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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. By George...you've done it! That is quite a feat of engineering.
  2. Very beautiful work, Albert. Did you have any problems with warping when fabricating that long cabin wall partition?
  3. Every cloud has a silver lining Ben. Just add a couple of frames aft and you'll have a terrific cross-section including the pumps. Two steps forward, one step back - the mantra of the plank on framer!
  4. Damn, Ben, sorry to see this happen to you. This seem to be a common problem when placing fillers between the frames and creating a solid wall of timber. It looks like you should be able to break down the hull into three or four large sections where the major gaps appear. Assuming the keel is still to spec (do remeasure it!) perhaps you can reassemble the groups onto the keel with slightly larger fillers in the gaps. Good luck.
  5. That's a strangely beautiful model, Glen. It's complex, yet symmetrical and very pleasing to the eye. Your updates are the highlight of my week.
  6. David's work is exquisite and you're lucky to have an Antscherl original. Are you planning to build a ship behind it?
  7. Lovely oar Druxey. Quite a dilemma with regards to displaying the full set. I vote for bundling them up and laying them inside the hull. To me, the other two options obscure the fine lines of the hull. We should start an MSW poll ( to coincide with our current obsession with polls).
  8. Yes, Mike, we plan to include both plank on frame and plank on bulkhead plans for Speedwell. In addition, we are working on supplying the figurehead and carvings for this vessel as well as the three pounder cannons. Thanks for all the likes!
  9. I see that it has been awhile since my last Speedwell update. Here are some current photos. David Antscherl (of Greenwich barge fame) and I are currently working with SeaWatch books on a book featuring her construction in both plank on frame and plank on bulkhead versions. She's a sweet little vessel and will be fully rigged. At 1:48 scale she won't take up a lot of space in my study. The fore platform with the boatswain's cabin and sail room. There is a properly tagged and stowed sail on the lower sail rack but it is no longer visible. The well sitting beneath the main mast partner with it's two octagonal pump openings. there is a small cleanout door at the bottom of the well. I made a jig to shape the round-ups of the various deck elements. Basically, I have connected several properly shaped deck beams (laser cut by Chuck) with planks on the convex and concave surfaces. I then affixed 150 grit garnet paper with rubber cement. Adding the round-up is then a simple matter of moving the piece up and down the paper. i use a small plank to keep the pull straight. You know when you are done as the dust spreads entirely across the paper above and below and the bottom of your thumb is raw. The upper deck back to the aft platform has been framed. It is a fairly tedious job adding each new beam with it's lodging knees, hanging knees, carlings, ledges and bolts. Depending on the amount of deck planking one plans to add, some of these elements could be omitted. I plan on adding very little deck planking so most of it will be visible. In the final photo, the capstan upper and lower partners have been added. Speedwell's capstan is a bit curious as it is designed to be raised and lowered. It seats on a removable spindle cup on the lower partner. Neither David and I have any idea why it was designed this way. That's it for now. Next will be the framing of the aft platform and quarterdeck.
  10. Great video, Kevin. Well done on the challenging bollard cross-chock. Took me a couple of times too. I'm impressed by your ability to understand and fix discrepancies as they occur. As you have identified, it is very difficult to set a cant frame in three different planes. It is imperative that the aft part of the heel aligns vertically with the plan on the board. If not, you will get creeping error that will show up in an ugly way a few frames down the road. When setting cants or other frames I use a ply-90 degree jig to insure verticality and a steel machinists square to insure the half-breath location while the glue is setting. You can simulate the chock joints on the outside of the frame with an exacto knife if you like. I'd also strongly recommend PVA glue due to it's ability to be debonded. I used almost two bottles on my first POF model! Keep those videos coming. It's something I wished I had done while building my Swan prototype.
  11. The transom support piece is a very nice addition to the building board. Should make installing those pesky transom timbers a breeze.
  12. If there's dust in the photo it must be scale dust because I can't see it. Could you please share how you came to be a professional ship model maker with TAMU? Did you make model airplanes and ships as a kid? How'd you get to be so damned good? Enquiring minds want to know!
  13. You are one talented SOB to turn that boxwood ring into the mast coat you've shown..without a lathe. My hat's off to you.
  14. Great start Tim. Stern deadwood looks spot on and the tabled boxing joint is seldom seen on models. Is your keel and rising wood milled from one piece? If so, I don't believe I've seen that approach before.
  15. Great work, Gary. I'be be conservative with fairing the fore face of the foremost aft cant and aft face of the last fore cant until the first full frames are test fitted. For some reason this transition has caused me problems on a couple of plank on frame models.
  16. Nice work, Frank. Who makes that razor saw? It appears to have teeth on each side.
  17. A beautiful model accompanied by beautiful photography. What more could we lurkers ask for? Looking forward to your next build.
  18. The sheer excellence of your woodwork and metal work makes this one of the most enjoyable logs on MSW. It looks like this could be a working model with the proper engine.
  19. I am enjoying your build Vitaly. It looks like you are using the methods developed by Dr. Mike and featured on his video. Is this correct?
  20. Now she looks like a ship, Mike. The next huge reveal when you cut the frame extensions and free her from the jig but wait as long as possible to do this. Have fun with that internal fairing. I foresee some bloody knuckles!
  21. Don't feel guilty, Glen. I have been using simulated nuts from Scale Hardware http://www.scalehardware.com/simulated-micro-hardware-c-47. You can't fake it any better than this.
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