dvm27

Captain Sir C. Passaro's figure is more anatomically correct than that skinny stick figure you substituted. No wonder he gave it a thumbs up. Love the way your treatment of the cabin makes your model unique.

Nice job Siggi. I find those drift rails incredibly hard to fit at the hances. Are they steamed or cut to shape?

I hope your muse returns soon. I understand how such a long project can create burnout. Sometimes I find that creating an interesting fitting that I won't need until later on gets the creative juices flowing again.

I know nothing of CAD but I do appreciate the jig/upside down Harold Hahn style method of framing the hull Kiyoo. Fairing those hawse timbers and fore cants is so much easier within this rigid baseboard. I look forward to seeing how the aft timbers come together!

18 hours ago, michael mott said:

I might make some cleaner ones tomorrow

Yes, by all means remake these hideous trial versions Michael. They'll look exactly the same to the rest of us but you'll feel better!

Curse you Oliver! I'm already spending too much time on YouTube and now I've had to add you to the list. My favorite La Belle model used to be Glen Grieco's version done at Texas A&M but your model is giving it a run for its money.

These are magnificent examples of mixed media use in ship model building, Doris. Do they not have dust in your country? I wonder how you keep these masterpieces in pristine condition without being encased.

Whatever will you do next? I hope you will share it here. We talked once of your publishing a book based on your techniques. Did that ever come to fruition?

Very sorry for your loss. I always found my workshop a place of solace during times of grief. Hopefully it will for you as well.

I can see your work improving as you progress, Kevin. Great job on the bowsprit step.

I too still use my Preac saw and it's great for small jobs. Don't know if you ever purchased the motor upgrade but it's fantastic and makes the saw even better. Check out http://shipahoymodels.com/equipmentforsale.htm

The framing plan is a rough indication of where things are located but use the sheer plan lofted by David Antscherl for actual locations and heights. All gun and sweep ports, as created by installing the sills, should run in a fair line from fore to aft. Maybe use a thin batten to insure they are all in a fair line.

This looks to be the method Dr. Mike uses for his models. I am happy to see a build log starting at the beginning for this technique.

As Druxey said buy an architects scale on eBay. Using full sized measurements, even if not ones you are familiar with, will eliminate a layer of potential error. After awhile you'll pick up this arcane system of measurement pretty quickly. Plus, when working with full sized numbers an alarm bell will go off in your head when your piece is way too small or large based on an errant calculation you made.

Non-pet owners sometimes have a hard time understanding how deeply we mourn when we lose a pet. Twenty years is a long life for a cat but that does not diminish the loss. Tyra was lucky to have such caring and compassionate owners and I know she lived a wonderful life.

Those head rails and scrollwork look terrific, Chuck. Can't wait to see them on your model

1 hour ago, Roger Pellett said:

That the guys that built these were able to create anything resembling a ship is amazing.  They worked in primitive conditions with hand tools, and inadequate lighting.  If their results look crude by today’s standards that understandable.

I have the pleasure of owning a copy of  Prisoner of War Ship Models by Manfred Stein, While some of them are a bit crude in their appearance others are exquisite works of art. Like Navy Dockyard models many of them were built by committee and by some of the finest craftsmen of their day.

Add me to the group Chuck. 

Greg

Your setup in the second photo was very informative. Your use of a plywood scrap with a hole drilled acts as a steady rest for the mill and I shall use that in the future for sure!

You can turn your hull upside down and place it over a sheet of cardstock or thick paper. Trace the outside profile of the hull onto the paper with a pencil. Cut out the profile, place on the model to insure it matches then draw an offset line to the inside of the cap rail to the required thickness. Works well for me.

Just curious, Don, what scale model are you making? With the Byrnes drawplate I can draw bamboo down to a no. 79 drill bit hole but there is a lot of wastage and a lot depends on the quality of the bamboo. If you're working in 1/4"-1ft scale I should think nos. 70-76 should cover most of your trunnel needs.

Giampieroricci - I am sending you a PM.

The Fully Framed Model by David Antscherl (SeaWatch Books). I can't imagine building a  Swan class without having the book as a reference or the Swan 3D virtual build (www.admiraltymodels.com).

You are indeed correct that the apron is extremely difficult to make, Don! Took me several tries to get it right. As the width of the lower apron tapers from 18" to 10" over it's length your strategy might be difficult to employ but perhaps is doable. You would first need to make the lower apron to the correct dimension (12" tapering to 10" aft - chapter 1.19 in TFFM). Then you would need to add the 3" stepped line to either side and taper it to fay into the apron at the bottom. No matter how you do it check and double check that the steps line up on either side of the lower apron both horizontally and vertically. I found it much easier to do this with my Sherline mill but others have successfully done this with just a sharp chisel. Care, deliberation and patience is required here! Oh, and the stern deadwood stepping lines is no cakewalk either but should be easier after after completing the apron.

Have you started a build log?

Great video, Kevin. Wish I could attribute my building issues to termites but there's snow outside!

Couple of comments:

1. Using those pencil marks to fair the inside of the frames works as well as on the outside. Those concave surfaces are hard to fair, especially in the bow and stern.

2. Great fix on the transom knee error. Is the wing transom upper edge at the right height at the outer counter timber or did you need to raise that as well? It seemed to be flush with the lower transom knee in the video before repair.

3. The deck beams can be recessed in two ways. You could cut 1" mortises into the deck clamp to receive the beams or notch the ends of the beams 1" to fit over the clamps. I found the latter infinitely easier to do although you need to be carful that they are installed in the proper location after cutting the recess.

We've missed your updates, Michael. I'd almost forgotten how beautiful this model is. That wood grain would look gorgeous in a full sized yacht!

Another Brick in the Wall, Piotrik, Beautifully done! That's a rotary vice in your mill, correct?