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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. Kevin, are your referring to the moulded thickness (inside to outside)? If so, it is 5" at top timber line and increases to the heel. Assuming you are cutting the frames anywhere near the lines then the moulded thickness should be fine after fairing. I'd be happy to send you the PDF files via e-mail. Just send me your e-mail address to dvm27@comcast.net.
  2. Congratulations on your one year build anniversary, Kevin. The aft cants look great and were much easier than the fore cants for you. Experience counts here! I'm happy to see you finally got a copier instead of hand drawing each pattern. We now provide them as PDF files so you can print out as many as you need. Do you have these? There's a small but important step involved when setting a pair of cant frames. The heel of each cant frame may be 10" sided. If the step is 20" wide then both cants should fit on the step perfectly. However, remember that the heels are set at an angle thus the overall width of both raised cants will be slightly greater than double their width. The solution to this is to slightly bevel the inner heels so that their sided dimension does not exceed the step. David describes this in Volume I but I can't find the reference now. Considering he wrote this book as a virtual project (my model followed after the text) I think it's pretty extraordinary that he thought of every little detail like this.
  3. Here's a small update on Speedwell. Her main deck has been completely framed with beams, carlings, ledges hanging and lodging knees.That was rather routine but boring work which occupied me for a few months. As a change of pace I made most of the deck fittings but none are permanently affixed as yet. Currently, I am working on the capstan and have just finished the tapered barrel. Just a tip for you novices regarding gratings. Ideally they should have full courses all around (see photos). It is easier to cut your gratings to the the size that accomplishes this first. Then build your coamings around them. If the result is a gratings assembly that is a hair larger or smaller than the plan so be it.
  4. So how long does it take you to plank a wall. Is it one plank at a time, clamped with Tite Bond? Rapid fire planking with CA glue? There was an episode of This Old House recently where they CNC cut the stringers for a staircase in a factory off site. The contracter looked green with envy!
  5. Congratulations on creating a beautiful and informative model, Danny.
  6. I've used ebony for planking and am convinced it was spawned by the devil. But it does look very nice and finishes beautifully. The French have been planking with ebony for centuries. Just plan on sacrificing a blade or two and vacuum the area frequently as the dust ends up everywhere. Oh, and wear a mask, especially if using the thickness sander. You'll have to experiment if you want treenails to show. I made them from Swiss pear and they worked out well. If you have curved areas to plank, such as a bluff bow, you can laminate two pieces of ebony together over a form and it retains the curve nicely. This was Harold Hahn's technique and it worked very well for me.
  7. Does your software and laser cutting capacity enable you to offer it in other scales, such as 1/4"?
  8. Remember that old TV commercial with the Gorilla vs. American Tourister luggage? Substitute me for the gorilla and Byrnes products for the luggage. I'm Jim's worst nightmare but 12+ years later all of my Byrnes Model Machines are still running to spec. He even fixed a couple for no charge after I screwed them up. So buy Byrnes or buy often...that's my motto!
  9. Once again awestruck by your work, Glen. You should do this for a living...oh wait, you already do!
  10. Nice rescue of those forward cants, Kevin. I've learned to leave a bit more on the frames to allow for these discrepancies during fairing. Cumulative error is a constant problem in a model such as this and you are doing a great job of insuring that the dead flat frame actually ends up in its proper location.
  11. Lovely work GDM67. Are you leaving on the frame patterns when raising the frames (I believe I can see some traces between frames). Are they to be removed after fairing?
  12. The nuts and bolts, etc., may be purchased from Scale Hardware http://www.scalehardware.com/. It's a great resource.
  13. It takes a lot of confidence in your drafting and building skills to construct a deck off the model. Great update, Glen.
  14. By George...you've done it! That is quite a feat of engineering.
  15. Very beautiful work, Albert. Did you have any problems with warping when fabricating that long cabin wall partition?
  16. Every cloud has a silver lining Ben. Just add a couple of frames aft and you'll have a terrific cross-section including the pumps. Two steps forward, one step back - the mantra of the plank on framer!
  17. Damn, Ben, sorry to see this happen to you. This seem to be a common problem when placing fillers between the frames and creating a solid wall of timber. It looks like you should be able to break down the hull into three or four large sections where the major gaps appear. Assuming the keel is still to spec (do remeasure it!) perhaps you can reassemble the groups onto the keel with slightly larger fillers in the gaps. Good luck.
  18. That's a strangely beautiful model, Glen. It's complex, yet symmetrical and very pleasing to the eye. Your updates are the highlight of my week.
  19. David's work is exquisite and you're lucky to have an Antscherl original. Are you planning to build a ship behind it?
  20. Lovely oar Druxey. Quite a dilemma with regards to displaying the full set. I vote for bundling them up and laying them inside the hull. To me, the other two options obscure the fine lines of the hull. We should start an MSW poll ( to coincide with our current obsession with polls).
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