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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    enjoying your Swan cross-section. I think you'll enjoy the relatively simpler construction of the mid-ships area, starting with the V-shaped rabbet. And no spiling required later on during planking.
  2. dvm27
    Welcome back. Michael. We've missed your updates.
  3. dvm27
    Very happy to have found this log even as you have finished the model. Spectacular model and build photos, Nils!
  4. dvm27
    I sure hope everyone got to see those Jason! I've had a fascination for his clocks and watches ever since reading Longitute by David Sobel. A great read for anyone on this list. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/080271529X?keywords=longitude%20by%20David%20sobel&qid=1445883796&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
  5. dvm27
    Thanks for the photos Ryland. I immediatly recognized the beautiful model of Hannah, by William Wiseman, which won the Grand Award at the 1996 Mariner Museum Competition. I always wondered where it ended up. Was this one on display or relegated to a storage room? If the later - what a pity. Take a close look at those sails. They're made of wood.
  6. dvm27
    Really sorry I missed this one. Who will be the first to post photos?
  7. dvm27
    Beautiful work, Gaetan. Did you make a form tool for the reinforcing rings? Does your lathe have a digital readout for use when you are making repetitive cuts? Or are those wooden templates your hi-tech method for keeping all the cuts uniform?
  8. dvm27
    Beautiful planking job!
  9. dvm27
    Lovely planking job, Ed. Sort of hard to know where to stop on this demonstration model. I wonder if you were tempted to complete the planking on the port side? As difficult as planking the stern curved area on your model was I'm wondering what sort of Herculean effort this task might have taken on the real ship!
  10. dvm27
    Wonderful metal and wood work in this installment. What blackening agent did you use? The results are very uniform.
  11. dvm27
    Beautiful work, Rekon. Just out of curiousity, what was the use of those two aft cabins? With those large knees there's not much room inside.
  12. dvm27
    "Missed it by that much" - Maxwell Smart Or maybe you Aussies never received "Get Smart" from the classic age of US television.
  13. dvm27
    I use Fiebings leather dye. It does a beautiful job but you need to be careful when applying as it penetrates very well. I usually stain pieces like wales off the model and touch them up after securing them in place. Their brown dye is perfect for blocks. You may also achieve a very nice black color, especially on brass, using black automotive primer. Several light coats fill in small gaps and leaves a nice smooth finish.
  14. dvm27
    I was never happy with turned ebony. Very difficult to keep crisp edges on the reinforcing rings resulting in small nicks and the incredible black mess. If you continue to have failed pieces you may wish to consider turning boxwood or pear. After dyeing them you can't tell the difference and your lungs are much happier.
  15. dvm27
    Kind of like a low-tech steady rest for turning long pieces such as masts and spars.
  16. dvm27
    Best of luck from a fellow three-time sufferer Patrick. Passing a kidney stone is much more painful than passing a kid (statement verified by women, I would never make such a claim). You should try to incorporate your kidney stone (they're surprisingly small) into Majellan to make a really personal model.
  17. dvm27
    Looks great, Mike. Personally, I find the fairing process the most satisfying part of the build as the smooth hull emerges amidst the sawdust. I start with 80 grit rubber cemented onto a variety of shaped sanding sticks.
  18. dvm27
    Prices are indeed on the website "ordering" page http://www.admiraltymodels.com/Ordering.html
  19. dvm27
    The first two volumes of TFFM are a complete treatise on building a Swan class model. They are a step-by-step guide. They do not include the plans, which may be purchased from Admiralty Models. Volume Three is an photo companion to the first two books. Volume Four is the masting and rigging guide and it does complete masting and rigging illustrations for a Swan class model (or other sixth rate).
  20. dvm27
    Perhaps I missed it in your log but what did you use for caulking between the deck planks? Black paper? The effect is excellent!
  21. dvm27
    The tidiness of your workshop explains your meticulous attention to detail. If I were as organized as you I'd probably work at least 10% faster!
  22. dvm27
    On my first model I used CA to secure the knots. Twenty years later I note these areas are discolored and appear very brittle. I would not be surprised if the CA'd areas fracture at some point in the near future. I now use matte medium (per Harold Hahn's technique) or dilute PVA. Both work very well.
  23. dvm27
    For what it's worth I have the self centering chuck from Sherline and its worked very well for me. As long as the piece is secure in the chuck with a live center in tail stock you can easilyturn irregular pieces of stock material.
  24. dvm27
    You should sell the old ones on eBay!
  25. dvm27
    Lovely planking, Mike. I see you're using spacers between the planks. I look forward to seeing how you caulk them.

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