dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Missed your updates, Glenn, The roof looks terrific! Is your live stream up and running http://nautarch.tamu.edu/model/ -
Alex and Remco back posting in the same week - I'm in heaven! Love the classical Navy Board approach to the forecastle planking, Alex.
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Swan-Class Sloop by garyb - 1:48
dvm27 replied to garyb's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Gary, I'd take Ben up on his generous offer. But, what I do is scan just the part of the Mylar plan I am working on (such as the knee of the head) on my small scanner as a pdf file. I open them in Adobe Photoshop Elements and they print perfectly to scale. Just make sure you choose the "print actual size" option in the printer dialog box. -
Charlie - check out this link for the cutter Alert built by a Japanese modeler as an example of a realistic diorama. It's quite extraordinary. Scroll down to the middle of the page: https://www.theropetokyo.org/%E5%B1%95%E7%A4%BA%E4%BC%9A%E4%BD%9C%E5%93%81%E9%9B%86/%E7%AC%AC32%E5%9B%9E%E5%B1%95-2007%E5%B9%B4/%E7%AC%AC32%E5%9B%9E%E5%B1%95-3-4/
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I don't use any finish on my holly decks and the wood may tone down a bit over the years but still looks like holly. I only apply "caulking" to one side of my planks as doing both makes it a bit too prominent to my eyes. Test out a gang of short planks side by side, one with ink applied to only one side and one with it applied to both sides. See which one pleases your eye the best.
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Looking forward to the next video and the installation of the final full frame. Quite a milestone!
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Hey, just because it's 80 degrees, the tequilas are non-stop and there's fine dining every evening doesn't absolve me of my mentoring duties while on vacation! Ben's shrinkage is of great concern to me.
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I have a section of crown molding in my bedroom that always develops a gap in the winter and disappears in the summer. Is your workshop humidity controlled? Is the humidity the same as where the model will be displayed? If the eventual display area has a higher humidity do you leave a small gap now to allow for cumulative swelling of the hull later on? When I examine the Rogers ship model collection it seems like most of the gaps (besides glue failure) appear along joints influenced by humidity changes over the years.
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Echo by davec - FINISHED - cross-section
dvm27 replied to davec's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
On a previous modeI I used pear treenails in ebony and they looked very nice with a very subtle, but discernible, color difference. -
Holy cow, Ken! I knew this would be an awesome build (I have your book) but you have exceeded all expectations. A question - are all the fittings temporarily secured? If not, how will you achieve the expert paint job I know you'll apply? Happy New Years and looking forward to many new postings from you. And don't forget the fire extinguisher from the real ships photo!
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Thanks for your lovely year end photos, Toni. Now that you've framed the quarterdeck how are those intricate details in the light room and magazine looking
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Also Ben, during the framing process, spend a lot of time on the transitions between the various rails and hances. They need to level and parallel athwartships. I was not as careful as I should be while framing and placing the rails and hances later on caused me no end of problems. Using a long sanding stick athwartships certainly helped.
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Echo by davec - FINISHED - cross-section
dvm27 replied to davec's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
That looks terrific, David! Ebony is fine for a cross section like this as there not too much of it nor are there any major bends to do. I used it on my Pegasus cross section and it really is a beautiful wood. Agree with you that the model is easiest planked while not mounted. Fits nicely in your lap during the process. You'll be delighted to plank her in only a day or so. Its one of the reasons I chose this section. Best wishes for the New Year! -
Great recovery,Ben. Druxeys suggestion of gluing the spacer to one face only makes a lot of sense. Or, just cut and fit them without glue See what sort of gaps develop over the coming months.
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Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
dvm27 replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Wonderful, Marsalv! Based on museum pieces I've seen she is exactly the style and look of contemporary figureheads. I wonder if it was a point of pride for opposing forces to blast the opposing ship's figurehead during battle? -
Lovely work, Chuck! Clove hitches are definitely the way to go, although you should point out to beginners that the ends are square knots (which you have also done extremely tidy on your model). Best wishes for a Happy New Year and look forward (hopefully) to seeing some progress on Winchelsia in 2017.
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Just checked my Hannah which was rigged over 15 years ago. I used a combination of CA and Liquitex Acrylic Matte Medium (as suggested by Harold Hahn). I can't tell which lines were secured with which and they are all in excellent shape. That said, I recall the CA did stiffen the line a bit more than I wanted and made it difficult to form a graceful droop. No such issue with the matte medium, which also allowed for some adjustment during its setting up.
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Wise move, Ben. I had the same issue when trying to drill my hawse hawse in v.1. At least you have them properly located now and finish by hand. I had little success doing them the way David recommends in the book (adding them to each hawse timber before gluing them in place). That requires a level of precision above my pay grade! Looking forward to next years continued progress.
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Another wonderful video, Kevin. Looks like adding those sill mortises after the frames are raised is working out for you. A very Happy and Healthy New Year to you and we are looking forward to next years videos.
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ancre Le Fleuron by juzek - 1:27
dvm27 replied to juzek's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Wonderful start. Looking forward to viewing this build. -
Well, I know one thing for sure. The metal work on this model will be outstanding!
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Nice recovery, Kevin. I suppose you were blessed/cursed with having the Thorn framing plan. Goes to show you that even thought the Swan vessels were a class within themselves with designated Admiralty specs, their builders still took liberties with regards to their actual construction (most likely based on their own apprenticeship). I'm pretty sure I recall David writing somewhere in TFFM that, in case of discrepencies, the plan for your individual vessel should be the ultimate source. With regard to creeping error you can always cheat an inch or two off either side as you approach the dead flat. You might want to construct the dead flat three-frame-assembly now and temporarily place it to help you figure out how the other frames will fill in. I found this very helpful. Your assistant Ollie is darned cute!
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