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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Looking great Ben. You'll have her closed in in no time.
  2. dvm27
    Good stuff, Ken! That figure looks like he'd be more at ease on a yacht, holding a martini. What's next for you...back to autos?
  3. dvm27
    Small accident? Looks like you dropped a cannon ball on it. What's the Polish word for &*%!!#? Great fix!
  4. dvm27
    The coamings look nice, Charlie. But consider that the grating illustrations may not quite match the final construction for any number of reasons. Forcing them to fit your already built coamings may require some shaving of the gratings that will result in half holes. I find it best to construct the gratings first, with symmetrical borders on all sides, then build the hatch coamings and head ledges around them. The final assembly may vary from the prototype by an inch or two but will look better. I believe Dan has published a nice article on this site (or in the NRG book) regarding this technique.
  5. dvm27
    Your review prompted me to order a copy, Ed. I've never built Victory but love his book on the subject. They're actually readily available and inexpensive on ABE. Numerous printings and choices available.
  6. dvm27
    Perfectly executed model, Ken! Especially love the textured decks.
  7. dvm27
    Just curious. Longridge also built a model (and published a book) of the Cutty Sark. I would assume it is magnificent. Any photos of it around?
  8. dvm27
    That is good news for Constitution builders but hopefully they'll also carry the smaller rivets down to the 0.4 mm size that Scale Hardware carried (along with the rest of their product line).
  9. dvm27
    Well thought out and executed, Dave! Wish I had done that!
  10. dvm27
    Congratulations, Kenny, on reaching this milestone. You've done a fantastic job! I hope you won;t be disappointed to know I had to abandon my first effort after a year due to cumulative and rookie errors and even David's first POF model (although it looked pretty damned good to me) had some significant errors. Look forward to your continuing video series.
  11. dvm27
    Nice wales, Dave. I also used the clear dope, but diluted, and the wood looks like the day it was applied. Smells great when applying also!
  12. dvm27
    Missed your updates, Glenn, The roof looks terrific! Is your live stream up and running http://nautarch.tamu.edu/model/
  13. dvm27
    Alex and Remco back posting in the same week - I'm in heaven! Love the classical Navy Board approach to the forecastle planking, Alex.
  14. dvm27
    Gary, I'd take Ben up on his generous offer. But, what I do is scan just the part of the Mylar plan I am working on (such as the knee of the head) on my small scanner as a pdf file. I open them in Adobe Photoshop Elements and they print perfectly to scale. Just make sure you choose the "print actual size" option in the printer dialog box.
  15. dvm27
    Charlie - check out this link for the cutter Alert built by a Japanese modeler as an example of a realistic diorama. It's quite extraordinary. Scroll down to the middle of the page: https://www.theropetokyo.org/%E5%B1%95%E7%A4%BA%E4%BC%9A%E4%BD%9C%E5%93%81%E9%9B%86/%E7%AC%AC32%E5%9B%9E%E5%B1%95-2007%E5%B9%B4/%E7%AC%AC32%E5%9B%9E%E5%B1%95-3-4/
  16. dvm27
    I don't use any finish on my holly decks and the wood may tone down a bit over the years but still looks like holly. I only apply "caulking" to one side of my planks as doing both makes it a bit too prominent to my eyes. Test out a gang of short planks side by side, one with ink applied to only one side and one with it applied to both sides. See which one pleases your eye the best.
  17. dvm27
    Looking forward to the next video and the installation of the final full frame. Quite a milestone!
  18. dvm27
    A Master Class in metal work, Ken!
  19. dvm27
    Hey, just because it's 80 degrees, the tequilas are non-stop and there's fine dining every evening doesn't absolve me of my mentoring duties while on vacation! Ben's shrinkage is of great concern to me.
  20. dvm27
    I have a section of crown molding in my bedroom that always develops a gap in the winter and disappears in the summer. Is your workshop humidity controlled? Is the humidity the same as where the model will be displayed? If the eventual display area has a higher humidity do you leave a small gap now to allow for cumulative swelling of the hull later on? When I examine the Rogers ship model collection it seems like most of the gaps (besides glue failure) appear along joints influenced by humidity changes over the years.
  21. dvm27
    On a previous modeI I used pear treenails in ebony and they looked very nice with a very subtle, but discernible, color difference.
  22. dvm27
    Look forward to your new postings Remco!
  23. dvm27
    Holy cow, Ken! I knew this would be an awesome build (I have your book) but you have exceeded all expectations. A question - are all the fittings temporarily secured? If not, how will you achieve the expert paint job I know you'll apply? Happy New Years and looking forward to many new postings from you. And don't forget the fire extinguisher from the real ships photo!
  24. dvm27
    Thanks for your lovely year end photos, Toni. Now that you've framed the quarterdeck how are those intricate details in the light room and magazine looking
  25. dvm27
    Also Ben, during the framing process, spend a lot of time on the transitions between the various rails and hances. They need to level and parallel athwartships. I was not as careful as I should be while framing and placing the rails and hances later on caused me no end of problems. Using a long sanding stick athwartships certainly helped.

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