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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. enjoying your Swan cross-section. I think you'll enjoy the relatively simpler construction of the mid-ships area, starting with the V-shaped rabbet. And no spiling required later on during planking.
  2. Welcome back. Michael. We've missed your updates.
  3. Very happy to have found this log even as you have finished the model. Spectacular model and build photos, Nils!
  4. I sure hope everyone got to see those Jason! I've had a fascination for his clocks and watches ever since reading Longitute by David Sobel. A great read for anyone on this list. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/080271529X?keywords=longitude%20by%20David%20sobel&qid=1445883796&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
  5. Thanks for the photos Ryland. I immediatly recognized the beautiful model of Hannah, by William Wiseman, which won the Grand Award at the 1996 Mariner Museum Competition. I always wondered where it ended up. Was this one on display or relegated to a storage room? If the later - what a pity. Take a close look at those sails. They're made of wood.
  6. Really sorry I missed this one. Who will be the first to post photos?
  7. Beautiful work, Gaetan. Did you make a form tool for the reinforcing rings? Does your lathe have a digital readout for use when you are making repetitive cuts? Or are those wooden templates your hi-tech method for keeping all the cuts uniform?
  8. Lovely planking job, Ed. Sort of hard to know where to stop on this demonstration model. I wonder if you were tempted to complete the planking on the port side? As difficult as planking the stern curved area on your model was I'm wondering what sort of Herculean effort this task might have taken on the real ship!
  9. Wonderful metal and wood work in this installment. What blackening agent did you use? The results are very uniform.
  10. Beautiful work, Rekon. Just out of curiousity, what was the use of those two aft cabins? With those large knees there's not much room inside.
  11. "Missed it by that much" - Maxwell Smart Or maybe you Aussies never received "Get Smart" from the classic age of US television.
  12. I use Fiebings leather dye. It does a beautiful job but you need to be careful when applying as it penetrates very well. I usually stain pieces like wales off the model and touch them up after securing them in place. Their brown dye is perfect for blocks. You may also achieve a very nice black color, especially on brass, using black automotive primer. Several light coats fill in small gaps and leaves a nice smooth finish.
  13. I was never happy with turned ebony. Very difficult to keep crisp edges on the reinforcing rings resulting in small nicks and the incredible black mess. If you continue to have failed pieces you may wish to consider turning boxwood or pear. After dyeing them you can't tell the difference and your lungs are much happier.
  14. Kind of like a low-tech steady rest for turning long pieces such as masts and spars.
  15. Best of luck from a fellow three-time sufferer Patrick. Passing a kidney stone is much more painful than passing a kid (statement verified by women, I would never make such a claim). You should try to incorporate your kidney stone (they're surprisingly small) into Majellan to make a really personal model.
  16. Looks great, Mike. Personally, I find the fairing process the most satisfying part of the build as the smooth hull emerges amidst the sawdust. I start with 80 grit rubber cemented onto a variety of shaped sanding sticks.
  17. Prices are indeed on the website "ordering" page http://www.admiraltymodels.com/Ordering.html
  18. The first two volumes of TFFM are a complete treatise on building a Swan class model. They are a step-by-step guide. They do not include the plans, which may be purchased from Admiralty Models. Volume Three is an photo companion to the first two books. Volume Four is the masting and rigging guide and it does complete masting and rigging illustrations for a Swan class model (or other sixth rate).
  19. Perhaps I missed it in your log but what did you use for caulking between the deck planks? Black paper? The effect is excellent!
  20. The tidiness of your workshop explains your meticulous attention to detail. If I were as organized as you I'd probably work at least 10% faster!
  21. On my first model I used CA to secure the knots. Twenty years later I note these areas are discolored and appear very brittle. I would not be surprised if the CA'd areas fracture at some point in the near future. I now use matte medium (per Harold Hahn's technique) or dilute PVA. Both work very well.
  22. For what it's worth I have the self centering chuck from Sherline and its worked very well for me. As long as the piece is secure in the chuck with a live center in tail stock you can easilyturn irregular pieces of stock material.
  23. Lovely planking, Mike. I see you're using spacers between the planks. I look forward to seeing how you caulk them.
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