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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Having a solid wall of timber is probably not the best idea, as I found out on my Speedwell model, Mike. There are gaps between the fillers in the winter. I have filled them with sawdust and glue and they have appeared elsewhere. They'll probably disappear as the humidity rises, as you perdict. I am reminded of the problem Franklin had when building his beautiful model Egmont (which was purchased by the NMM). He noted that his hull shrank almost 1/4" after framing as the humidity decreased. He applied a wet towel overnight and the length of the hull was the full 1/4" longer the following day. He then applied the wales and the problem was solved. if there's one thing I learned after watching This Old House for 30+ years is that wood is a living material that expands and contracts. One must always compensate for this (although I'm not quite sure how this could be done with a full set of filler frames unless the model was kept in an environment with consistant humidity forever).
  2. dvm27
    Eye candy, Remco. The hammock battens make your model unique, I think.
  3. dvm27
    According to Goodwin, The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War 1650 - 1850, "The most common (scarph) was the butt and coak method and like all the methods used the scarph was set in the vertical". This corresponds to David White's excellent series of articles in Model Shipwright. Perhaps the vertical scarph joint presents less exposed area for water to seep into and promote rot within the keel.
  4. dvm27
    Sweet work Danny. Those inlets fit the recesses perfectly. Are you going to leave part of the pump well unplanked so people can see details like these?
  5. dvm27
    When using paper to simulate caulking between joints I make numerous pricks throught the paper everywhere but at the edges before gluing. Perhaps this allows better glue adhesion. In addition I use bamboo treenails glued, or brass wire epoxied, to reinforce the joint. As yet, I have had no papered joint faliures. The most perfect joints result from using slightly oversized scantlings and reducing them too finished dimensions on the Byrnes thickness sander.
  6. dvm27
    I've used both pigmented glue and black kraft paper to good effect. Do one further test before you proceed. Liberally apply isopropyl alcohol to a test joint to see if the stain runs during the debonding process. I've had some adjacent pigment bleed during the process. Or, never make a mistake and this won't be an issue.
  7. dvm27
    Great looking model, Daniel! I also checked out your website and there are some amazing models there!
  8. dvm27
    Looks terrific, Dave. I fit out just one-half of mine and it makes for a very nice display.
  9. dvm27
    Looking great, Gary. You 're obviously very comfortable working with wood. The scarph joint between your upper and lower apron appears to be S-shaped on your mock-up. I believe the actual scarph joint consists of three flat surfaces, much like the upper apron, but much shorter.
  10. dvm27
    Brilliant!
  11. dvm27
    Wonderful work, Karl. What sort of jig do you use to transfer the heights for the platform beams inside the hull? Happy Holidays to you also and we all look forward to 2016 updates fro you!
  12. dvm27
    Holy crap you're good! What secret blackening recipe do you use? It's a source of never-ending frustration for most of us mere mortals.
  13. dvm27
    Fantastic, Nils! Can you sneak one of those little guys into the hold so people can see how cramped it really was?
  14. dvm27
    The planksheer rails, associated moldings and volutes are the icing on the cake and, to me, one of the more difficult projects on the ship. Among violin makers the shape and precision of the carved volute are big factors in their value.
  15. dvm27
    Very nice Mike. Fittingly, you've moved over to the Dark Side - power tools (Star Wars being released this week in case you've been living in a convent). Enjoy your lathe/mill and all the fun things you can do with them. Hopefully you'll get over the "making beautiful wooden pen and pencil sets" phase for relatives and neighbors quickly.
  16. dvm27
    Happy belated Birthday Wishes Remco. May you age as slowly as your progress on Kingfisher!
  17. dvm27
    That's a beautiful hull Mike, even in her rough form. Can't wait to see her filled and sanded and ready for prime time. .
  18. dvm27
    You should donate her to MSW to auction off. You get a million dollar tax deduction, MSW gets a boatload of money selling her and the buyer gets to spend the rest of his/her life rigging her. A win-win-win situation all around!
  19. dvm27
    I'd never really paid much attention to the Adelaide model when visiting the collection. I can understand how those old timers espoused form over function as the round stern is not aesthetically pleasing compared to those of the prior century. But it is an exceptionally well crafted model and I look forward to spending more time studying her on my next visit to the Academy.
  20. dvm27
    Great job, Toni. I don't believe there's a more difficult job then framing the stern and getting all the curves right (except for the head timbers and rails...and carving...and louvered windows...and...)
  21. dvm27
    Beautiful job on planking and painting your hull, Mike. Looks perfect.
  22. dvm27
    "Wasn't so easy as it looks"? That's an understatement as it looks bloody difficult Siggi. Lovely job!
  23. dvm27
    Nice job Maury. i think the fenders are one of those items that would be easier and cleaner to install before planking but that requires planning way above my pay grade!
  24. dvm27
    Coolest build ever, Siggi. What's next in the dockyard - the fore part of the ship?
  25. dvm27
    This block making machine was discussed at Western ship model conference several years ago. It was indeed a wonder.There was talk of a commercial version but I never heard anything more of it. Perhaps the AAMM has more information.

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