the coat on!

    336653705_2572999589518264_472985508787172383_n.jpg

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