dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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It's like deja vu...all over again. Tell you wife great work on those mattresses, just the right amount of grime. That must be a very small milling bit because those inside corners look almost square. Our members were going through withdrawal from their lack of weekly W.R.S.H. fix! Thans for the update. -
His frames are constructed above, below and around the faux-port lids. They are used as templates to help frame the hull. The real question is how will the plug be extracted from the framed hull later on (as seen in the early photos)? The mysterious Amalio will reveal all (hopefully) in his own time.
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Best of luck with your chemo treatments, Danny. I have a few Wells Fargo postal covers and it would be great to see some photos of your coach model in the Shore Leave section of this forum. I've seen some incredible coach models on other sites.
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Very nice videos, Kevin. The time-lapse feature is terrific. It's pretty humbling to realize, after the fact, that we have made a fundamental error (such as installing those frames in reverse) despite all the care we take.
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The reversed compass point was unknown to me also. It's so simple, yet improves accuracy significantly. Wish I'd known about it years ago!
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- dunbrody
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I've heard that there were so many orders for David's new book that it crashed the internet!
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- greenwich hospital
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Very nice videos Kevin. The frames get much easier as you gain experience. In fact I would usually make two or three stations at a time, assembly line fashion
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US Brig Syren by Gahm - Model Shipways
dvm27 replied to Gahm's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
I must be the last person on this forum to stumble onto your log but your model is outstanding! Your wood and metal skills are first rate and I very much enjoyed the hour I spent viewing your log. -
Lovely work, Nick. At some point, you'll need to widen the opening on the transom to accommodate the sweep of the rudder. This might have been easier before planking but I've no doubt you're up to the task.
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The char remains indicate low spots on the outer frames. If you plank over these you will have divots in your hull. Use flexible nail files (available at any drug store in various grits) applied over as many frames as you can at once. When the char is gone, the boat is faired.
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Lovely work, Gary. Closing in the hull is definitely a memorable milestone. With regards to fillers between the floor timbers, I've noted several separations on my Speedwell fully framed model. Obviously, filler frames made sense on the real ships to provide a solid wall of timber while immersed in water. But on a model, with expansion and contraction of wood due to changes in moisture and temperature, I suspect you'll have similar problems from time to time. Not a major issue, however, as this area is not readily visual once the deck beams, carlings, etc. are in place. Plus, once you get a few longitudinals in place (such as limber strakes) this occurs less. My workshop is in my basement which has a constant temperature and humidity. Most of my problems arose when I took the hull outside to fair or into a different room to photograph. If I were to build another fully framed model I would not remover her from the workshop until fully faired with deck clamps in place.
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Model Machines Disc Sander for sale
dvm27 replied to jimbyr's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Great job patching her up, Jim. For those who missed out on this gem, I fully anticipate my brand new Byrnes disk sander to be in equally rough shape after another decade of similar abuse. Stick around for another donation. -
Very nice, Chuck. Looks like you made good use of the grain pattern in your planning.
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- Queen Anne Barge
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Chuck, your work is impeccable as usual. Could you describe your painting technique and brand of paint? A flawless finish such as you achieve doesn't happen by slapping a coat of paint on bare wood.
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Echo by davec - FINISHED - cross-section
dvm27 replied to davec's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Looking excellent, David. Your meticulous work shows up quitenicely in the symmetry of those ventilation holes. That doesn't happen without careful planning. -
Just finished Video 14 Kevin. Great job on the counter timbers and framing of the quarter deck light. I'd spot glue a 5" wide plank across the aft cants to the outer counter timber at the toptimber line at this point. This will add strength to the area and may help prevent a stray elbow from knocking off the delicate timbers aft of the last cant. I've done this (as has Toni I believe) and it really ruins your day! Happy to see you've invested in the Veritas sharpening system. With regards to the mortises for the sills, try to keep them as shallow as possible, perhaps 2". They should be subtle. Typically, I make two total passes with the chisel to form each face, a shallow cut defining the angle and a final cut to the line. The deeper the cut, the more difficult it will be to fit the sills to them. Thanks for the acknowledgement to David and I for developing the practicum. We're happy you are enjoying building a model of this complexity and we are very appreciative of your video documentation. It took me almost a decade to build and photojournal my Swan class model. Doing these videos must add many hours to the project. I wish more MSW viewers would take the time to watch them because they are a really great resource.
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Wonderful work, as always Glenn. Couldn't help nosing around your workshop. What's the plank on frame model sitting behind Heroine? The wales date her to before 1750. Is she another version of La Belle?
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The best blackening agent I ever used was ferric chloride and ammonia, based on a technique described in Model Shipwright. It was a very nasty concoction, however, and extreme caution was used while preparing and using it. I have had mixed success with Jax products and also very good success with automotive spray paint primer and matte or flat black finishes. Ken - your formula is for cast brass but I assume it works for other brass as well?
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Toni, I am looking forward to rigging her. The only other ship I've rigged is Hannah. As a ketch rigged sloop, she's a relatively simple model to rig. I'm attaching a photo of the Speedwell model David and I have based our model on. I find her to be a simple, yet elegant ship. Photo courtesy of the National Maritime Museum.
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Lovely work, Gary. I started with some lighter colored chocks in Speedwell but after a couple years the wood tones are almost identical. Understand completely the potential issues with chocks in frames with extreme bevels.
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Tom, a rigged Speedwell is the perfect size for the last remaining space in my study. The shifted and cast toptimbers were definitely a challenge, even at 1:48 scale. She would be a very manageable model at a larger scale though. I prefer to build my armada to the same 1:48 scale in case a war breaks out in my study when I'm not home. That way the larger scale ship will not have a tactical advantage.
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Interesting that most of the RC models I've seen have carved figures and it's clear in the paintings that there are many carved elements. But what about the friezes? Are they bas relief with painted background or are they painted?
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