dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Congratulations on the production of your first chocked full frame. I guarantee your production will speed up as you move on. I usually make them in pairs (each station). There is a small drawback in not installing bevelled chocks. During the fairing process you may sand into the chock of the narrower face (fore face on the fore frames and aft face on the aft frames). This could result in a wavy outside joint line instead of a parallel one. Probably would not be that noticeable as the wood tones down after time. I cut all the bevels for the chock on my Sherline mill. It's actually very easy to do. It is possible to do these with a chisel (David Antscherl certainly does) but I find it difficult to keep them consistent that way. -
This is like a great foreign film...without the subtitles!
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David's plans and practicum were derived from the Pegasus plans. As Toni points out, there are variations from ship to ship. If your Thorn plan is as built then this is the ultimate reference and I would follow it. Sometimes, the as built drawing has pencil notations that are difficult to read.
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When working on the port sills or toptimber lines it is very important to make sure that they are parallel athwartships. Always work on opposite sides as pairs, Mark off the correct height of the bottom of the sills with a height gage or template on each side. Use a long rigid sanding stick, the same width as the port opening, with 150 grit garnet paper affixed. It should be a couple inches wider than the ship. Apply differential pressure while sanding the frames athwartship untill you have reached the marks on the hull on each. You may now install the sills and be certain they are at the correct heights and parallel athwartship. Deck clamp installation - it is crucial that the deck clamps be installed at the proper height in relation to the lower sills or the cannon barrels will not sit in the center of the port opening. Once you have established a proper fair run of the lower sills you should use this as your reference point for the deck clamps. Make a template to transfer the distance from the top of the lower port sill to the bottom of the deck clamp. This measurement will be consistant across the hull. Your sill heights may vary a little from the framing plan due to human error but stick with the afore mentioned template. If done well, your deck/waterway/spirketting accumulated heights will fall exactly even with the top of the bottom sill. So, getting the correct sill positions and heights is crucial to the rest of the build. After installation, affix a batten across the tops of the lower sills. It should be a clean, fair run from one end to the other with no dips or rises. Add thin fillers to build them up or reduce with the athwartship sanding stick for minor adjustments.
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It's like deja vu...all over again. Tell you wife great work on those mattresses, just the right amount of grime. That must be a very small milling bit because those inside corners look almost square. Our members were going through withdrawal from their lack of weekly W.R.S.H. fix! Thans for the update.
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His frames are constructed above, below and around the faux-port lids. They are used as templates to help frame the hull. The real question is how will the plug be extracted from the framed hull later on (as seen in the early photos)? The mysterious Amalio will reveal all (hopefully) in his own time.
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Best of luck with your chemo treatments, Danny. I have a few Wells Fargo postal covers and it would be great to see some photos of your coach model in the Shore Leave section of this forum. I've seen some incredible coach models on other sites.
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Very nice videos, Kevin. The time-lapse feature is terrific. It's pretty humbling to realize, after the fact, that we have made a fundamental error (such as installing those frames in reverse) despite all the care we take.
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The reversed compass point was unknown to me also. It's so simple, yet improves accuracy significantly. Wish I'd known about it years ago!
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I've heard that there were so many orders for David's new book that it crashed the internet!
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Very nice videos Kevin. The frames get much easier as you gain experience. In fact I would usually make two or three stations at a time, assembly line fashion
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US Brig Syren by Gahm - Model Shipways
dvm27 replied to Gahm's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
I must be the last person on this forum to stumble onto your log but your model is outstanding! Your wood and metal skills are first rate and I very much enjoyed the hour I spent viewing your log. -
Lovely work, Nick. At some point, you'll need to widen the opening on the transom to accommodate the sweep of the rudder. This might have been easier before planking but I've no doubt you're up to the task.
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The char remains indicate low spots on the outer frames. If you plank over these you will have divots in your hull. Use flexible nail files (available at any drug store in various grits) applied over as many frames as you can at once. When the char is gone, the boat is faired.
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Lovely work, Gary. Closing in the hull is definitely a memorable milestone. With regards to fillers between the floor timbers, I've noted several separations on my Speedwell fully framed model. Obviously, filler frames made sense on the real ships to provide a solid wall of timber while immersed in water. But on a model, with expansion and contraction of wood due to changes in moisture and temperature, I suspect you'll have similar problems from time to time. Not a major issue, however, as this area is not readily visual once the deck beams, carlings, etc. are in place. Plus, once you get a few longitudinals in place (such as limber strakes) this occurs less. My workshop is in my basement which has a constant temperature and humidity. Most of my problems arose when I took the hull outside to fair or into a different room to photograph. If I were to build another fully framed model I would not remover her from the workshop until fully faired with deck clamps in place.
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Model Machines Disc Sander for sale
dvm27 replied to jimbyr's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Great job patching her up, Jim. For those who missed out on this gem, I fully anticipate my brand new Byrnes disk sander to be in equally rough shape after another decade of similar abuse. Stick around for another donation. -
Very nice, Chuck. Looks like you made good use of the grain pattern in your planning.
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Chuck, your work is impeccable as usual. Could you describe your painting technique and brand of paint? A flawless finish such as you achieve doesn't happen by slapping a coat of paint on bare wood.
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Echo by davec - FINISHED - cross-section
dvm27 replied to davec's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Looking excellent, David. Your meticulous work shows up quitenicely in the symmetry of those ventilation holes. That doesn't happen without careful planning. -
Just finished Video 14 Kevin. Great job on the counter timbers and framing of the quarter deck light. I'd spot glue a 5" wide plank across the aft cants to the outer counter timber at the toptimber line at this point. This will add strength to the area and may help prevent a stray elbow from knocking off the delicate timbers aft of the last cant. I've done this (as has Toni I believe) and it really ruins your day! Happy to see you've invested in the Veritas sharpening system. With regards to the mortises for the sills, try to keep them as shallow as possible, perhaps 2". They should be subtle. Typically, I make two total passes with the chisel to form each face, a shallow cut defining the angle and a final cut to the line. The deeper the cut, the more difficult it will be to fit the sills to them. Thanks for the acknowledgement to David and I for developing the practicum. We're happy you are enjoying building a model of this complexity and we are very appreciative of your video documentation. It took me almost a decade to build and photojournal my Swan class model. Doing these videos must add many hours to the project. I wish more MSW viewers would take the time to watch them because they are a really great resource.
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Wonderful work, as always Glenn. Couldn't help nosing around your workshop. What's the plank on frame model sitting behind Heroine? The wales date her to before 1750. Is she another version of La Belle?
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The best blackening agent I ever used was ferric chloride and ammonia, based on a technique described in Model Shipwright. It was a very nasty concoction, however, and extreme caution was used while preparing and using it. I have had mixed success with Jax products and also very good success with automotive spray paint primer and matte or flat black finishes. Ken - your formula is for cast brass but I assume it works for other brass as well?
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